137 replies to this topic

[HatersGonnaHate]

Perform this at your own risk!

Not my fault if YOU do something wrong!

At the moment, this bypass works on any Civic/Accord from 1994 to 2006 that is equipped with an ELD.
Late 2006 and newer models, the ELD wire colors have been changed, but the process remains the same. Updated the wire colors in post #4.

This was a diagram from keep_hope_alive over on the Accord forums, to bypass the ELD (Electronic Load Detector) on Honda Civics and Accords that are equipped with the nuisance lol.



This is my first How-To, so bear with me lol

The ELD is a device that gathers data from the ECU and the engine to figure out when your alternator needs to increase the charging voltage (14.4-14.6), or run in standard, non-high output mode, which leaves you charging at 13.2-13.6. Which really sucks when you have an audio system and you need the voltage to remain high.


What you need:

Standard relay (1)
Relay wire socket, recommended (1)
Single pole/Single throw switch (1)
1/2 Watt, 820 ohm resistor (1)
Extra wire, I used 6ft lengths of wire just incase. 3 runs of that.
Solder
Soldering Iron

Links for the lazy
Resistors - 10 pack: http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=002-820
Relay: http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=330-073
Relay Socket: http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=330-075
Switch: http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=060-776

I used crimps and electrical tape because my iron just went out on me, all crimps are tight and nothing is moving, don't worry






Prep the ends of your wires for soldering (or crimping and taping in my case)

Edited by HatersGonnaHate, 01 May 2012 - 11:40 AM.

[HatersGonnaHate]

Take your 820ohm resistor, and solder that to the yellow lead off of the relay socket. If you didn't get the relay socket, the resistor goes in the line coming off of 87 on the relay.



The only other wires that need to be lengthened are the blue and red wires coming off of the socket. If you didn't get the socket, the leads on the relay will be numbers 87a and 30



My beautiful crimp and tape job



The white and black wire coming from the relay socket, or leads #85 and #86 will be staying inside the car, behind the head unit or wherever you care to mount the relay and switch.

Lead #85 goes to the switch, and the other lead coming off of the switch goes to ground. Mine is grounded to my radio ground and I left my switch hidden

Lead #86 goes into the remote coming from your head unit or a remote turn on of some sort. Mine is wired into the remote lead from my H/U

Fish the remaining 3 wires through the firewall and into the engine compartment. The easiest spot on my car was the grommet that I ran my 1/0 gauge through. That spot is located directly behind the glove box where the main engine harness runs through to the ECM.

Pop the hood, and find your fuse box. This is mine. Yours may not be so gay colored.

If your stock air box is in the way, remove it. I have the luxury of having a cold air intake, which doesn't get in my way one bit

Edited by HatersGonnaHate, 15 April 2012 - 02:07 PM.

[HatersGonnaHate]

!!!Disconnect the ground from the battery before moving on!!!

Take the cover off of your fuse box and locate the ELD. Mine is the bigger brown box in the bottom of the fuse box. Once located, remove the 80 amp fuse and the 40 amp fuse on either side of the ELD. They are secured by screws and they help fasten down the ELD.



Once those fuses are removed, the ELD will be loose, but will not come out. You have to pull the fuse box out.
Remove the 10mm bolt that is located in the bottom left hand corner of the picture, then squeeze the lock release tabs on the back of the fuse box and lift up. The fuse box should now be free to move, all the wires are still connected, so don't try and rip it out of the car.
There is a plastic removable cap on the bottom of the fuse box, that just pops off. Wiggle the ELD and you can verify which electrical connector goes to the ELD. Push the tab on the connector and release it from the ELD.

Should look like this when you remove the ELD



The ELD itself.



The connector that goes to the ELD

Edited by HatersGonnaHate, 15 April 2012 - 01:32 PM.

[HatersGonnaHate]

At this point, the connector should be free. You should have about 4-6 inches of play room to work with.
There are 3 wires on the connector.

Civic/CR-V/Accord
Green/red
Black
Black/yellow or black/orange DO NOT CUT OR TAP INTO THIS WIRE

Cut the green/red and the black wire.
The wire you have with the resistor in it, 87 from the relay, gets spliced into the black wire.

