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Everything posted by NDMstang65
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[media] [media]
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Specs the exact same (within >1%), we went to the pie shape magnets because the single 285mm slug was too hard to manufacture without flaws. 12's and 15's need those black spacers, 18's do not. (12 needs 2 layers, 15 needs 1 layer)
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No..web guy didn't change it, they are all 3" coils. They are also all rated at 1500 watts.
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(2) Fi BL 12" or (2) Fi SSD 12" subs?
NDMstang65 replied to Hadec's topic in Fi Car Audio Subwoofers
Nothing at all wrong with the SSD's...if you are working on a more limited budget go with them. You do not have to sink as much money in electrical upgrades. -
So a level 3 is cheaper then 200 bucks..uses American forged steel with American soft parts..and is machined in house..and offers the same cooling technology that the BTL does?
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Uh....SSD...
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If it has a sticker on the back of it..it's a new motor.
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12-16 square inches of port per cubic foot of volume and tune 30-33Hz.
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Fs is simply the resonance of the parts in a free air environment, in all honesty it is pretty much a worthless parameter. It does not indicate the frequency response of a sub (lower Fs is not going to automatically "hit lower" contrary to popular belief) and Higher Fs does not mean that a sub will not "hit the low notes". A speaker simply does what you tell it to do in the environment that you put it in. Putting a High Fs subwoofer in a box tuned to 33Hz does not mean it is not going to play the frequency range from the Fs to tuning..and totally miss it. That is not how it works and is totally urban myth. It will do whatever you tell it to do, including destroy itself. Simply because it does not know any better. Qts is the "overall Q" of the speaker, and is something that dictates motor force and what kind of enclosure a speaker should be in. Low Qts woofers (say .35 and down) should be in a ported alignment only. Mid Qts woofers (say .36 to . 45 or so) works well in a sealed or ported alignment. High Qts woofers (say .46 and higher arbitrarily) works best in a sealed alignment. Again, these figures are arbitrary and what I feel/think is 'optimal' for a musical scenario and daily driving. This is not a law, it is simply what I think and is my opinion. However, you can stick a high qts woofer in a ported enclosure..and get one heck of a peak out of it...and make it work great for SPL . Qts is indicative of motor force as well. (Bl) Lower Qts will allow more motor force, Higher QTS will not allow it. Hope this helps.
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What do you mean by "its gotta be something else?" A dual 2ohm motor is the universal gap, the dual 1ohm coil will easily fit in it..as the outer diameter is smaller.
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bout that much.
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Cut it apart is about the only way to know.. If it's a old Q you can look in the pole vent, if it's got glue/epoxy in the back side of it odds are it is a BP optioned Q.
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"Hold my beer and watch this shit"
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No...not at all. The hixamax BTL coil will smack the back plate. The standard flatwind coil for the BTL is the same coil as the flat wind coil option for the BL, but the set up is still different. They use the same spider combination. Moral of the story here..don't order pistons for a blown 572 when you are trying to put them in a 454. The parts are made like they are for a reason.
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With that room go with 10's.
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Question about running a Q in a sealed box
NDMstang65 replied to Robert8252's topic in Fi Car Audio Subwoofers
It's not optimal if you have the new motor design, which is why we have the HQTS option that scrubs off un needed motor strength. -
FW..already emailed you
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That's in new jersey...whoever is ordering it for you get them to give you their address and you can put it in on the website. It will give you a shipped quote.
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Only way to know for sure is by cutting it apart..other then that it's a crap shoot. Most of the single magnet BTL's were ordered fully loaded for the most part.
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Put a picture up of it..
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If it's a D2 and has cooling..yes.
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Haven't heard anything from you...or maybe I've already helped you and replied..check your spam folder on your email. You can email me directly at [email protected]
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20-80Hz is all a subwoofer should be used for..personally I don't use a sub for higher then 60Hz.. 4-8 cubes sealed, smaller box will be more punchy and transient, 8 cubes will be boomier..somewhere in the middle is a mix of the two.