memphisbasshead Posted May 29, 2010 Report Posted May 29, 2010 what do you think will hit harder the 5 8's or the 3 12's? if i get the 3 12's i will eventually get a fourth one and if i get the 5 8's i will eventually buy 3 more. the amplifier i am using is a Kenwood eXcelon X1200M and it puts out about 1600 watts rms @ 1 ohm and 1200 watts rms @ 2 ohms. My Car Audio Setup: Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone) Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1) Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge Alternator: Stock 90 amp Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial Home Audio Setup: Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter) 2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears. Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985 Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993 Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me I do free box designs if anyone is interested
sebasstian Posted May 29, 2010 Report Posted May 29, 2010 i've got 12 of the 12's and these things beat off no power 12 RE audio X series 12's 4 gauge wiring to back batt (soon to be 0 gauge) 0 gauge from batt to amp kinetik 1800 in back clarion cx-200 HU SPL 3000 wired at 2 ohms 8 Re 6.5 full range speakers Re Xt 800.4 4 channel amplifier Autopager car alarm
memphisbasshead Posted May 29, 2010 Author Report Posted May 29, 2010 i've got 12 of the 12's and these things beat off no power so should i go with the 12's or the 8's? i think the 8's would look pretty damn cool My Car Audio Setup: Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone) Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1) Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge Alternator: Stock 90 amp Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial Home Audio Setup: Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter) 2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears. Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985 Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993 Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me I do free box designs if anyone is interested
AVY_TOTIN'_SLAM Posted May 29, 2010 Report Posted May 29, 2010 Whats powering em'? Need the details... But generally the cone area is a good rule to go by. BUT with the 8's you will sacrifice the LOW-LOWS. Toyota Avalon 5% Tint 6000k HID JVC AVX-720 HU iPhone 3g 2 Memphis 15-MCC5 Component Sets (Front Doors) 2 Memphis 15-MC52 Coaxial (Back Doors) 1 MTX 9500 15" Dual 4 Ohm Alpine MRP-F240 4 CH. 40 watts RMS (Doors) MTX 8100.1 Add Me On Facebook.
memphisbasshead Posted May 29, 2010 Author Report Posted May 29, 2010 8's for looks, 12's for sound. so go with the 12's if i wanna get loud? My Car Audio Setup: Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone) Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1) Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge Alternator: Stock 90 amp Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial Home Audio Setup: Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter) 2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears. Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985 Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993 Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me I do free box designs if anyone is interested
memphisbasshead Posted May 29, 2010 Author Report Posted May 29, 2010 Whats powering em'? Need the details... But generally the cone area is a good rule to go by. BUT with the 8's you will sacrifice the LOW-LOWS. i already said what was powering them My Car Audio Setup: Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone) Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1) Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge Alternator: Stock 90 amp Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial Home Audio Setup: Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter) 2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears. Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985 Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993 Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me I do free box designs if anyone is interested
AVY_TOTIN'_SLAM Posted May 29, 2010 Report Posted May 29, 2010 i already said what was powering them NICE EDIT BTW. The 8's ur gunna get into ohms load issues if you dont know what ur doin. I would go with the 12s. Whats the electrical look like? Any upgrades? As you will learn we are whores for that stuff on here. Toyota Avalon 5% Tint 6000k HID JVC AVX-720 HU iPhone 3g 2 Memphis 15-MCC5 Component Sets (Front Doors) 2 Memphis 15-MC52 Coaxial (Back Doors) 1 MTX 9500 15" Dual 4 Ohm Alpine MRP-F240 4 CH. 40 watts RMS (Doors) MTX 8100.1 Add Me On Facebook.
sebasstian Posted May 29, 2010 Report Posted May 29, 2010 i say go with the 8's they will be cool and if you tune it really low it will be insane. noone will believe there 8's. if you only get 3 of the 12's you have to wire them up or you'll give em too much juice and possibly blow them 12 RE audio X series 12's 4 gauge wiring to back batt (soon to be 0 gauge) 0 gauge from batt to amp kinetik 1800 in back clarion cx-200 HU SPL 3000 wired at 2 ohms 8 Re 6.5 full range speakers Re Xt 800.4 4 channel amplifier Autopager car alarm
memphisbasshead Posted May 29, 2010 Author Report Posted May 29, 2010 NICE EDIT BTW. The 8's ur gunna get into ohms load issues if you dont know what ur doin. I would go with the 12s. Whats the electrical look like? Any upgrades? As you will learn we are whores for that stuff on here. i've done the big 3 and i've got a 165 amp high output alternator and i'm runnin right at about 15.1 volts and its stable as hell. My Car Audio Setup: Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone) Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1) Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge Alternator: Stock 90 amp Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial Home Audio Setup: Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter) 2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears. Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985 Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993 Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me I do free box designs if anyone is interested
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