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We're here hooking up 3 XS Power batteries. 1 2700 under the hood, and 2 3100's in the back and there is a HUGE debate over running 0 gauge grounds from the front battery to the rear battery. On one hand people say grounds are supposed to be short as possible and ground everything to the frame using as short of possible wire. On the other hand everyone on this forum seems to run multiple runs of Power and grounds from the front battery, or batteries to the rear. What exactly is the reason for that?

Bone Stock 2006 Dodge Magnum SRT-8

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Copper wire conducts better than a steel frame, so full 0g runs will be better in theory. Personally, I think if you have the extra wire available, do runs from front to back, AND ground to the chassis in back. If not, as long as you find a good spot to ground in the back, it will work.

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Rule of thumb:

If you have the wire, ground to your front battery.

If you do not, then you are fine to do multiple *good* grounds in the rear.

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1997 Chevrolet Cavalier Two 12" DC Audio XL M2'sCrescendo Audio BC5500d

Current Scores: 150+ out the Trunk

On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said:

Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not.

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I have 4 runs of 1/0 to the rear.... 2(+) 2(-) just because....

And then the sub amp is probably 6 inches from the rear (-) of the batt bank.

I dont have ANY noise whatsoever.

I say if you keep the (-) and (+) short GOING INTO the amp you should be fine....... But thats just MY opinion

TeamDeadlyHertz-smokeumtires.png
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The energy entering the car through the ground has to end up at the alt (its a circuit!) So it will either go into the car and through the engine ground into the alt and back at the battery or use the 0ga, whichever is more efficient. I do both.

detail.gifI am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. detail.gif

uhoh_45 said:
dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew
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  • 1 month later...

i thought that the reason people run more than one run on the positive side of wire from alt to front batt then to rear batt is based on ampreage and how much is demanded. because on one run of zero gauge wire it can only draw up to 300 amp's and that's if the wire count is up there like 4-5 thousand thread count and if your count is less then you probably draw less. so if your amp's require more ampreage then you need multiple run's to feed it, plz some one with more knowledge than i do plz chime in and correct what i say cuz i know it's something like this and if no one does than i hope this helps

alohaz bradda j

Edited by braddaj81
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that is correct about the amperage. i had runs of negative front to back now i just have 5 positive runs front to back and 6 0g grounds in the front from alternator bracket and block directly to frame, then 6 grounds in the rear from batteries to frame. with no problems. imo try your grounds at different points and watch your voltage drop at different points and choose the best. this is what i did i have a stinger volt meter on my back batteries this helps alot. and my hoe didnt like certain ground points, so i tested and tried various combinations till i came up with what i have know.

TEAM DC AUDIO

VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop

HEADUNIT:alpine 9886

PREAMP:arcaudio

FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door

KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4

REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s

HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors

SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV

SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s

ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket

WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back

BATTERIES:6-d1400s

TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.

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