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Nave you have no room to talk... whoops is that bullying?

Mine sounds ok but yea the xovers are a little lacking...the amp will get hot at 2 ohms but mine has never shut off and i use it hard...and also this amp doesnt put out more than 200 per channel at 2 ohms. Neither does the sundown i dont think. That much power is going to cost some money

Im not sure, all I know is that I read it every day and keep re reading it and I still learn something new everytime My dmm will definitely be put to good use

oh shit, scratch what i said about the subs....I forgot for a sec that you were setting speaker gains...but other than that...yea double check all of your wiring...its a tedious process but as you can see its little shit that brings up a problem a lot of the time....

yea that would have to be your factory tweets playing lol.... Are you POSITIVE you dont have the speaker wires mixed up? I did that once on the amp. Sounds like the either the RCAs or the speaker wires are mixed up. Common mistake. Either way, both filters should be set to the same seting (80-90hz) so I dont see it being that big of a problem in your application. As for the o-scope I havent used that one so Im not sure. sorry. I do believe on the Alpines the subwoofer setting has to be set on 6 on the deck to receive full ouput. Someone call me out on that if its not true but I have been hearing the same thing from other people also. Try it and see what happens.

hmmm interesting. What do you mean by "I can still hear the tone when I unplug the RCAs?" You can still hear them from your speakers? What head unit are you using?

Just wanted to give you guys a heads up on a book my mechanic buddy let me borrow.... Its called Fundamentals of Electrical Troubleshooting This is hands down the best book I have ever read that explains how electronics in a car work, and how to take down problems. Its written by a guy whos been doing this kind of work in a shop for many years, and his writing style makes sense.... While it has nothing in it about car audio, it tackles all other major electrical components and explains real world situations where things can go wrong and what to look for....Actually if you guys know whats in the book, car audio becomes cake. I would not even hesitate to get this book if I were looking to buy it. The author hand wrote the entire thing which is pretty neat...I may throw up a couple page shots in a little while. Heres a link: click here

Happy Birthday man! Live it up whenever you celebrate

what kind of o-scope do u have? As for setting the filters on the amp. I would set each HPF around 80-90. dont worry about low pass filters...

use a 1khz test tone...u can get it from realmofexcursion.com....pop it in the cd player...all eqs set to off.... unplug the rcas from the head unit and hook up the o-scope leads to where the rcas would go into the head unit.... turn up the volume until you see a clipped signal on the o-scope...that volume is how loud u can safely turn up the deck without it distorting now keep the deck on that level and pause the test tone....and hook the RCAs back up between the deck and the amp.... next unplug your output wires from the amp....(the wires that go to the speakers)....and plug in the oscope....make sure the gains are turned down.....now play the tone and turn up the gain on the amp until the tone clips on the o-scope...and turn it down a tad from that... do the same for the other 2 channels for the amp and you're done...plug the speaker wires in and bang.... this of course assumes that the speakers you are running can take the power from the amp All this guarantees is that the power you are sending is clean...

Electrical Q Value -Qes: 0.46 Mechanical Q Value -Qms: 4.4 Total Speaker Q Value -Qts: 0.42 Free Air Resonance -Fs: 26.6 Hz Equivalent Compliance -Vas: 31 liters One-Way, Linear Excursion -Xmax: 18 mm Efficiency -SPL 1W/1m: 83.2 dB SPL Effective Piston Area -Sd: 310 cm^2 DC Resistance -Re: 2.8 ohm Nominal Impedance -Znom: Dual 4 ohm Thermal Power Handling -Pe: 600 W Force Factor -Bl: 17.7 Mounting Depth - 6.4" Mounting Hole Diameter - 9.3" Overall Diameter - 11" Bolt Hole Circle - 10.1" Motor Width - 7.3" Motor Depth - 3.4" Basket Depth - 2.94" Displacement - 0.14 cu. ft. Weight - 21 lbs.

haha no, its the style that came out before the newest...this is actually one of the newer se's, but not the sexxx......

Up for sale is a Brand new re se 10...dual 4....never been mounted or powered.... looks are 9.95 out of 10...theres like the tiniest scuff mark ever on the basket and a small scuff on the bottom of the motor...small enough to barely be seen in the pics lol.... anyhow here they are...asking price is 105 shipped FIRM...this is already cheaper than anywhere online period for this sub being brand new.... Thanks and Happy Holidays

I purchased the Windows 7 upgrade for my moms toshiba laptop which is currently running Vista home. I enter the disc while at the home desktop screen like it says but NOTHING happens. I try to go into my computer and open the cd files to run the setup from there but when I try, explorer crashes....I am running the 32 bit version (1st mistake).....I dont know what the problem could be...and help would be appreciated. thanks...

Wtf 20 inches is historic in MN?

right on bro, make sure you wire the tweeters to the xovers... I should have shown that in my paint drawing but my skillz are limited

yup

If you are referring to RCAs, then all LEFT inputs (white) will go to 1 and three. all right inputs (red) will go to channels 2 and 4. so you will need 2 RCA cables...2 red and 2 white. EDIT: if someone has a better idea to wire them then post them up gotta run...later

I have to run for a little bit. I'll be back if you still need help just hold tight or wait for someone else good luck mane. also you have to make sure you set your filters right for this to work well

connect left mid to channel 1....connect rigt mid to channel 2... connect LEFT two tweeters to channel three....put both tweeter positives in +...put both tweeter negatives in - connect RIGHT two tweeters to channel 4.......put both tweeter positives in +...put both tweeter negatives in -

wire the mids on 1 and 2 individually...then wire 2 sets of tweets to 3 and 4 in parallel.