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I would also recomend looking into Memphis. I ue some of there products and love 'em. And why all one brand? Mix it up use the things that you like the sound of and what will get the job dne the best. How about a Memphis 5 channel, and some Mb Quart refrance components, the Alpine PXA-H701 processor, and maybee a single 12" Rockford dual 2 ohm sub in a properly designed enclosure, and control it all from the Alpine deck. Just my thoughts. But you need to listen to the comps and the subs, to find out which one you like the most. And to let you know what I did, I set one preset for RTA with it all flat, then another for SQ, one for daily driving, ane the final for SPL. The reason for so many is, I turn off every thing ecept the sub for SPL, and I have very different settings for daily than SQ. SQ is setup so the judges like it, daily is so I like it, and flat is 1.) for RTA and 2.) because it helps me set the others off of it. If you have any questions, ask I will do my best, and if you feel like it look at my profile, it tells a little of what I have done and what equipment I use. Also the best thing tou can do is lean to be able to install stuff of your own. It will give you more sense of prid in your install, and if there is ever a problem, you will more apt af fixing it that spending money and have somebody else fix it for you. And, if ever someone were to ask you a question about your audio setup yo could tell them something other than... "um, uh, yeah, I'm not sure what your talking about". Anyhow, I hope my rambling helped you out in some way.

no shit... I lived in 29 palms for 4 years, tryed to find a comp when I was working in fontana, no luck, no you say there is a comp in yucca, kick me in the balls and feed me baby food, DAMIT

ok, so your asking between two SPL subs, the BTL and an L7, wich would have better sound quality in a daily? Is that right? Hmmm, well, I am in the same situation... I am looking for a beast 8" to use in a pure SQ vehicle, but have the ability to get retarded loud. Anyone care to help me out as well? If it is between those two only, I would prolly lean twards the FI. Now I havent heard the FI, but from the reviews I read on here, and looking at the specs, and having had 4 L7 15"s in my crx, I would think the money would be on the FI, in the right enclosure mine you.

. yeah its just easyer to put em both in the same side then, thanks for the knowledge, or at least conferming what it thought.

bigger...... nice!!!!!! I am always concerned about blocking the port mouth against the side of the trunk, or against the wheel-well. does it realy have that afect? or does it not matter. Also, could it cause noise if its up against the side of the vehilce?

I ussualy try and have my port mouth in th same side as the cone. Cause I like to build my boxes to fit into the vehicle side to side and take up the least amout of space and be able to do a nice clean install. what kind of numbers did that thing do, and at what freq? how much power to it and what vehicle?

have you got a pic of the horn you did, or the design of said box. I am really thinking about the dd1508, but in a t-line, how much more space does a horn take up?

yes you can wire multiple drivers to get to 1 ohm, I'm talkng about a single driver at 1 ohm..... for my application. sorry bout the thread jack.

RE... nice yes, but they can only take 175 watts. And they are dual 4, i need them to handle more power and be at one ohm.

I've been looking into 8's as well, but only one for the trailblazer. I was looking at either the DD 1508, or the CVR. I can get only the CVR in a 1 ohm configuration, and the DD in a 2 ohm, iI need 1 ohm.

Hey Fish, look into Memhpis... I know they had an 8" component set 15-MSYNC8. You could just do a nice kick panel with that, get your mids nice and strong and have the tweet right there as well. Maybe add a 1" soft dome tweet up top to fix the over-hang issue from the dash, and your done. Cause, yeah, I would'nt wanna start hacken on a new vehicle, at least not before trying other options first. MClass Multi-Sync Speakers 15-MSYNC8 The versatile speakers. MClass multisynchronous components boast a unique design that allows installation of the tweeter either nested on the same axis as the midrange speaker or detached and mounted separately. • Two-way passive crossover with tweeter protection • Removable pure aluminum dome tweeter • Vented dust cap • Carbon fiber cones • Kapton® voice coils • Polyurethane surround

What if you were to just tape over the tweet and sail, stretch some grill cloth over it, glass it, trim out the tweet opening, sand it, spray it with vinyl dye, reinstall, enjoy!!! or you could even hit it with some stuff expanding foam, shape it, add a little resin, sand, a little body filler, sand, spray with vinyl dye, reinstall, enjoy!!!

what do think about em? Well, I know that the uglyest subs perform best.... I'm jelous, I wanna be as loud as your gonna be, great find!!! I can't wait to see the build and some numbers...

