Viper 5901 Blinking LED while I drive?

[dereileak]

There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding?

The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I

really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly

with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine

[truedef]

There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding?

The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I

really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly

with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine

ok, so lets make sure i am making these connections right in my head.

+starter wire from my truck gets spliced in with the Blue/Black wire from chall.

the white black from chall goes to pin 87 of relay

12v from 5 pin conn. goes to pin 86 of relay

i split the 4th pin over on the 5 pin conn. and wire it up with pins 30 and 87?

where do i wire pin 85? and where do i wire the 2nd pin on the 5 pin conn.

[dereileak]

that should at least explain the relay part of it

[dereileak]

There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding?

The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I

really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly

with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine

ok, so lets make sure i am making these connections right in my head.

+starter wire from my truck gets spliced in with the Blue/Black wire from chall. Correct, and it goes to pin 2 , dont run the starter wire from the remote starter to this pin, just use a thin wire from pin 2 to go and tap into the starter wire, as the starter wire has to go to a thick wire in the ignition harness

the white black from chall goes to pin 87 of relay Correct

12v from 5 pin conn. goes to pin 86 of relay Correct

i split the 4th pin over on the 5 pin conn. and wire it up with pins 30 and 87?

where do i wire pin 85? there should be a blue/white wire from the remote start for this wire to 85, or use the solid blue wire (both known as status output) if your going to do rear defrost use the solid blue wire, as the blue/white is used for rear defrost and where do i wire the 2nd pin on the 5 pin conn. thats to the starter wire

I am going to get going to bed, I will check on here tomorrow, do you have a digital multimeter that you can test these wires with?

[truedef]

There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding?

The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I

really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly

with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine

ok, so lets make sure i am making these connections right in my head.

+starter wire from my truck gets spliced in with the Blue/Black wire from chall. Correct, and it goes to pin 2 , dont run the starter wire from the remote starter to this pin, just use a thin wire from pin 2 to go and tap into the starter wire, as the starter wire has to go to a thick wire in the ignition harness

the white black from chall goes to pin 87 of relay Correct

12v from 5 pin conn. goes to pin 86 of relay Correct

i split the 4th pin over on the 5 pin conn. and wire it up with pins 30 and 87?

where do i wire pin 85? there should be a blue/white wire from the remote start for this wire to 85, or use the solid blue wire (both known as status output) if your going to do rear defrost use the solid blue wire, as the blue/white is used for rear defrost and where do i wire the 2nd pin on the 5 pin conn. thats to the starter wire

I am going to get going to bed, I will check on here tomorrow, do you have a digital multimeter that you can test these wires with?

yes,i have a multimeter. how will this come in handy?

[dereileak]

There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding?

The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I

really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly

with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine

ok, so lets make sure i am making these connections right in my head.

+starter wire from my truck gets spliced in with the Blue/Black wire from chall. Correct, and it goes to pin 2 , dont run the starter wire from the remote starter to this pin, just use a thin wire from pin 2 to go and tap into the starter wire, as the starter wire has to go to a thick wire in the ignition harness

the white black from chall goes to pin 87 of relay Correct

12v from 5 pin conn. goes to pin 86 of relay Correct

i split the 4th pin over on the 5 pin conn. and wire it up with pins 30 and 87?

where do i wire pin 85? there should be a blue/white wire from the remote start for this wire to 85, or use the solid blue wire (both known as status output) if your going to do rear defrost use the solid blue wire, as the blue/white is used for rear defrost and where do i wire the 2nd pin on the 5 pin conn. thats to the starter wire

I am going to get going to bed, I will check on here tomorrow, do you have a digital multimeter that you can test these wires with?

yes,i have a multimeter. how will this come in handy?

check everywhere you tap into so you do not damage them, with the exception of the mux and data wires which you can not test, goodnight

[truedef]

There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding?

The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I

really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly

with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine

ok, so lets make sure i am making these connections right in my head.

+starter wire from my truck gets spliced in with the Blue/Black wire from chall. Correct, and it goes to pin 2 , dont run the starter wire from the remote starter to this pin, just use a thin wire from pin 2 to go and tap into the starter wire, as the starter wire has to go to a thick wire in the ignition harness

the white black from chall goes to pin 87 of relay Correct

12v from 5 pin conn. goes to pin 86 of relay Correct

i split the 4th pin over on the 5 pin conn. and wire it up with pins 30 and 87?

where do i wire pin 85? there should be a blue/white wire from the remote start for this wire to 85, or use the solid blue wire (both known as status output) if your going to do rear defrost use the solid blue wire, as the blue/white is used for rear defrost and where do i wire the 2nd pin on the 5 pin conn. thats to the starter wire

I am going to get going to bed, I will check on here tomorrow, do you have a digital multimeter that you can test these wires with?

yes,i have a multimeter. how will this come in handy?

check everywhere you tap into so you do not damage them, with the exception of the mux and data wires which you can not test, goodnight

Do I need a 180ohm resistor in line with the mux and the relay? Because bulldog security .com say I need one.

[dereileak]

There we go, is there anything on it that you need help understanding?