For late 2006 and up, these are the wires you will be working with:
Yellow with silver hashes - 12v from ignition
Orange with silver hashes - 5v sensory feed to the ECU
Black - Ground

Instead of using the green/red, you will be using the orange/silver.


Black gets tapped with the resistor.... Orange wire gets spliced into the relay..... Yellow remains untouched.

Honda Fit wire colors:
Pink
Light Blue
Black

Black gets tapped with the resistor. Pink gets spliced into the relay. Light blue remains untouched.

Honda Ridgeline wire colors:
Blue/Black
Black
Black/Yellow

Black gets tapped with the resistor. Blue/Black gets spliced into the relay. Black/Yellow remains untouched.

Acura Integra:
Green/Red
Black
Black/White

Black gets tapped with the resistor. Green/Red gets spliced into the relay. Black/White remains untouched.

You will have to remove the fusebox from the engine bay on the older model Civics and Integras.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here mine is, all crimped and ready to go.



#87a from the relay gets tapped into the green/red wire GOING INTO the connector that goes into the ELD



#30 from the relay gets spliced into the green/red wire COMING OUT OF the main wiring harness



Tuck all the wires back under the fuse box and put the connector in the hole for the ELD and attach the ELD again. Put the plastic cap back on the bottom of the fuse box. Put the ELD in the slot and put the two fuses back in where they came out of. 80 amp on the left side, 40 amp on the right. Screw them back down and that completes the tough wiring for the bypass.



I wire loomed all the wires for a nice clean appearance under the hood. You can tape, zip tie, or heat shrink it. Or leave it looking like hell, that's all up to you.




Here's a quick vid showing the voltage go back up after the ELD kicks in and drops it down to 13.2, then I flip the switch and it goes back up to the 14's Successful ELD bypass. Woot.

Edited by HatersGonnaHate, 07 May 2012 - 10:09 PM.

[HatersGonnaHate]

I think everything is all edited up for the moment. Hope this helps some people out. The hardest part about this bypass, was making the write-up
All in all, it took me about an hour to do everything, run the wires, splice, crimp, tape, button it up, connect my negative back to the battery. Done.
Fired the car on and kicked on the A/C, rear defroster, lights, windows. Watched the voltage drop to the 13's. Flicked the switch and went back up to mid 14's. No check engine lights. No clouds of smoke. Pretty easy to do IMO.

Remember, you're doing this at your own risk, so don't blame me if YOU do something wrong.

[Sheena]

just a note for potential later model hondas, on my 2009 honda civic if i activate anything other than the radio the alt goes into high output mode.

this was tested sitting idle, in park. Car ON, everything off except amp/head unit (low listening volume) voltage resting at 12.6.

AC flipped on 14.4.

power window activated 14.4

driving lights activated 14.4 (which is what i use to keep the alt in high output mode when im above 2k rpm)

windshield wipers 14.4

door locks activated 14.4

i actually want to say thanks HatersGonnaHate for this write up for civic/accord users.

do you know if this will work for the new model cars? (i havent looked into it, and since you obviously have i wanted to ask before i go googling)

[HatersGonnaHate]

Thanks for that little update Sheena!
That's how mine USED to be. I'd turn on an accessory and the voltage would go back up, but after a few minutes it would drop back down to mid 13's. I just got sick of having to tap my window button every few minutes lol

As for working on new model cars, at the moment, I'm not sure so I'm gonna have to do some digging and find the resistance on that ground wire and see if the wire colors are the same. I know this works on Hondas with ELD's from 1994 up to 2006. I will be adding that to the main post though.

And I will get back to you about clarifying if this works on the recent year models man

[Sheena]

if i remember correctly, the civic got changed in 2006 and has really been the same except a few eye looking changes.

so 2006-2009 uses a lot of the same electrical stuff, and i even believe the haynes manual is 2006-2009. (i havent bought it for my car yet)

so if this works for a 2006 model, then it works for a 2009 model.. just different color wires completely and possibly a new location for the ELD.

