dereileak Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding? The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truedef Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding? The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine ok, so lets make sure i am making these connections right in my head. +starter wire from my truck gets spliced in with the Blue/Black wire from chall. the white black from chall goes to pin 87 of relay 12v from 5 pin conn. goes to pin 86 of relay i split the 4th pin over on the 5 pin conn. and wire it up with pins 30 and 87? where do i wire pin 85? and where do i wire the 2nd pin on the 5 pin conn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 that should at least explain the relay part of it 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding? The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine ok, so lets make sure i am making these connections right in my head. +starter wire from my truck gets spliced in with the Blue/Black wire from chall. Correct, and it goes to pin 2 , dont run the starter wire from the remote starter to this pin, just use a thin wire from pin 2 to go and tap into the starter wire, as the starter wire has to go to a thick wire in the ignition harness the white black from chall goes to pin 87 of relay Correct 12v from 5 pin conn. goes to pin 86 of relay Correct i split the 4th pin over on the 5 pin conn. and wire it up with pins 30 and 87? where do i wire pin 85? there should be a blue/white wire from the remote start for this wire to 85, or use the solid blue wire (both known as status output) if your going to do rear defrost use the solid blue wire, as the blue/white is used for rear defrost and where do i wire the 2nd pin on the 5 pin conn. thats to the starter wire I am going to get going to bed, I will check on here tomorrow, do you have a digital multimeter that you can test these wires with? 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truedef Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding? The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine ok, so lets make sure i am making these connections right in my head. +starter wire from my truck gets spliced in with the Blue/Black wire from chall. Correct, and it goes to pin 2 , dont run the starter wire from the remote starter to this pin, just use a thin wire from pin 2 to go and tap into the starter wire, as the starter wire has to go to a thick wire in the ignition harness the white black from chall goes to pin 87 of relay Correct 12v from 5 pin conn. goes to pin 86 of relay Correct i split the 4th pin over on the 5 pin conn. and wire it up with pins 30 and 87? where do i wire pin 85? there should be a blue/white wire from the remote start for this wire to 85, or use the solid blue wire (both known as status output) if your going to do rear defrost use the solid blue wire, as the blue/white is used for rear defrost and where do i wire the 2nd pin on the 5 pin conn. thats to the starter wire I am going to get going to bed, I will check on here tomorrow, do you have a digital multimeter that you can test these wires with? yes,i have a multimeter. how will this come in handy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding? The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine ok, so lets make sure i am making these connections right in my head. +starter wire from my truck gets spliced in with the Blue/Black wire from chall. Correct, and it goes to pin 2 , dont run the starter wire from the remote starter to this pin, just use a thin wire from pin 2 to go and tap into the starter wire, as the starter wire has to go to a thick wire in the ignition harness the white black from chall goes to pin 87 of relay Correct 12v from 5 pin conn. goes to pin 86 of relay Correct i split the 4th pin over on the 5 pin conn. and wire it up with pins 30 and 87? where do i wire pin 85? there should be a blue/white wire from the remote start for this wire to 85, or use the solid blue wire (both known as status output) if your going to do rear defrost use the solid blue wire, as the blue/white is used for rear defrost and where do i wire the 2nd pin on the 5 pin conn. thats to the starter wire I am going to get going to bed, I will check on here tomorrow, do you have a digital multimeter that you can test these wires with? yes,i have a multimeter. how will this come in handy? check everywhere you tap into so you do not damage them, with the exception of the mux and data wires which you can not test, goodnight 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truedef Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding? The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine ok, so lets make sure i am making these connections right in my head. +starter wire from my truck gets spliced in with the Blue/Black wire from chall. Correct, and it goes to pin 2 , dont run the starter wire from the remote starter to this pin, just use a thin wire from pin 2 to go and tap into the starter wire, as the starter wire has to go to a thick wire in the ignition harness the white black from chall goes to pin 87 of relay Correct 12v from 5 pin conn. goes to pin 86 of relay Correct i split the 4th pin over on the 5 pin conn. and wire it up with pins 30 and 87? where do i wire pin 85? there should be a blue/white wire from the remote start for this wire to 85, or use the solid blue wire (both known as status output) if your going to do rear defrost use the solid blue wire, as the blue/white is used for rear defrost and where do i wire the 2nd pin on the 5 pin conn. thats to the starter