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About jbeez

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  • Birthday 07/22/1979

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  1. I just picked up a new mustang gt premium w/ B&O 12 speaker system, bass is a little anemic, does anyone have wiring diagram info for these systems, or even where the OEM amp is? I wanna add a monoblock and 1 or 2 subs with a bass knob, but I need to figure out the best place to tap signal and get a remote turnon. Thanks
  2. DD1 is checking the electrical signal, your DSP adjustments are to change the behavior of the physical signal leaving the speakers which aren't being measured by the DD1, that's picked up on your measurement mic. You should set your gains with everything flat using the dd1 and no speakers hooked up, then go back through and do your EQ measurements with your mic and make sure it still behaves properly, the level is changing so it may need a little adjustment but the curve should be generally the same. So at the end of the day after you flat everything for your gains and restore your eq setting
  3. i dunno...ill let you know in about 5 or 10 years. lol. Did you see what WAS there? it will be fine. HUGE improvement over what was there in terms of capacity and looks. I was just picking your brain, I'm sure you do way more installs in a month than I would probably do in my entire lifetime. Are you having issues with the charging? Someone mentioned something. If you have a new F150 I think they have the ford BMS like my Taurus does, factory amp clamps to tell the pcm the draw so it can ramp up the alternator output. When I upgraded my factory ground up front my voltage dropped, I had to
  4. What are your thoughts on using bare copper crimp lugs on something that may see the elements vs a tinned copper lug?
  5. They can be horrible, check this out for a great example of what happens https://youtu.be/Enlri-V9in4
  6. I've been wrestling with my setup for a little while, half of the system is a mystery because of the limited tools I have access to. I have a '14 ford taurus SHO with the ford mytouch system. Some functions of the vehicle happen to be controlled through the factory headunit and no where else, so I can't easily get rid of it. So what I have right now is this, Factory Sony DSP front door speakers+tweeter outputs to highlevel input of a Helix DSP Helix DSP 4 chans of RCA out to a rockford fosgate 800a4 for highs Helix DSP 2 chans of RCA out to zapco c2k 9.0xd 4 kenetik hc800 batteries in trun
  7. me and a friend from tech school in '98 put my single 12" polk db sub in his hyundai accent for lows, powered by one side of a radio shack amp I cant recall where we appropriated that from, the highs were from 2 15" electrovoice? guitar speakers and 2 piezo electric tweeters. our source was a aiwa walkman with a 3 position EQ slider on the front of it. pretty ghetto but a 12" polk sealed box in a hatch back put out a surprisingly loud sound to us at the time. I've come a long ways from that heh
  8. Thanks so much Steve, I got the wire today, and the DD1 I ordered so I cant stop lugging that huge oscope out just for gain setting lol
  9. I just wanted to post an update, got my VM1 and I love it. The worst part about it is trying to pick a place to mount it in my interior! It's already helped me immensely. I was able to monitor my voltage from the front seat while I articulated the volume and song selections and from that I was able to figure out voltage drop wasn't my issue. I've been fighting this system for the last year, I finally got my oscope out and checked my levels and gains, ended up pulling a pc of gear out of the signal path, and the final hurdle I have now is that the PSI subs I ordered 2yrs ago with 1ohm coils a
  10. you wouldn't need the pcm repgrommed. What vehicle do you have? I've never heard of a Ford vehicle having the ground loop thing like GM vehicles. its a 2014 ford taurus SHO Here is a pic of the loop right near the front engine battery https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/euyhRKjyVIACo2WZuOd17gC2Nfjx-Z44SwkgaQcRpco=w614-h347-no
  11. I did look into alternators, I didn't find much for my vehicle TBH. I can buy a factory 200amp version that is the same size, but even then I'm not sure if I need to have my PCM reprogrammed. It seems ford has tied fuel economy in with the alt output. Infact when I first grounded my factory battery to the chassis I didn't run it through that ring and I was having crazy voltage fluctuations. Once I took that off the car ran way way better and voltage was stable and higher. Then I ran that 4awg through the ring(might even be an 8 i forget now) and that helped a little bit. Basically I can't f
  12. I'm having some voltage drop issues I believe, so I actually just ordered one of these meters. My question is, do I wire it right where the power goes into my amp?(zapco c2k 9.0xd) or should I wire it to a battery bank thats in my spare tire well about 2-3ft away from my amp? https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p2osXMW3eA0/U__i3Uy0slI/AAAAAAAAB2o/lmBb5eS4dhI/w1183-h669-no/IMAG0442.jpg I have knu kollosus 0awg from front car battery('14 taurus SHO factory 650cca group65 batt) to the bank in the back there, it actually goes to the stinger relay. I have a 0awg ground cable coming in there that
  13. Just finished this up, I might have to redo the connection to the front frame as I don't think it was ground down good and I forgot to bring my star washers so it doesn't even have that on it. positive ring terminal grinded to fit ford alternator positive plastic shroud https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1VbLIdns-nw/U3QQkR-VNnI/AAAAAAAABLg/zpzijMjTw1g/w356-h630-no/IMAG0245.jpg grounds through frame rail https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QRpLL0o2ljQ/U3QQpaofzjI/AAAAAAAABMQ/mQggZUdOd7U/w356-h630-no/IMAG0249.jpg factory welded nut in frame rail attached alt ground to. (need to take this off
  14. My big 3, the alt power cable to the battery factory goes to a starter solenoid and not directly to the battery. Should I lay a supplemental 0awg from the alt + to the battery or the starter terminal?
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