[HatersGonnaHate]

I will definitely look into it for you man. If I don't update it tonight, then tomorrow for sure.

[Sheena]

keeping an eye on this my fellow civic brother!

[HatersGonnaHate]

Appreciate the support bro

[99CivicEx]

So this HO mode, can stay on or will it destroy the alternator? If I have large voltage drops causing my amp to shut off for a few seconds then come back on... would this help?? I have checked my power and ground, everything is secure and tight.

[Sheena]

i would imagine this H/O mode is basically like running with your A/C on everywhere you go. which a lot of people do.

will it alone destroy the alt? uhh, i honestly want to say if it could kill your alt, it would take a really long time unless your just relentless on your alt with your bass 24/7.. meaning that you full tilt it pretty much anytime your in the car

[KickerKid58]

Yes and no. Yes you can leave in in the HO mode (simply disabling the ELD) and you will notice better voltage, but you will most likely shorten the life of your alternator. Running your alt at 100% output will slowly take its toll.


HatersGonnaHate, I started this awhile ago and never got around to finishing it. Can you just get the relay/plug at a local Radio Shack? Also Do you now of an easy way I can test the three wires with a dmm to figure out which is which? (used the same kind of wire and lost my cheat sheet for the identifying markings i put on them [superfail] lol)

[99CivicEx]

What if i do this and also upgrade to four gauge wiring for my alternator?

[mattc3366]

Planning on doing it this week if I have a chance. Ill post results for ya. Thanks man!

[KickerKid58]

What if i do this and also upgrade to four gauge wiring for my alternator?

Im guessing from your sig that all together your running about 1500watts rms? How big is your main power & ground wires? Do the big 3 (in 0ga if you can its worth it, but 4ga is better than nothing) and make sure you have AT LEAST 4ga power and ground wire. Surf some of the pinned threads HERE and you'll learn alot.

[HatersGonnaHate]

So this HO mode, can stay on or will it destroy the alternator? If I have large voltage drops causing my amp to shut off for a few seconds then come back on... would this help?? I have checked my power and ground, everything is secure and tight.

I wouldn't recommend keeping it on all the time, that's why I mentioned a switch being in the circuit, so you can turn it off and on at your own free will. It won't work miracles for your voltage drops, that's why if your running big equipment, you need the correct power to back it up (extra batteries, H.O. alt, multiple runs of 1/0 gauge). The only thing this bypass does, is keep it on a 14.2-.14.6 charging voltage when you flip that switch.

HatersGonnaHate, I started this awhile ago and never got around to finishing it. Can you just get the relay/plug at a local Radio Shack? Also Do you now of an easy way I can test the three wires with a dmm to figure out which is which? (used the same kind of wire and lost my cheat sheet for the identifying markings i put on them [superfail] lol)

Yes you can pick the relay up at a Radio Shack or any auto parts store that carries the "Bosch Type" relays. At the moment, I don't know the voltage or the ohm readings on the wires, but I'll try to find them for you! In the mean time, or if your impatient lol, cut back the wire loom on the main harness that it goes into and trace those wires and identify them.

What if i do this and also upgrade to four gauge wiring for my alternator?

4 gauge will help voltage drops, hell, anything that's bigger than the shitty stock wires will help lol. If you can get your hands on some 1/0 gauge, I'd recommend doing the entire big 3 in that.

Planning on doing it this week if I have a chance. Ill post results for ya. Thanks man!

Sounds like a plan man! Keep me posted and good luck!

[99CivicEx]

What if i do this and also upgrade to four gauge wiring for my alternator?

Im guessing from your sig that all together your running about 1500watts rms? How big is your main power & ground wires? Do the big 3 (in 0ga if you can its worth it, but 4ga is better than nothing) and make sure you have AT LEAST 4ga power and ground wire. Surf some of the pinned threads HERE and you'll learn alot.

Yeah, My main power and ground is 4gauge. And I might be able to get my hands on some 1/0 Gauge wiring.

[basshead7890]

I guess this is the cause of my problems I'm having. I will be doing this to my car, thank you for this thread and bringing this to my attention. Did you have any gains at idle with your music playing?