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Friends first build- Mods needed to 1200 watts rms.


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Well I believe my Buddy is wanting to put 2 optima red tops in back and eliminate the front battery as he does not have a battery box under the hood for it .I know factory for Focus is 4 gauge wires... now if he would use new wire and clean all the grounds and add new (same gauge) wire in place of the big 3 would it help?

hopeful noob

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he meant a new battery under the hood. that is the first step.

and this bugs me, so im going to say it

THE BIG 3 IS NOT NEEDED UNLESS A HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR IS RUNNING IN YOUR SYSTEM

THE BIG 3 IS NOT NEEDED UNLESS A HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR IS RUNNING IN YOUR SYSTEM

THE BIG 3 IS NOT NEEDED UNLESS A HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR IS RUNNING IN YOUR SYSTEM

you guys are passing along info that you "heard" but you have no concept on how electricity works.

MY recommendation for your friends system is upgraded battery under the hood. if he has a lot of voltage drop and issues of that nature, then he should upgrade his alternator to compensate for the amperage draw.

Honestly, while the Big 3 isnt "needed" it wont hurt, even if its in 4awg... ive noticed small gains in voltage by doing the big 3 on stock electrical... and when your trying to milk an electrical system for everything its got... every little bit helps, especially when your drawing more current than the alt can put out.... also helps on older vehicles where the connections could be corroded/dirty... i did the Big 3 on my 95 tacoma in 4awg hyperflex and went from 13.9 to 14.2 at idle....

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/79921-rogers-700-dream-car-update-page-17-a-wall/?p=2335774

93 Saturn SC2My system4 SA-15's Walled

2 Cerwin-Vega S2000's

3 Kinetik Hc2000's

Dual 200amp alts.

you guys done with the peepee touching contest or do I need to end it?

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Honestly, while the Big 3 isnt "needed" it wont hurt, even if its in 4awg... ive noticed small gains in voltage by doing the big 3 on stock electrical... and when your trying to milk an electrical system for everything its got... every little bit helps, especially when your drawing more current than the alt can put out.... also helps on older vehicles where the connections could be corroded/dirty... i did the Big 3 on my 95 tacoma in 4awg hyperflex and went from 13.9 to 14.2 at idle....

how much money did you spend on the wiring for it and the fuses? do you plan on keeping your stock alt forever?

i did the big 3 on my stock elecrical, but the benefits are marginal, at best, when you're not using a HO alt. you may have increased .2 or .3 volts at idle (which is one of the best big 3 results ive ever heard of) but your voltage is still dropping when the bass hits. am i right?

8 DC Level 4 M2 15s2 DC Audio 5ks26^2 clamshell tuned to 30hz9 Kinetik 1400sMechman externally reg'd 340 S seriesin a 99 Jeep Cherokee :DClick to see J00bles' Youtube Channel

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One thing i dont understand is why a fuse is needed, if a fuse was needed then on the paper that came with my H.O alt dont u think it would of said "The positive cable running from the alt to the positive on the battery must be fused" and going over my paper again i see nothing of the sorts. im pretty sure if there was a chance of something bad happening it would say that this is a "must do".

EDIT: and refering to the big 3 i was stating doing it to help with the flow of electricity, yes the alts only gonna be able to push out so much but at least its gonna be able to do it with out some little puny stock wire getting hot when hes pulling lots of current.

Edited by cubs_fan0718

TDHRIP_zps8bedfde5.jpg

06 Impala SS
Kenwood Excelon DDX593

Ampere Audio 150.4

Ampere Audio 5K
1 XS D4700 (front)
Mechman 320a Alt. w/ Big 3

Lots of Second Skin Damplifier

Under Construction for 2017

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ok for a start, the red top optima's are for cranking and starting power, they have VERY poor ah ratings for car audio use... why you're saying there's a need for multiple red top optima's mystifies me... the yellow or blue top optima's are what you want if you're going down the route of using optima batteries, also the "big 3" may not be necessary, nut you're damn well going to want to upgrade you engine bay grounds... to a minimum of at least the same gauge as your power cable, i generally run double the size of my power just to be on the safe side, so if you have a single run of 1/0ga for your power connections, i'd run 2x 1/0ga grounds... tho you could get away with a single 1/0ga, but over kill is good!

and why you'd need a new starter? that's just beyond comprehension...

as for fusing, alt to battery is not 100% necessary, but sometimes things go wrong, and it's good to be on the safe side!

Edited by lunchbox.inc

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fusing is not 100% needed, but imagine what would happen if your wire shorted out... the alt would likely burn up, the battery will discharge hundreds of amps into the ground network of your car and blow everyfuse you have, while possibly melting your harnesses.... leading to an electrical fire that will burn your vehicle up in a heartbeat.

i'd rather spend the $25 and save my ass on that one..

Edited by J00bles

8 DC Level 4 M2 15s2 DC Audio 5ks26^2 clamshell tuned to 30hz9 Kinetik 1400sMechman externally reg'd 340 S seriesin a 99 Jeep Cherokee :DClick to see J00bles' Youtube Channel

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