CallMeTy

man i wish i knew ow to do all this computer stuff like you guys. i want to speed up my laptop some kind of way so its back superfast like when i first got it (dell inspiron 1526) but im scared to crack this thing open and mess up something, idk. maybe one day ill have an awesome computer that i cant keep up with. but so far mines cant keep up with me

well i went with the CDT components, i just ordered them. going put them for my frontstage and put the alpines in the rear. keeping the alpine tweets upfront though along with the cdt tweets. hope it sounds good

where would be a good place to get the phoenix golds?

i thought i saw some people say cdt audio was good and cheap, but all the prices im seeing is far from cheap

yea i think that may be too much, i probably should have put coax's i dont need the whole component set for the rear

now that my rear 6.5 alpine type r's are blown thnx to my friend, it time for me to look on the market again. but for some reason im at a lost because on one hand i want a nice midbass speaker for my rears and on the other hand maybe i should be looking at something that can keep up with my future purchases. which will be AQ 15's. and these are coming within the next month. so what would be my most logical choice?

Audioque could be your ticket to.

so z15s cant take 1500rms? is anyone putting 1500 to them?

i was told here on SMD in one of my other topics that its goes like this: HDC3>dc lvl4xl>dc lvl4 the thread is on here somewhere

so is the z15 a copper or aluminum based sub? and most people use copper for daily and aluminum for burping right? and if i read those test results right...the hdc3 gets a tad louder but overall the z15 is a better "sounding" sub. if this is the case ill roll with the hdc3's. is something missing from my logic? *both look like badass subs to me though.

are the z15s v1 still available and if so for how much? (pm if neccessary) im going back and forth between these and hdc3's but need to know how do they compare. im trying to find the best ground pound subs that will match my md2d's. so what would you pair with them? im not trying to spend hella money on the subs. maybe 200-300 range,idk. as far as SQ im guessing i dont need that much from the subs, maybe some. but isnt that what the speakers are for (i can always get different ones to keep up with the subs)

it may be the rcas. the stinger 16guage speaker wire has square insulation along with the stinger brand name on the + side and plain round insulation on the - side, i was anal about keeping this correct, so i dont think i got those mixed up. but the back of the deck has no kind of labels or anything for the rca outputs, so this could be it. idk. i think i got both hpf filters set to 80-90. all the way to the left is 50 and all the way to the right is 1k. i got them both about a quarter turn. and are you saying put the subwoofer setting on six then try to hook up the oscope again to find where the deck clips ?

im using alpine cda 9887. and all i know is after i unplug all four rcas (i have six spots on the back of the deck, if this matters) and play the test tone i can still hear the tone. it may be the factory tweeters playing, i think thats the only thing i left plugged in now that i think about it. so tell me doc, how bad is it. can i be saved?

i got the velleman hps10se. i tried your way and the way on page 2 here: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=39644. when i put it in the rcas it doesnt read anything. just a flat line. so i tried caibrating it and doing it again nothing. and i tried on auto, nothing there either. so i tried the amp gains to just to see if it works and i could see a wave but i could never really get it to square off once i kinda get it there the wave would pop back to a smaller wave. so i just left it at a full wave. i guess imma need one of you guys to help a brotha out. *even after i unplug the rcas from the back of the deck, i can still hear the test tone **my deck reads my rear speakers as being in the rear and fronts in the front, and on the amp 1 and 2 are my fronts 3 and 4 are my rears. BUT to tune the fronts i have to use te filters on channels 3 and 4, and the filters on 1 and 2 to tune my rear speakers. if i switch the rcas then they would be correct on the amp but then my deck would read them as the front speakers being in the back and vice versa

anybody know what setting i should have the oscope on? and i have the componets on channels 1 and 2, and the coaxs on 3 and 4. how should i set the other settings on the amp?