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I was just wondering if it would even work. I know that it wouldnt be very logical for subs with larger excursions, but for smaller subs that dont have huge excursion, it seems possible. But would it be probable? As in, what would the results sound be? Ive seen the concept in computer speaker systems, but those subs are tiny.

Also, while I got y'all reading this, has anyone ever heard of a 14" passive radiator? I acquired a pair stereo towers that had all the components in them except the very bottom which is just a massive hole measuring 14". You can see mounting holes and everything. And there arent any additional wires inside the box that would go to a sub if it was there at one point.

1999 GMC Suburban SLT
No system planned just yet.

Look at "hate" spelled backwards. It spells "e-tah." For example, if you hate me you can e-tah dick.
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Sure it isn't a 15" PR? It probably is, hole cutout sizes are always weird.

Um, of course it will work. How good it works though? Try it and tell us! I'd be interested to know. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't work to good, apart from having a nice flat, solid thing to load off.

BTW, down firing can be used for any speaker, you could do it with an AA SMD 18" if you wanted. It sure as heck won't be practical though, you'd have to have it a good 8"s off the ground for it to breathe and bolt it to the floor so it doesn't go walkabout. It would make one heck of a home theater sub though.

My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build

This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.

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Well I'd hate to put out some money for 2 15" PR and they be too big.

An AA SMD 18" does sound like it would make one hell of a home theater setup, but I definitely dont have that kind of money.

And if I were to try it, I'd need help with the box. Never made a ported box, just sealed. I dont necessarily want loud, I want depth. I'd rather cause an earthquake before I cause hearing loss. And I've heard that fire down port forward can do that.

Edited by Parentnoia

1999 GMC Suburban SLT
No system planned just yet.

Look at "hate" spelled backwards. It spells "e-tah." For example, if you hate me you can e-tah dick.
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Well I have a total of three subs I'd like to try this with, one 10 (that is in need of severe repair) for a home theater and 2 12s that I wanna use in my car. Problem is that I only have about 13" for top to bottom clearance.

1999 GMC Suburban SLT
No system planned just yet.

Look at "hate" spelled backwards. It spells "e-tah." For example, if you hate me you can e-tah dick.
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Well I'd hate to put out some money for 2 15" PR and they be too big.

An AA SMD 18" does sound like it would make one hell of a home theater setup, but I definitely dont have that kind of money.

And if I were to try it, I'd need help with the box. Never made a ported box, just sealed. I dont necessarily want loud, I want depth. I'd rather cause an earthquake before I cause hearing loss. And I've heard that fire down port forward can do that.

You can always cut the holes in the box bigger? Works every time! haha

Yeah, I was just using it as an example. If you were making a home theater box for a SMD 18", you'd tune to ~15hz, maybe 12hz for some real lows. And people on here say 28hz is a low tuning, :lol:

Well I have a total of three subs I'd like to try this with, one 10 (that is in need of severe repair) for a home theater and 2 12s that I wanna use in my car. Problem is that I only have about 13" for top to bottom clearance.

Tune the 10" as low as you can for home theater, the lower the better, that means you won't need to put a subsonic filter on it. 13"s is fine, I'm guessing that these subs are pretty standard, so they probably have a mounting depth of 6" or so, add 2" or so for the wood, 3" for space under the box and it should fit.

Edited by bassl0va

My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build

This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.

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Well I have a total of three subs I'd like to try this with, one 10 (that is in need of severe repair) for a home theater and 2 12s that I wanna use in my car. Problem is that I only have about 13" for top to bottom clearance.

Tune the 10" as low as you can for home theater, the lower the better, that means you won't need to put a subsonic filter on it. 13"s is fine, I'm guessing that these subs are pretty standard, so they probably have a mounting depth of 6" or so, add 2" or so for the wood, 3" for space under the box and it should fit.

Well the 10 is an OLD MTX Terminator. Paper cone, cloth/foam surround. It's current condition is dented dustcap, surround torn in areas, rusty magnet...

And so as for the 12s, 8in height before putting on the additional 3in and I have ~30in of width. All I dont have is depth and port size, any suggestions?

And as for the home theater towers I have, I need to get new surrounds on the two 10s in them. And what effect does a dented dustcap have?

1999 GMC Suburban SLT
No system planned just yet.

Look at "hate" spelled backwards. It spells "e-tah." For example, if you hate me you can e-tah dick.
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Well I have a total of three subs I'd like to try this with, one 10 (that is in need of severe repair) for a home theater and 2 12s that I wanna use in my car. Problem is that I only have about 13" for top to bottom clearance.

Tune the 10" as low as you can for home theater, the lower the better, that means you won't need to put a subsonic filter on it. 13"s is fine, I'm guessing that these subs are pretty standard, so they probably have a mounting depth of 6" or so, add 2" or so for the wood, 3" for space under the box and it should fit.

Well the 10 is an OLD MTX Terminator. Paper cone, cloth/foam surround. It's current condition is dented dustcap, surround torn in areas, rusty magnet...

And so as for the 12s, 8in height before putting on the additional 3in and I have ~30in of width. All I dont have is depth and port size, any suggestions?

And as for the home theater towers I have, I need to get new surrounds on the two 10s in them. And what effect does a dented dustcap have?

I think you can fit it all in. How much volume do you have?

For bass and with what you will be using it for, no worries. If you have a dented tweeter it would screw up the dispersion and probably a bunch of other stuff. And if you are doing extreme SPL kinda stuff the pressure in the box would probably destroy the dustcap pretty quick. There are videos where people burp their subs and the dustcaps invert from the pressure. With what you are doing it shouldn't matter though.

Ways to fix dustcap: vacuum it out with a vacuum cleaner or put a stick up the pole vent and push it out from behind or cut the dustcap off and reshape/replace it.

Edited by bassl0va

My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build

This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.

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Volume in my trunk? I have a small-ish trunk. But I cant necessarily build this box exclusively for my trunk. Im being forced to pull it out in March cause da wifey dont want too much bump in the ride once our kid gets here. These are more like ideas for later, once we get a second vehicle for the family. That's when I'll take the time to do the serious mods to the mobile. Plus I'll need the trunk space for the baby stuff... And I already dont have much trunk... I'll probably wind up just pulling out my subs and connecting my components to my 4 channel and calling it good for a bit.

I'm hoping to be able to acquire a new ride by the end of 2011.

1999 GMC Suburban SLT
No system planned just yet.

Look at "hate" spelled backwards. It spells "e-tah." For example, if you hate me you can e-tah dick.
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