wire I am going to get going to bed, I will check on here tomorrow, do you have a digital multimeter that you can test these wires with? yes,i have a multimeter. how will this come in handy? check everywhere you tap into so you do not damage them, with the exception of the mux and data wires which you can not test, goodnight Do I need a 180ohm resistor in line with the mux and the relay? Because bulldog security .com say I need one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding? The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine ok, so lets make sure i am making these connections right in my head. +starter wire from my truck gets spliced in with the Blue/Black wire from chall. Correct, and it goes to pin 2 , dont run the starter wire from the remote starter to this pin, just use a thin wire from pin 2 to go and tap into the starter wire, as the starter wire has to go to a thick wire in the ignition harness the white black from chall goes to pin 87 of relay Correct 12v from 5 pin conn. goes to pin 86 of relay Correct i split the 4th pin over on the 5 pin conn. and wire it up with pins 30 and 87? where do i wire pin 85? there should be a blue/white wire from the remote start for this wire to 85, or use the solid blue wire (both known as status output) if your going to do rear defrost use the solid blue wire, as the blue/white is used for rear defrost and where do i wire the 2nd pin on the 5 pin conn. thats to the starter wire I am going to get going to bed, I will check on here tomorrow, do you have a digital multimeter that you can test these wires with? yes,i have a multimeter. how will this come in handy? check everywhere you tap into so you do not damage them, with the exception of the mux and data wires which you can not test, goodnight Do I need a 180ohm resistor in line with the mux and the relay? Because bulldog security .com say I need one. mux wire shouldn't, follow the instructions above, ill look at the wiring info quick while I am in class 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truedef Posted January 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 anything new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 you are going to need at least 2 more relays to do this install, I would pick up 4 or 5, you can get them cheap on ebay 12volts lt. blue/red (2A) + ignition harness Starter dk. green/yellow + ign harn or starter button (SRT-10) Second Starter purple/brown - ignition harness Notes: The second starter wire is negative trigger thru an 180 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. Refer to DirectFax document 1084 for wiring information. Ignition pink/white + ignition harness Second Ignition N/A Third Ignition N/A Accessory same as second starter wire - ignition harness Notes: The accessory wire is negative trigger thru a 610 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. Refer to DirectFax document 1084 for wiring information. Second Accessory N/A Keysense N/A Power Lock purple/dk. green - DKP or cluster, sml gry plug, pin 3 Notes: Lock is negative trigger thru an 820 ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays. Can also use Directed 456L interface module. Power Unlock same as power lock wire Lock Motor lt. green 5wi DKP or cluster, white plug, pin 10 Unlock Motor tan/lt. green 5wi DKP or cluster, white plug, pin 1 Parking Lights+ white/yel (L), white/gray ® + harness at top of driver fender Parking Lights- white/lt. green - sw or cluster, sml gry plug, pin 5 Notes: Parking lights are negative trigger thru a 1130 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. Hazards white/orange - sw or cluster, sml gry plug, pin 8 Notes: Hazards are negative trigger thru a 120 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. Turn Signal(L) wht/lt grn (F), wht/dk grn ® + harness at top of driver fender Turn Signal® white/tan (F), white/yel ® + harness at top of driver fender Reverse Light white/lt. green + harness at top of driver fender Door Trigger see notes - each kick or cluster, lrg gray plug Notes: The LF door is purple in pin 1. The RF door is purple/white in pin 4. The LR door is purple/orange or purple/gray in pin 2. The RR door is purple/yellow or tan/yellow in pin 3. Use all four wires and diode isolate each wire from each other and the instrument cluster. See DirectFax document 1076 for wiring information. Dome Supervision yellow/lt. blue + A pillar or cluster, wht plg, pin 21 Trunk/Hatch Pin N/A Hood Pin N/A Trunk/Hatch Release N/A Power Sliding Door N/A Factory Alarm Arm factory remote only Factory Alarm Disarm factory remote only Disarm No Unlock with ignition and Sentry Key Tachometer dk. blue/gray ac PCM, black/orange plug, pin 34 Notes: The PCM is on the passenger side firewall. The black/orange plug is the second plug down from the top. On SRT-10 models, the tach wire is in the top black plug, pin 18. On diesel models, the tach wire is at the ECM on the lower driver side of the engine, front 60 pin plug, pin 24, or at the camshaft position sensor just left of the ECM, in a 3 pin plug. On gas models, can also go to any ignition coil or fuel injector and use the wire that is NOT brown/white. Wait to start see DirectFax document 1091 Brake Wire white/tan + brake pedal switch Parking Brake dk. green/white - sw or cluster, lrg gry plug, pin 22 Horn Trigger dk. green/purple - sw or cluster, lrg gry plug, pin 14 this is how you do the accessory wire and starter wire I beleive, I will have to double check when I am more awake 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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