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Noobtastic14

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Noobtastic14 last won the day on August 17 2014

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About Noobtastic14

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    USAF
  • Birthday 12/26/1988

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    saxwonder05
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    saxophonewonder2002

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    Hampton Roads Va.

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  1. Maaaaaaaan shit changes so much but some of it hasn't changed at all. I really underestimated how difficult this would be! I doubt it, I'm in Phoenix now though so maybe a trip into socal if anything
  2. I've been out of the game for several years now- I rebuilt my Neo wall in 2014 and about a year ago sold it to another military guy because family life has me pretty tied down. My brother lives near me now in PHX and does EDM style music and asked me to outfit his Diesel Golf. This is a pretty straight forward build all things considered, its mostly finished minus the raw wood box. I started with gear x2 DC lvl 3 12s x1 DC 2k x1 DC 90.4 x4 CDT 6.5 Components x1 Rockford Fosgate 360.3 for OEM integration Wires/Accessories from SHCA The first few steps involved getting the new battery and terminals in place, as well as door panels and wire work. The make or break for this car is trying to come up with decent sound while retaining the OEM source unit. On this car, the HU sends full range signal to all speakers and they each have a small passive xover element. The rear doors were pretty straight forward because I am not running an active setup so it was a simple speaker swap and test. The front doors however split off to the A pillars at some point so I ended up running dedicated wires to the 360 to keep everything crossed. The source unit is actually in the glove box, so I added the 360 with it for simplicity of wiring. I get real tired of the solder, wires, etc doing that kind of work. Once it was wrapped up I could go ham on some subwoofer action. Box is 3cuft 45sqin of port @34- at this point I wasn't sure if I wanted it up firing or rear firing. The rear deck covers the speakers while he is parked or driving which is nice. We've been tuning with the 360 for several days now and I think we have it dialed in pretty good! He is very happy and I forgot how therapeutic this whole process can be. first order to finish was 3 weeks, uncle cut the check haha Oh yeah, and after the first song or two the windshield broke at the rear view mount- I advised him not to reglue the mirror after he gets the windshield replaced this week. Thanks for looking! I really do miss this place sometimes.
  3. I did some demos today and some people noticed and thought it was funny. -Drew
  4. Here is the street bike Sometimes I take it camping. And heres the dirt ride- Thats a bit of a lie because its fully street legal! -Drew
  5. This has been a week of maintenance on the car. In September I'm moving to Phoenix and want to make the beater a little more road worthy. It's got all new shocks and stiff rear Springs (too stiff! They're getting trimmed) And I've had horrible body roll for as long as I can remember. I've replaced the worn front sway bar bushings and installed a rear sway bar from an Integra gsr I'll add more photos when the vented brembo rotors and ceramic pads get in. -Drew
  6. It works great at shows because I bump on the temp while demoing and raise up the temp- then switch on the cooling and it drops at roughly 2 degrees per minute until I want to demo again. I leave it off while actually demoing because its another ~7A of draw that I just don't need when the alt is trying to put out power at ~180*F operating temp(case). -Drew
  7. Today's number's- Started at 113*F 10 minute drive to Chipotle at about 80% output 103*F on arrival 105*F when we left and (after another 10 minute drive at ~80% output) 97* when we got back to the house. With nothing but heat from the sun and heat from the amps the subwoofers dropped 16 degrees with liquid cooling. -Drew
  8. Thanks! Yes this is exactly how the cooling system on your car works, its just a much smaller scale. -Drew
  9. Phew! Luckily the car was only down for a few days. I had a local shop weld together the bracket as well as welding in a support to reinforce the joint in the future. Also, I lowered the belt tension a bit. I had a bit of belt squeal and tightened BOTH belts when really it was only the small alt belt that needed adjusting. The result was an excessive pressure on the bracket that caused the crack (or so I'm assuming.) Either way- its back up and running! I think August 15 is the next show... -Drew
  10. I ended up with some serious voltage drop towards the end of the show last weekend. At the time I attributed it to a hot stretchy belt combined with an alt that was running 30 degrees higher than average. Turns out- My quarter inch angle iron bracket broke!! I'm looking into places to get it welded back up and maybe a bit of an extra support welded in or something. -Drew
  11. So field testing the wall has had a nice positive result. The show on Saturday was pretty brutal for heat and it was affecting all the equipment as well as the people. I did some demoing and then measured Ambient outside temp: 97*F Ambient box temp: 110*F Woofer Motor inside the pole: 125*F Woofer motor outside the pole: 115*F Copper tube (water temp): 100*F I took a break and sat in the AC and played two games of boom beach (5-7min) and then rechecked the temps Ambient outside temp: 97*F Ambient box temp: 110*F Woofer Motor inside the pole: 115*F Woofer motor outside the pole: 105*F Copper tube (water temp): 100*F Ideally 110 degrees is where I'm comfortable playing them at demo outputs and the cooling setup shows that on a very hot day the water will bring the woofers back to safe levels just minutes after I finish demoing. The initial positive results are giving me more motivation to address the heat issue on the amps. I'm currently wired very low and create an awful lot of heat back there. Thanks for looking. -Drew *BTW with all the hot gear she did 153.4
  12. Liquid Cooling system update for the build log: With the Floor removed, the water system sits in front of the spare tire and under the back of the subwoofer box. The tube on the left is hot water entering from the woofers, to the right is the water being pumped out and down to the radiator. The hose in front shows me how low the water level is View of the radiator, radiator fan, and feed tube from the pump above. The radiator sits at an angle and does not sit below the exhuast/body but it does sit just below the plastic The radiator is sold as a dirtbike radiator, so it comes with a protective grill. Its also inside of the rear tire and out of the direct dirt/water/rock spray. The woofers are wrapped in 7ft of copper piping and coated in Heat conductive silicone. To keep its shape and contact with the motor, its wrapped in stretchy rubber tape and a few plastic zip ties. I measure the motors with the shown traditional thermometers and use the IR thermometer for measuring temp within the gap. Thanks for looking- -Drew
  13. It will probably take several weeks to really calculate hard data for the cooling as well as calculating how fast it will cool. Yesterday was a pretty hard trial run for the system. I traveled 560mi and did a lot of demos plus competing. I did notice something mildly alarming throughout the day- the passenger side woofer was reading ~5*F hotter than the drivers side woofer. This was alarming because a blown coil doesn't generate heat... BUT- after some investigating on the drive home I found a minor issue in the feed line to the passenger side woofer that was diverting more water to the drivers side and very little circulated through the passenger side. After discussing the system with some people, I think I will change the tubing to being in series rather than parallel to double the flow rate and ensure I don't get unbalanced flow again. Minus a few leaky spots that got patched up and addressing the flow rate issue this system is proving effective. I will continue to log and test and eventually design a heat exchanger to hopefully cool the amps as well! As always, thank you for looking. -Drew
  14. Good day! Im clocking 500mi today in my rolling death trap of a car haha -Drew
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