arthurk

The components are for a BMW 330 CI vert and the alt is for a Sebring Vert

Got a few new toys today. Massive RK6 mid components that look, well, MASSIVE! LOL! Will be powering these with a Arc Audio Se4200, which should do ok for now. Also a new 300amp alt from Ohio Generator. Time to get busy!

Some nice rides in there. That old school blue car is sweet. Any idea what they were doing to that Porsche?

I am looking at a truck for sale and it is on hydraulics. I want to know how to check if it is all working well and all. Any input would be great. Here are the pics. They want $5K.

Great old car man. I had one of those and was hell on wheels in it. A total tank.

Me Likee. Those machines that make the rims are badass to watch.

Mine was a Pyramid pba-1000 on 2 crunch 15" subs in the back seat of the worst built car EVER, a Renault Alliance Convertible. Amp didn't like the summer heat though.LOL. This would have been in the late 80's I guess technically it was a Jensen 5 band Eq/power booster under the dash for some 6x9's!

Sweet! You guys rock. Thanks

Well, I also have to figure out how to get a fuse close to the battery and yet so I can get to it to change it since it's under the wheel well.

Yeah it's cold out there today but I'm gonna go tackle it anyway. Thanks

Ok, so here is the problem. I just installed a new system in a car and it has the battery up under the wheel well(Chrysler) and then there are posts up under the hood for Pos/Neg. I ran my 1/0 to the positive post under the hood back to my amps and grounded in my trunk. New Dakota Digital voltage meter installed and when the system is turned up, she drops to as low as 9.5, which obviously is gonna kill my shit quickly. I've got an alt on the way and will do a 2nd battery as well,but I am getting different opinions as where I should have my positive wire up front. Should it go directly to the battery under the wheel well or to the positive post under the hood. Were only talking 2000 watts so it shouldn't be quite so low.Here are some stock pics and not showing the stereo power wire as it is dark out right now. Any help would be appreciated. Also, with the way this car is wired, I am getting some who think using 4 gauge instead of 1/0 would be better for the big 3 part of the wiring, which doesn't seem logical, but that's why I am asking. It's all top if the line wire, (KNU), amps, everything. HHMMMMMM??????

I've done a few convertibles and its a bitch for sure. The problem is with the top down you can hear all of the trunk rattling since it's close so I had to deaden the crap out of the trunk. Also, where normally I'd go for no speakers in the rear sides in a normal car to get a good front stage, on a convertible you just want as much volume as you can get to overcome the wind noise on the highway so I have 6.5's in the doors and the rear to keep up. Obviously there are other issues as well, such as most trunks on convertibles are prone to leak since the well where the top goes usually lets a little water in eventually. Also, there are drain holes that need to be kept free of debris or water will pool in certain areas depending on the car. My best or at least loudest vert is a Sebring with four 12" Arc Flatlines sandwiched in the trunk in a sealed box powered by the 4000Se and then the Arc SE4200 running the mids/highs. Good luck!

Very nice!