The whole relay portion, I do not understand. Its like a 90 year old woman looking at the Dallas freeway spaghetti lanes going 80mph. I

really with the relay just look at how the relay looks and hook it up accordingly

with a relay, all it does is change where the current comes from, so with yours the to prongs 30 and 87a are connected on the inside of the relay, passing allowing it to connect, so whatever is connected to 30 and 87a will just be like there is a wire with no gaps wire -------------------goes into 30 -----------------------comes out 87a-----------> so those two are connected. Now to get a relay to change you have to energize the little thing in there, so it does neg current on one side 85 and positive on the other 86, because 86 always has a positive connection, even when the car is off, all that has to happen is the neg 85 side has to go negative, and the relay activates. As soon as the relay activates then 30 and 87a loose connection, and now 30 and 87 are connected so wire -----------------------goes into 30 --comes out 87 really all you need to do is hook it up just like it says, you can learn relays later, if you just hook up the wires to the same numbers as the relay you will be fine

ok, so lets make sure i am making these connections right in my head.

+starter wire from my truck gets spliced in with the Blue/Black wire from chall. Correct, and it goes to pin 2 , dont run the starter wire from the remote starter to this pin, just use a thin wire from pin 2 to go and tap into the starter wire, as the starter wire has to go to a thick wire in the ignition harness

the white black from chall goes to pin 87 of relay Correct

12v from 5 pin conn. goes to pin 86 of relay Correct

i split the 4th pin over on the 5 pin conn. and wire it up with pins 30 and 87?

where do i wire pin 85? there should be a blue/white wire from the remote start for this wire to 85, or use the solid blue wire (both known as status output) if your going to do rear defrost use the solid blue wire, as the blue/white is used for rear defrost and where do i wire the 2nd pin on the 5 pin conn. thats to the starter wire

I am going to get going to bed, I will check on here tomorrow, do you have a digital multimeter that you can test these wires with?

yes,i have a multimeter. how will this come in handy?

check everywhere you tap into so you do not damage them, with the exception of the mux and data wires which you can not test, goodnight

Do I need a 180ohm resistor in line with the mux and the relay? Because bulldog security .com say I need one.

mux wire shouldn't, follow the instructions above, ill look at the wiring info quick while I am in class

[truedef]

anything new?

[dereileak]

you are going to need at least 2 more relays to do this install, I would pick up 4 or 5, you can get them cheap on ebay

12volts lt. blue/red (2A) + ignition harness

Starter dk. green/yellow + ign harn or starter button (SRT-10)

Second Starter purple/brown - ignition harness

Notes: The second starter wire is negative trigger thru an 180 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. Refer to DirectFax document 1084 for wiring information.

Ignition pink/white + ignition harness

Second Ignition N/A

Third Ignition N/A

Accessory same as second starter wire - ignition harness

Notes: The accessory wire is negative trigger thru a 610 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. Refer to DirectFax document 1084 for wiring information.

Second Accessory N/A

Keysense N/A

Power Lock purple/dk. green - DKP or cluster, sml gry plug, pin 3

Notes: Lock is negative trigger thru an 820 ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.

Can also use Directed 456L interface module.

Power Unlock same as power lock wire

Lock Motor lt. green 5wi DKP or cluster, white plug, pin 10

Unlock Motor tan/lt. green 5wi DKP or cluster, white plug, pin 1

Parking Lights+ white/yel (L), white/gray ® + harness at top of driver fender

Parking Lights- white/lt. green - sw or cluster, sml gry plug, pin 5

Notes: Parking lights are negative trigger thru a 1130 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay.

Hazards white/orange - sw or cluster, sml gry plug, pin 8

Notes: Hazards are negative trigger thru a 120 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay.

Turn Signal(L) wht/lt grn (F), wht/dk grn ® + harness at top of driver fender

Turn Signal® white/tan (F), white/yel ® + harness at top of driver fender

Reverse Light white/lt. green + harness at top of driver fender

Door Trigger see notes - each kick or cluster, lrg gray plug

Notes: The LF door is purple in pin 1. The RF door is purple/white in pin 4. The LR door is purple/orange or purple/gray in pin 2. The RR door is purple/yellow or tan/yellow in pin 3. Use all four wires and diode isolate each wire from each other and the instrument cluster. See DirectFax document 1076 for wiring information.

Dome Supervision yellow/lt. blue + A pillar or cluster, wht plg, pin 21

Trunk/Hatch Pin N/A

Hood Pin N/A

Trunk/Hatch Release N/A

Power Sliding Door N/A

Factory Alarm Arm factory remote only

Factory Alarm Disarm factory remote only

Disarm No Unlock with ignition and Sentry Key

Tachometer dk. blue/gray ac PCM, black/orange plug, pin 34

Notes: The PCM is on the passenger side firewall. The black/orange plug is the second plug down from the top.

On SRT-10 models, the tach wire is in the top black plug, pin 18.

On diesel models, the tach wire is at the ECM on the lower driver side of the engine, front 60 pin plug, pin 24, or at the camshaft position sensor just left of the ECM, in a 3 pin plug.

On gas models, can also go to any ignition coil or fuel injector and use the wire that is NOT brown/white.

Wait to start see DirectFax document 1091

Brake Wire white/tan + brake pedal switch

Parking Brake dk. green/white - sw or cluster, lrg gry plug, pin 22

Horn Trigger dk. green/purple - sw or cluster, lrg gry plug, pin 14

this is how you do the accessory wire and starter wire I beleive, I will have to double check when I am more awake