Thats it right there.... SQ, with the ability to boom... I mean, whats the point of having an audio setup in your car if it can get super loud, but it sounds like ass... I also feel that a "system" is - Aftermarket head unit, aftermarket speakers, wheather they are 2 way, 3 way, or even a decent set of coaxals, aftermarket rear fill if applicable, one or more amplifiers, a processor of some kind, a well constructed sub enclosure, and a SAFE clean instalation..... Not a prefab box from "Best Try" with a hodge podge of subs in diffrent sizes and manufacturers with torn surrounds and cracked cones on factory speakers powered from the stock radio, with a hi-low converter to a 10k watt Rampage or Road Master amp, and power wire run through the driver side door jam... I hope that I don't offend any one with that statment, but I am tired of trying to help people, that say " yo I gots this Bad ass system in my ride", that think that what they have is better that every thing or every body else. I do feel that there is also a learnign curve, and your first may be all you could afford, however, it should not be about getting as many subs as you can in your trunk so that it rattles as much as possible... If you take a little time to ask for help or research equipment, you will acctualy be able to get loud and sound good, cheaper and safer. Sorry every body... It just bothers me to no end when people talk shit about someone's system like what they have is so much better and that they are gonna beat every one there, and when it comes time to pull into the lane they can only do a 127dB with 3 12'' and 2000 watts, and that the judge did'nt like them thats why they got a crappy SQ score, even though they only have a factory radio and one speaker is blown and another is intermitant.....

Fish, I see a lot of me in your build...... Do you have the 8's already? If not I would suggest trying a 6.5" midbass in the door, the midrange in the kick and the tweet in the dash or the a pilar. Make sure that you matt the door well for the midbass. and yes should use some type of rear fill... not much, just a little. Hows the t-line comming????

yeah fish, read up on that t-line thread, great info on there,( thanks again foreverbumpn ) and its not really any harder than building a slot ported box, its real easy as long as you passed 6th grade math... i read that thread a few times, and did sum research on the net as well, but I am no at all unhappy!!! If you are a true SQ guy like me you will find great sound from this enclosure, and it will still beat up the block... if you have any questions hit me up i will help any way i can.

right... a bandpass will get loud, it that freq range, but it will be somwhat muddy, and unless tuned low, it wont get there. band pass is out

Hey Fish...This is my view. I went from a lot of 10" drivers slot-ported to a single 12" sealed(with almost 800 watts less power), to a single 12" in a t-line... the t-line plays almost as loud as the 8 10"s but tighter than the sealed, and it gets super low!!! A t-line is the way to go. I did t-line for a single mtx 4500 8" with 100 watts, tuned it to 39Hz, its doing a 134.9 dB and it can get super low for a bottom end 8". Please try it you will not be disappointed. Use the driver specs and do not over power the driver, t-lines ar very very very efficcient.

lol I looked at a CB 700 this morning. the only cybal it had, had the dome broken out of it and was chained on to the rest of it. the only piece of hardware was a stand with a peice of somthing broken off and jammed into it to hold the cymbal on. ha ha lol what a pyn of junk. I would install pyle in my car before spending money on that kit.... we are looking at a decent Mapex kit and Pearl that is a little beat up from what I can tell from the pics

Are there any drummers on SMD? I am looking into a few kits for my nephew. He is just starting out, but I don't want him to get a crappy kit. I am playing on a 10 piece Rogers kit wiht shells made by Yamaha. I am looking at either a Pearl or Mapex, with a deal to posibly trade him my kit for a 5 piece, I'm looking to down size... But I need to know what others think about the Mapex kits... Any one, any input?

Are there any drummers on SMD? I am looking into a few kits for my nephew. He is just starting out, but I don't want him to get a crappy kit. I am playing on a 10 piece Roger made by Yamaha. I am looking at either a Pearl or Mapex, with a deal to posibly trade him my kit for a 5 piece.. But I need to know what other think about the Mapex kits... Any one, any input?

well. if you remove the seats under the box, then cut sum 1'' square hollow stock to the different lengths needed to keep the box level,( as you said that the floor was super uneven) , to make a few "legs", then use some long ass lag bolts or all thread and go from the inside of the box down through the ''legs" into the floor where the seats bolted down. now your box is secure and you have an area under the box to hide your amp. when i put my box in i did this and bolted the box to where the factory tie dows were. removed those bolts, went throught the box, through the battry try and into the floor.

50s with two 8's... wow... thats super impressive.

No it needs to do 40+ on tones. But if it does more its ok :hairtrick: