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DD M3a trouble shoot...


jdubs

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Posted

K so I FINALLY got my M3a in... hooked it up... and I'm kinda disappointed. The output doesn't rise steady at all... Like at vol. 25, I can barely hear it. At 30, its freaking loud. lol So I was going through DD's troubleshoot and it says for poor bass response...

"Pls check speaker cables and reverse polarity of one channel"

Umm... if the coils are wired in opposite polarity is this what it does? I've never had a weird output like that.

Also, when I shut the car off I get a kind of noise from back there... what is that caused by? Never had this problem either

Kenwood DDX 514

DD M3a

DD 9512G

RF 600.4

RF power series 6x8s

lots of zero ga.

Whats coming: Kenwood Excelon screen, DD high end comps, DD 4ch, XS batteries

Posted

Okay unplugged the bass knob and it sounds a million times better at low volumes... Still have this weird noise coming when its turned off. It's strange as hell. Kinda sounds like a cartoon laser gun going off or something.

Nobody has any ideas?

Kenwood DDX 514

DD M3a

DD 9512G

RF 600.4

RF power series 6x8s

lots of zero ga.

Whats coming: Kenwood Excelon screen, DD high end comps, DD 4ch, XS batteries

Posted

One of your RCAs has a bad ground wire. Or something in your signal path has no ground or a bad ground.

It's almost always a ground thing when you get that nasty BLOOOOOORP sound coming from a class D amp.

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

Posted

One of your RCAs has a bad ground wire. Or something in your signal path has no ground or a bad ground.

It's almost always a ground thing when you get that nasty BLOOOOOORP sound coming from a class D amp.

Alright.. thats kinda what i figured. I just don't see how that could happen since all i Did was pull out the old and put in the new. I'll check it out. Thanks for the reply I don't know why nobody else could help me out:/

Kenwood DDX 514

DD M3a

DD 9512G

RF 600.4

RF power series 6x8s

lots of zero ga.

Whats coming: Kenwood Excelon screen, DD high end comps, DD 4ch, XS batteries

Posted

Had this happen to me with my m4s it was rcas. if one is bad you will get half the out put. at first i thought it was one of my subs heating up and cutting out cause of a bad voicecoil. but tested it and it was rcas. are you coming straight from deck?

TEAM DC AUDIO

VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop

HEADUNIT:alpine 9886

PREAMP:arcaudio

FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door

KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4

REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s

HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors

SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV

SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s

ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket

WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back

BATTERIES:6-d1400s

TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.

Posted

Had this happen to me with my m4s it was rcas. if one is bad you will get half the out put. at first i thought it was one of my subs heating up and cutting out cause of a bad voicecoil. but tested it and it was rcas. are you coming straight from deck?

Yeah. Its not the rca's... I fixed the output side of it. The noise its making on turn off is a different situation. The amp is wired directly to my rear battery, using orion zero ga. and the factory ends they put on it. The battery itself was grounded by sanding and everything and hasn't been touched in months. Is there any way it could be the remote wire? thats the only weak link in the system i can think of... maybe its dirty or not big enough or something? its irritating as hell. I hate not being able to figure stuff out lol

Kenwood DDX 514

DD M3a

DD 9512G

RF 600.4

RF power series 6x8s

lots of zero ga.

Whats coming: Kenwood Excelon screen, DD high end comps, DD 4ch, XS batteries

Posted

Okay I just got the message from DD saying that the laser noise I'm having is caused from "ultra low voltage" which is kinda weird to me considering that I have zero headlight dimming and the amp never went into protect or anything. Its only been hooked up for a couple days and starting doing it the first time I hooked it up. My rockford never had any problems. Possibly manufacturers defect?

Kenwood DDX 514

DD M3a

DD 9512G

RF 600.4

RF power series 6x8s

lots of zero ga.

Whats coming: Kenwood Excelon screen, DD high end comps, DD 4ch, XS batteries

Posted

Got a multimeter? Check your voltage at the amps terminals.

A pretty common one is if you pop one of the 2 fuses (you do have 2, right?) on the power feed from the front battery to the back, then the rear battery goes flat because it's no longer being charged. You don't notice because the car still starts and everything off the front batt runs great, but the back batt is at like 10.9v...

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

Posted

Got a multimeter? Check your voltage at the amps terminals.

A pretty common one is if you pop one of the 2 fuses (you do have 2, right?) on the power feed from the front battery to the back, then the rear battery goes flat because it's no longer being charged. You don't notice because the car still starts and everything off the front batt runs great, but the back batt is at like 10.9v...

My batts were uninstalled when we tested them. Everything is resting at 12.8, so none of my batts are junk. Tomorrow we'll test it with the system full tilt and see what the amp is seeing. The fuse in between the batts is fine. I haven't been able to find another 300A fuse for the rear lol. Its on its way though

Kenwood DDX 514

DD M3a

DD 9512G

RF 600.4

RF power series 6x8s

lots of zero ga.

Whats coming: Kenwood Excelon screen, DD high end comps, DD 4ch, XS batteries

Posted

thats weird. you said you had your batterys out? double check all your connections, and the m3 will draw way more power than your rockford. when you start drawing 300amps plus it will find your weakess link. even connectors play a role in it. i would put a stinger volt meter wired to my rear batteries so i know voltage at amps. or wire it too your amps power connections. its a cheap way to save your amps, and narrow down problems. in my opinion though i think something might be wrong with the amp

TEAM DC AUDIO

VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop

HEADUNIT:alpine 9886

PREAMP:arcaudio

FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door

KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4

REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s

HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors

SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV

SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s

ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket

WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back

BATTERIES:6-d1400s

TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.

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