NDMstang65

Depends on how much power you plan on running... You have to calculate your displacements as well. Either post the dimensions or use the basic geometry formula of length x width x height / 1728 to figure out how much volume the port is taking up.

Need the port opening dimensions as well. You can calculate volume of enclosures here. You then have to do length x width x height for your port and subtract that from the volume. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#rec

MAS!

UP

I'm adding more pictures to our Facebook daily. If you want to have your install showcased in our gallery on our Facebook page simply put them up here and tag yourself in them once I have uploaded them!!! Thanks!

No we did free cooling for 2 days on the subs. The X's are still up, the ones we set aside are nearly gone though. I think we have less than 10 left

You already missed it.. We did a black Friday sale this past weekend for 2 days.

n8 came up with it..no doubt made me laugh

That's a LOT of power for those things... You do know that we rate them @ 550 watts at 20Hz?

SSD is 200 bucks... Walk the park with a SA...and is actually machined and built here. 3" coil, much better suspension, more linear output. Much better cooling technology if you want to pop for it. It's way cheaper to get things pre-built in China, goes to show you how in check the pricing is.

Are you going to build a wall behind the back seat?

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That's a problem. Email me a picture and your address and we'll get you one out.

Definitely don't have crappy customer service. Relax. I've emailed you back you will get taken care of. We go through tens of thousands of terminals a year...it is completely normal to have some that are simply flawed, that's part of manufacturing. Sac - If a dealer does not take care of you there is not much I can do.

Haven't got anything about this from you? Email me with your name and order number. Nick " at " ficaraudio.com We'll get you taken care of...We've had a couple peoples terminals get broken over the past few weeks and I thought we had everybody taken care of, I guess not. It happens..email me!

3-7 business days and then it ships... It's plastered everywhere , when it goes is when it goes..somewhere between 3 and 7 business days from the day you placed your order, you've got a tracking number in your email. Check it around 8-9pm PST when the UPS servers update.

No...we did not send you the wrong thing. The only flatwound coil that any BTL gets is the old 2 stack version...for those who order the flatwound coil we contact them and say you really do not want it because it is not going to work at all. If you want it chief, you got it. But don't say I didn't tell you so when it sucks.

Regardless...I'm sure you are getting ready for finals and what not. I'll talk to Scott and see if we can work up a deal on another recone.

Regardless if you want to argue or not..you didn't shim it right. Recones are built on a motor and basket assembly and are set up flat, it is up to you to shim it concentric off of the pole. It's a great possibility that you could have had a layer overlap throwing it off enough to rub. You do not want a flatwound coil in a BTL motor..the flatwound coil is very short, and I can count on 2 fingers how many of those exist. A D2 coil high xmax coil is a round wire coil, a D2 flatwound coil is VERY VERY short..you excursion will go down and it will sound like crap. I've built thousands of speakers...once in a very blue moon i'll have a gauge that just does not go right in the motor. Every one is tested before it leaves...so it is found and redone. It happens only when the parts are dropped in and built...but not on a recone.

Then run an M6 bottom tap down it to straighten the threads up dude. ...You can put some loctite bearing mount on the threads of the new bolts and literally stick them in the holes and glue the basket on the motor and it is never going to come off. Those Chinese thread depths are a joke anyhow and are tapped very light.

Dude..I told you what to do. Why won't you listen? Get an easy out. Follow the directions. It will save you a lot of time and money.

Listen to me. Go get an easy out from NAPA auto parts or a local tool supply store. Don't go drilling on anything until you try that. Tape the gap up with duct tape. You can also ask them about a left handed drill bit too...many times you can 'snag' the bolt that is broken off and it will spin right out. This is if and only if they did not pull a bone headed move and put glue in the threads. If there is glue in the threads you are screwed. DO NOT DRILL AND TAP UNTIL YOU HAVE TO. Edit: Here's an easy out set to show you what it is: http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE

Tap the gap up with some duct tape.. Your best bet is going to be an easy out in a drill. Unless they did something dumb and actually put glue in the threads themselves...then you're going to have fun drilling and re-tapping a charged motor

Please get something that has an adjustable subsonic filter...and read the sticker on the box

No..nobody ever had any issues with them.. It's a 250 watt sub..and they would put 800 watts to it and then complain when they killed it. New ones are a big jump up from the first X's. Integrated tinsel leads etc.