str86diesel

Or Chrysler is still trying to figure out the blend

Yeah, I know exactly what he's talking about... Straight from the Dealers Computer - PB8 64944 Exterior Midnight Blue Prl 06-06 PB6 69015 Exterior Marine Blue Prl 07-07

Congrats AMatt...Welcome to the team.

If you go over to a Chrysler dealer, open the passenger door and the paint code will be on a sticker inside the glovebox I can call some peeps that I know..but I can guarantee you they are first going to say the above.

the stock HX30 wastegate is set for 25-27 lbs (stock rating is around 320hp at the crank)

But you also gotta know that this daily driver was doing a tad over 800hp..

Hey bro..no problem. This section isn't about "me" it's about us helping out our bruthas. Feel free to step in and help out. You do bring up some very valid points on shifting and wastegating. As far a the twins, I ran several different setups in both my personal 2000 Cummins and my race truck. For my personal truck I stuck with an HX55 and HX40 setup. On a normal day, punching the throttle would put out about 75lbs of boost. If I turned on the drugs, they'd get up to 102lbs. Took me about 2 1/2 years working with a group of turbo engineers to get it perfected.

You'll still get the spool up sound of a turbo, the only thing that BOV's are typically used for are to regulate backpressure. Bov's will prevent the turbo from "huffing" or spinning backwards if too much back pressure is applied to the turbo. However, on normal scenarios back pressure is only created when you are full bore into the throttle, have the turbo spooled up and then just completely let off the throttle. There really is an art to driving with a turbo to gain it's maximum efficiency. Personally, i'd skip on the BOV, that is one of those items that was created for really high HP or to help stupid people to stop breaking turbo's. If you wastegate your turbo right, you shouldn't need anything more. As I have stated before, I've ran multiple sets of twins at very high pressures and never had any need for a BOV. I'm definately not going to stop you from getting it if you want it. But I suggest, first you build your setup, run with it and then re-visit if you need a BOV

I just went and double checked and it is actually in the ECU. Typically all fuel injected cars have the governors in the ECU, so that dealers and such and see if anyone has tampered with the vehicle.

hellz yeah...shoot down the coast on 1

Yep..but typical your wastegate is at the turbo, releasing excessive pressure so that the turbo doesn't over spool. On gassers, the wastegate usually opens about 10-12 psi. I have ran twins in one of my trucks well over 100psi with an oversized Intercooler and never installed a BOV, that's why I ask why install a BOV. BTW..that's a damn nice ride.

Even adding a tuner will not override the ECU, in which is where the governer is located. It's part of the programming. Tuners can clip voltages, but that's it.. northsydryd - as stated above

Any reason why you would be using a BOV over a wastegate?

<cough>Diesel<cough> (with respect to Burrito, I didn't put Cummins ) (i'm just play'n with ya mang.....I'm a dodge guy too. Burrito...now...he's a trader )

Good Point....I'd upgrade to a real truck A diesel perhaps

interesting...did you pay extra for those things??? lol Non of my truck have ever had those. I just went and check my seats and sure enough..I have about 3 inches of insulation back there...no vents.

Can you post up a pic of them. I've owned serveral Ram Quad Cabs (ranging from 99 to 2006) and have never had any vents across the back wall. All of my trucks have had about 2-3 inches of insulation on the inside wall, then a bracket on the back side of the wall connecting to the bed (to prevent rubbing). Kev

that's pretty sick...reminds me of the Aprilia 125

Just a warning..if this starts turning into a cop chasing thread...due to the post above, I will shut this thread down. Yes, the governer can be turned off, but there is no legal reason go above 112, let along the top speed limit of the state (typically 75) on any city street.

Oh...let me help ya out with this one.. Get your azz outta the chair.....get that new truck in the shop AND GET SOME PICS FOO

Burrito...quick thought too. Before you dive into a non dodge diesel..here is a couple of items to research. 1) Emissions..how strick are they there? I have to do a dyno pull ($75) and prove my opacity rating before i can get my tags. 2) How much are fuel, air and oil filters? I pay like $10 for fuel filters which have to be swapped out every 7500 miles, where as the ford filters are like $60 locally and have to be swapped out like every 10-15k (this stuff adds up quick on the cost of owning a diesel) 3) price of fuel? at 1/4 tank..i pay about $75 to fill up my truck every 1.5 weeks.... In general you might find, especially in CA that owning a diesel might not be as cost effective as a bigger gasser motor...just some thoughts.

So that everyone can read and be up to date...Burrito's looking at a 2001 Duramax..so here's what I pm'd him for informatino on it.

Chevy must have cut corners with this rig. My truck has 2 gauge wiring between my alt and batteries. Which should flow some decent current.

Start at the alternator and chase the wires. The alt will run to the primary battery (not both)....then do the big 3 off of this battery.

Gasoline motors have the same problem mang....it's caused from lack of compression at idle. Yes I have fixed many motors both gas an diesel because of this.