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Understood. Second sub, big 3, bigger alt, and new box supplies getting ordered today. I've read (on F150 forums) that these trucks stock alternators handle 3k watts pretty well. test tone from tone generator app - silent to full tilt 30hz 13.04V to 12.86V 40hz 13.04V to 12.9V 50hz 13.04V to 12.2V 60hz 13.04V to 12.25V

You don't run a 2500W amp (specially full bridge) on stock electrical, to test this connect a voltage gauge at your amp power terminals, turn up your volume, if you see that voltage drop as you turn the volume up there is for the most part your problem, the other thing is that every 3dB of gain you need twice the power so at 2000W you will be just barely louder than 1000W and to gainthe same 3dB at 2000W you will need 4000W crazy watts, that is why power is not your first option to get loud, cone area is.

Howdy. I've recently returned to the car audio hobby. I have some fresh equipment (and some old) that seem to be acting weirdly. 2012 F150 4dr 5.0L (Stock - no big three) AGM battery - One that O'Reillys offers for my pickup (I will return and edit with a brand/specs ASAP) Alpine 172BT (purchased 2019) 1x Skar EVL 12 D2 (New) Sundown Audio SIA2500 (New) Wired parallel @ 1ohm Homemade 2.4cu.ft, 32Hz, L shaped slot port, Sub/Port front facing, ~26 sq.in port area, and appropriate port length calculated from WinISD --- Previously was using a Memphis Audio 1500.1PRX to drive the woofer I'm getting consistent and correct ohm/volt readings thru out the truck and audio system. Headunit is clean at 34/35vol, 40hz -0db SMD tone CD. The only time distortion is showing up during gain tuning is when using the 0db or -5db tones. The -10db and -15db tones show zero distortion all the way to max gain (other than the random blips that show up when turning gain). EQs and Filters are all flat/open/full pass/etc. on the HU and the amp. Sky High Audio bass knob at full tilt. My oscilloscope's readings are consistent with my DD-1's readings. The reason I purchased the SIA2500 was, one I hear they're a quality brand(and I should be able to run two 2ohm DVC subs @ 2ohm @ 2500watts in future), and two I assumed my 1500.1PRX was on the way out when it was also reaching max gain without distortion when tuning to -10db and -15db tracks. The sub gets kinda loud, pretty full sound, pretty deep(I keep my SSF around 27-28hz), but at least clean at full tilt on both amps. But after going from 1500watts to 2500watts, I am noticing no change in performance from the sub. No increase in volume, not reaching any deeper with more strength. I've yet to run into this issue with the handful of subs and amps I've used throughout life. I've never reached full gain on any amps in my life yet. If this helps, my Skar 100.4AB (800 watt) 4way is running my door speakers (Skar TX-65s) without distortion. The gains on them are about mid way, more on board with the "usual." I currently have these tuned to the -5db 1k Hz tone. I say this knowing amp/sub components can react differently from unit to unit. So after burning your eyes out with a wall of text - my goal is to make sure this gain setting will continue to be safe for my equipment BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY I feel I am not getting full performance out of this sub and/or amp(s). Thanks for your time. I'll reply ASAP

it usually takes a while for newer cars to have info like that online. if the body and interior didn't change from 2022/23 you might try looking those up as there is a better chance the wiring for those will be online. if you go that route I would take everything you see online with a grain of salt and test, test, test to make sure you have the signals you are looking for. I assume you are needing signal wires for the input. if that's the case, the best and probably the easiest way to get it would be from the factory amplifier. GM likes to shove these in the trunk area usually behind some trim panels near the wheel well. I've seen them on both driver and passenger side of the trunk, so it's your guess which to try first. now you'll need to figure out what speakers on the car actually output the bass, usually on these newer vehicles it's the front 2 doors unless it has a factory sub. if it has a factory sub you'll want that signal. if not grab the 2 with the most bass and tap into them. run them to the 4 pin Molex then it's just power, ground, and bass knob if there is one. you won't need a remote turn on as this has signal sense built in so when it sees signal on the input it turns on. here is some wiring from the12volt for a 2018... it's the newest public info out there for an encore, but that doesn't mean its correct. I make no guarantee on if its right or wrong, just putting it here for easier reference Radio 12V Red/Gray + Radio, gray 20 pin plug, pin 1 Radio Ground Black/White - Radio, gray 20 pin plug, pin 11 Radio Ignition (Low Speed GMLAN) Factory Amp Turn-on (MOST Serial Data) Left Front Speaker (+/-) Blue - Brown/Blue +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, green 16 pin plug, pins 7 - 15 Right Front Speaker (+/-) Yellow - Yellow/Black +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, green 16 pin plug, pins 6 - 14 Left Rear Speaker (+/-) Green - Green/Black +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, green 16 pin plug, pins 5 - 13 Right Rear Speaker (+/-) White - Blue/Black +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, green 16 pin plug, pins 4 - 12 Subwoofer (+/-) Green/Black - Blue/Gray +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, gray 8 pin plug, pins 7 - 3 **** copied from the12volt****

Hi everybody, I recently bought a 2024 Buick Encore GX with the Bose system. I’m looking to install this JL Audio sub combo for some bass. I’m lost on wiring it and have already asked crutchfield and they have zero info. https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_13693330/JL-Audio-ACP108LG-W3v3.html i thought some installers could help with a wiring diagram and do I need a jl audio clean sweep. thank you

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that rockville amp isnt doing you any favors there. on that ticket, neither are the e series subs. its all what i used to sell as entry level. (not the rockville... never that) the list i sent you would be worlds louder than anything those e subs can do

radio out to dsp. dsp out to bass knob and 4 chan amps. bass knob out to epi. epi out to bass amp. does your dsp not have a bass knob? if it does i would use that over a rca bass knob. just my opinion tho

there really isn't a best website... I learned a lot from this forum years ago and just started playing with design software. over the years I've learned A LOT by just doing it. a good place to start is with Torres box tuning calculator (there's a free link in enclosures section) and winISD (google has the link for this one) I start with measurements in the car and transfer those into Torres to see where I'm at airspace wise. if you are going sealed then the numbers it outputs there will be roughly what you'll have for airspace. if you are going ported id usually rough in 1/4 to 1/3 extra for port displacement at this point (you can fine tune this later). next is port dimensions. its more of a game trying to balance net volume, port tuning, and sq in of port area (generally shoot for 12-15 sq in per foot of port area as a basic guide) once you have what you like there you can use the cutsheet to build the box if you would like, or you could take it a step further and input it all into winISD to see a few graphs of what your box should perform like. there's a good bit of setup involved with winISD and I'm sure you can find all the info you would need here on the forum using the search bar for winISD. I'm not an expert on any of this by any means, but through the better part of the last 15 years I've gained a bit of knowledge on at least what not to do. experiment and explore with these programs and see what you can come up with. if you are stumped on something post it up with some screenshots and I'll be more than happy to give you a few pointers.

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i have a bass amp and a voice amp and i want to put a epi center and a dsp and i have a rca bass knob and i am confused on how many rca cables i will need and how to run them all.

what is the best website for designing subwoofer enclosures?

my current setup is 2 sundown E series 12s in a 2.5cu slot port enclosure running on a 2000 watt max rockville audio amp (db12) stock electrical pioneer double din headunit also have a speaker wall above my back seats with 2 rockville marine speakers and a ds18 pro 8” midrange and 2 skar 3.5” tweeters running on a rockville full range amp all wiring for amps is rockville 4gauge and rockville rca

how much air space does this subwoofer need?

this would get down. would even have a bit left over to get a box built and a second battery. if you are feeling spicy you can add some lithium power and rock with the D1 sub at 0.5 ohm... might be a bit much power for that sub at 0.5 ohm. the safe way would be to get the D2 coil config and run it at 1 ohm

how many and what size subs subs would you prefer?

what all equipment do you have currently?

my price range is around 2-3k want it to be loud but also daily driveable

my price range is around 2-3k and i want it to be loud but don’t want to spend a crazy amount

the e series is more of a budget line from sundown. you could possibly make a pair of x or z 12s move some air.

what is your crossover set at on the dsp?

honestly if you want to play with the big spl numbers you are going to need a serious budget... think 6 figure range. you could always save up over time. if you are just wanting some good bass that's something we can for sure help with. I'd need to know a rough number for your overall budget and I can make some recommendations based on that to get you some good sound. you've got a good vehicle for what you want. that generation Tahoe is a proven platform for bass.

i have a 2004 tahoe and want to do a spl build but i dont have a huge budget what would be the best and most efficient way to do the build?

Hello all, I am new here and was wondering if anyone has used the XDSP66BT DSP by NVX. I had a taramps 2.6 dsp and it was fairly easy to use and it got loud and clear. I have my high pass on the amp set to off and im running skar components in the front doors and it doesnt sound as punchy as it did with the taramps. Should i adjust the eq on the dsp or the head unit? thank you