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CFD

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  1. I've got to build the pictured box before I decide what to do with the design. It's for GRS 12sw-4 drivers isobaric. The baffle is meant to hold the two drivers and then be bolted into the enclosure. Two ports on each side of the driver. It's supposed to be sort of a horn as well for projecting sound out doors. I definitely have not modeled it in Hornresp or anything else besides WinISD and I don't know how to. The 12sw-4, I think, has the same motor/magnet as the 10sw-4 yet more cone area so it sort of sucks because it still needs an uber huge enclosure to hit those very low notes. This box is tuned to 23Hz and 4 cubes volume. Here's a design I released. It's for two 12" drivers ~2.5 cubes ~33Hz tuning.
  2. I used half inch thick plexi on one of my boxes but the power the guy was sending to the subs was about 2-3000 Watts, not 8k lol. Plexiglass is pretty damn strong IMO, more so than MDF by a long way, probably many types of plywood too.
  3. You have so much room. If it were me, I would be building a killer series tuned 6th for that bandwidth! 4th orders are good too. You're going to love it
  4. I used 98sq. inches of port on a 9.6 ish (after baskets volume) box for some kicker CVX subwoofers. It seemed to work great for the guy. I think people get a little too upset over port area particularly in car systems and even more particularly in trunk cars. If it's even close to proper, never going to hear port noise over the subwoofers/mids/tweeters. That guy's system was the loudest I've personally heard so far. I also think people forget that there's always a space constraint with cars/trucks. Big ports are long ports and big long ports are transmission lines, or something. I found that out when I built my mega oversized port box with 100 sq. in. of port area for a single 12" I agree a bit about Kicker products. They're good for sure, but I generally can find something I like better for the price of the Kicker product. The manuals and availability of them are really good, though.
  5. One of the oddest set ups I've seen. You're only getting half of your output into the cab that way, right?
  6. I understand that thing better now. I see what it does. Just seemed like some scam nonsense when I first looked into it. Also, it just didn't seem to do anything in this guy's set up. His install had some little problems that made it confusing. First off was that his head unit was set to high pass the subs at like 80Hz and it took me a minute to figure that out. Then, plainly, I had no idea what the Epicenter was or what it was doing
  7. Made this box design up today for a couple of the 10SW-4 subwoofers after seeing Toid's video of these drivers. Made for isobaric loading. Has a horn situation on it. 2.84 cubes and 25.7Hz tuning before the basket displacement. F3 around 21Hz.
  8. I still need to get a router because I totally feel you about the jigsaw cutouts. Never quite perfect. Been good enough for me for quite a while, though, and once the driver is in it's not noticeable. I can't be a perfectionist or I'll go insane
  9. You can get a circular saw that's adjustable for cutting 45s. It's what I do now
  10. Simple Transmission Line For Lower Power 12 Inch Subwoofers
  11. Box Design for 2 Sundown ZV5 18's 14.25 cubes after displacement and 29-30Hz tuning 48Wx28Dx24H inch external dimensions.
  12. We got the Epicenter figured out and I learned more about it. It actually works for what it's for, just hard to get a bearing on exactly what it does which is annoying for me. Oh well. Two more boxes for your bass wumpers to burr some womps or something. Single 18" 7 cubes, 34Hz. Fits in older Ford Explorers. The early 2000's ones. https://youtu.be/DXxOXha7Hgc Quad Kicker 12" box... or any other 12" subs that it's right for. 9.95 cu. ft. 33Hz. Fits older Escalade. https://youtu.be/o88oK5NN7Tk My GW-124 in my truck and yes it is extremely sloppy, no I do not care. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4edvSXAU9Y
  13. Also I just want to make a little note that, for my area, I seem to be better than other installers/builders simply for not being a scammer. The last guy that came through for that box had someone else helping him out before and they kind of seemed to take advantage of him. He had 4 of those Boss Phantom 1150 Watt subs not knowing they weren't rated accurately, same with his Hifonics amp. Who ever set up his radio also had a high pass set to like 80 Hz on his subwoofer out which I couldn't figure out for a little while since I wasn't familiar with the radio. Then he also had one of those "Epicenter" audio filter things on it which I really couldn't figure out what it did and seemed like a gimmick. Ended up bypassing it while trying to figure things out and it seemed better without it. Then, after all of that, he had prefab boxes made from 5/8 MDF that were too small for the subwoofers he was originally intending on using. He had me build the box for Kicker CVX 12's, then he came back and said that two were on back order so he had me put in the Boss subs for the time being. Kinda hate those subs for existing since he could have gotten way better subs for the $81 they cost like some Skars or the GW-124 at Wal-Mart that I use. The Duals and Jensens there probably take a comparable amount of power as the Boss subs. It was getting down with them after messing around for quite a while though. I really don't know who hooked him up before. Wiring was nice, but everything seemed to be set really weird and nobody told him his amp and the Boss subs don't do rated. I looked into what that "Epicenter" thing is and I don't think it should be in anyone's set up. I don't know what the hell it does and their description on their website made it sound like a huge gimmick. I'll post a screen cap of it.
  14. Let me know if you need more explanation on how that box goes together. I was pretty worn out a little while ago but doing better now.
  15. I'll have some videos on that box again inside a vehicle later. It was working pretty well IMO, and it's a neat box. More of an experiment than anything. I did hook it up to the same amp I had in the basement briefly inside of my truck then the amp blew out a couple of mosfets so I ordered new mosfets. I had the gain cranked to 100% without noticing, and it's only 4 ohm stable so. lol. It blowed up. Maybe that amp will be working in the future, either that or I'll get my JL amp fixed. Today I put a couple chinese chip amps in my truck for a pair of 6.5 woofers and 5 1/4 coaxials and finished welding up the mount for the big stupid big port box. I'm aware that different woods have different acoustic effects concerning dampening. I watched this video recently and I also watched that Hexibase video you're talking about. That dude has a lot of cool videos on his channel. In this video he says that he built his so-called "World's Second Best Speakers" enclosure from the cheapest plywood AKA the same stuff I used here. I think it's not so bad. This dude also blasts MDF as a "superior" box material too which I found funny. I'm not sure if I argued that the port area negated the effect of wrapping my port all the way around. That was a mistake I guess since I mostly just wanted to try out making a box with a really big port nearly the same area as the cone. What I was trying to convey was that with the size of the port and that I tuned it low at 26Hz it ended up being substantially different than how I expected and then I had to think about that particularly since I put the port right up to the baffle. The port is long enough and big enough that it could be a 42 or 43Hz 1/4 wave if there was no chamber... but there's a big chamber. Some way or another, I've ended up with a box that seems to be tuned lower than I expected and also plays lower than I expected. I can play under 10Hz with this thing while still making enough pressure to feel it quite a lot in the floor on the next level up, rattle windows, etc. The point of that box wasn't exactly to make a box that was within the spec of the woofer, or that was perfectly within the "rules" of box building. I built it simply with the goal of getting extremely low, experimenting with a larger than normal/"appropriate" size port. It was somewhat inspired by Dayton Audio's Ultimax 12 recommended box which is 4 cubic feet tuned at 20Hz. Also inspired by their Ultimax 18 inch woofer which has recommended boxes ranging from 4 cubes to like 15 cubes I think so I figured it was worse a shot Anyway, thanks for the comments. Just got a new job so I'm going to keep building halfway sensical nonsense.
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