CFD

Port noise out the trunk I think is less of an issue to begin with IMO and it will be fine. Are you going to be upset if your box makes port noise a bit at absolute full tilt and only at the port tuning frequency?

Homie start with the basics before you go crazy unless you've tried the basics already. Did you make sure to tell your BIOS to use the graphics card? Instead of your CPU built in GFX? Should check, see if it's "Onboard" or "AUTO" or something like that, and yeah do all the updates that you can. This would definitely be the issue if your onboard graphics works while the GPU won't. You can't really use both at once. That stuff should work together I think, I don't see why it wouldn't. Also check if your BIOS has anything like "above 4g decoding" and "resizeable BAR" and see if changing those settings will help you. I had to go through that process with a card that had, I think, 12GB of RAM. If none of these things work then I'd probably start making sure everything is plugged in and powered correctly or something. Have you or anyone else changed anything in the BIOS/UEFI?

I made a wicked loud T-line for a single 12" so I don't know, do you. It was really big, though.

okey but remote viewing into some random person's computer is so completely sketch lol

If your head unit EQ only effects door speakers and not RCA output then yeah. Buy yourself a scope though, if you're that concerned. They are really inexpensive now and there are plenty that are plenty good under $100. I think there's not really a way to accurately tune with just a volt meter... it won't tell you whether your waves are coming out cleanly. Just my opinion though since I tend to tune by ear and my shit is probably distorting lol

18" Ported Box Tuned at 22Hz Single 12" Box Tuned at 24Hz Dual 6.5" Box Ported 40Hz I also have an H-Frame for some GRS 12" drivers I want to upload. It works surprisingly well and makes a ton of bass from $30 drivers.

Winter pisses me off. I just hate it. I can't stay warm outside unless I wear so many layers that it becomes a task to go outside at all. On the bright side, I get to turn all my computers on and do science to heat my room with BOINC, and Monero mining.

I've got to build the pictured box before I decide what to do with the design. It's for GRS 12sw-4 drivers isobaric. The baffle is meant to hold the two drivers and then be bolted into the enclosure. Two ports on each side of the driver. It's supposed to be sort of a horn as well for projecting sound out doors. I definitely have not modeled it in Hornresp or anything else besides WinISD and I don't know how to. The 12sw-4, I think, has the same motor/magnet as the 10sw-4 yet more cone area so it sort of sucks because it still needs an uber huge enclosure to hit those very low notes. This box is tuned to 23Hz and 4 cubes volume. Here's a design I released. It's for two 12" drivers ~2.5 cubes ~33Hz tuning.

I understand that thing better now. I see what it does. Just seemed like some scam nonsense when I first looked into it. Also, it just didn't seem to do anything in this guy's set up. His install had some little problems that made it confusing. First off was that his head unit was set to high pass the subs at like 80Hz and it took me a minute to figure that out. Then, plainly, I had no idea what the Epicenter was or what it was doing

Made this box design up today for a couple of the 10SW-4 subwoofers after seeing Toid's video of these drivers. Made for isobaric loading. Has a horn situation on it. 2.84 cubes and 25.7Hz tuning before the basket displacement. F3 around 21Hz.

Simple Transmission Line For Lower Power 12 Inch Subwoofers

Box Design for 2 Sundown ZV5 18's 14.25 cubes after displacement and 29-30Hz tuning 48Wx28Dx24H inch external dimensions.