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02Blazer
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Posts posted by 02Blazer
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that 6-link is fine , go with the poly bushing rod ends . they will last longer and if you do wear them out , they are easily replaced . just stay away from hiem joints , they make a bunch of noise and wear out quick !!!
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this is very well explained. the reason i think that it is unnoticeable though is because the volume of air needed for the longer line isnt a massive change. i could be wrong about that but it seems right in my mind lol. correct if not i dont wanna put up false info.
hey bro , why are you even posting if you really don't know what the hell you are talking about , all this speculation on your part and posting about is worthless ......
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i would relocate the tank if possible if it was me to avoid modifying the kit. ive seen the wishbone kit your talking about and it seemed pretty sweet but ive never actually had any experience with it.
it is easier to modify a wishbone than to put in a fuel cell or move the gas tank ......
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all that seperates pressur from the bags from the tank is the valve . it is not like you have to replace/fill the line . if you gain any amount of speed of lift , it is very , very minimal . i have seen it done(demonstrated when my buddy tried it to see if there was a difference ) he had the bottle(nitrogen) at 300 psi and when he hoppped the front end , it didn't gain by having the valves any closer to the bag
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thanks for that info
here is a shit load of info on them http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/sanden-compressor-facts-and-info-178969/
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here are the brackets you need http://gravity-werx.com/97-03fordf-150frontbrackets.aspx
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i already wanted 1/2" everything.
only thing im not sure about is cups for the front.
i have a 99 f150
bolt in cups for my truck.
http://www.theslamstore.com/product_p/fc-150.htm
i dont know the height of the cups i need.
seems through that link in your sig that if you tell them what size wheel/tire combo , stock/drop spindles, and stock/tubular control arms , that they can sell you what you need . i have no clue for your truck
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if you want a fast system go with 8 1/2" valves and 1/2" line and that should be plenty . if you were going to hop it , that's were the 3/4" valves and 3/4" or 1" line and running nitrogen at 300-600 psi !!! anyhow , youshould be very happy with the 1/2" valve and 1/2" line setup even at 150 psi
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ok in the future i will bag my ext 2001 dodge fullsize truck. and my bro-in-law told me that he heard that you can use the ac compressor to lift and lower the bags. dont need a tank just the solenoids and lines. and if this is true is it cheaper and better. or just retarded.
you can't just use any air cond. compressor , look into finding a Sanden from an older model jeep cherokee years 81-90 , the jeep comanchee years 86-90 , 81-90 jeep wagoneer , 87-90 jeep wrangler . you want the Sanden 7 compressor , these things will pump out about 300 psi !!!! and yes , youy use a tank . you are basically replacing a 12 volt compressor with this engine driven compressor .
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Well obviously they will be in the back of my S10. I'm not looking to do anything crazy. Just want it to lay kit when at a show or parked then pick up and go... may make some brackets so i can drag some titanium blocks but i dont think that is gonna effect the bag choice much. And I'm not ever gonna haul anything besides when i wall in about a year and have about 500-600lbs worth of system in the back.
don't worry about the weight , 600 lbs. is nothing for bags !!! as for a kit , i would suggest the super lift wishbone kit from suicide doors , tho you may have to modify the wishbone to clear the gas tank if you keep it in it's stock location .
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If valves are closer to the bags thats just a faster reaction right?
in my opinion , no . there is air in the bag and all the way back to the valve , under the same amount of pressure . so to me if the hose is 10' long or 6" , it will have the same pressure apllied by the air added to it by the valve opening allowing that extra air flow . doesn't that make sense ???
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this is just my opinion , but stay away from Ekstensive metal works , they are a hit or miss shop , and when they miss , they do hack jobs that take forever , take it for what it's worth ........
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ASCO valves are very good dependable valves that are usually cheaper than SMC's , parkers , airlift and GC valves ...
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their shipping is typically 10% higher than anywhere else...if not more. try ricky at whynotfab.com thats the place i would order if i didnt have wholesale access. only reason i went with suicide doors is cuz it was free shipping and my guy didnt have the right fittings.
suicide doors has the best customer service , if something went wrong , call them , they will take care of it .........
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the cup set-ups from S.D are BOLT-IN , NOT WELD IN . you should buy a complete kit ( for both front and back ) so you can save some money instead of buying everything seperately . you don't have to do the rear now but do it later , by buying the whole kit - valves ,tank, compressors, air line , switches/switch box , fittings , etc... then get a front setup ( bags , bolt-in cups (don't get floating cups ) the bag fittings ) you can probably save a couple hundred bucks . you asked what it would cost , i assume for the parts , your looking around $1000-$1300 for the parts , that includes almost everything you need for the whole truck besides a 4-link , rear bag brackets , notch , and any crossmember(s) you need for your specific truck ( you will need a new cross member to raise your gas tank ) if you have an extended cab , you will need a new carrier bearing crossmember . any way , you can always buy things piece by piece , you might look into some lightly used stuff , but what ever you do DON'T BUY SHIT FROM CHASSIS TECH / A.I.M / JUSTBAGIT !!!!!!! you will buy a bunch of crap that ain't road worthy and will fail on you !!!!! good luck on your project , hope to hear the progress ..........
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are you off rps by chance?
what's rps ??????
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i like that way of thinking alot more than having you have somebody weld up a frame that YOU WILL HAVE TO MODIFY . i hope your thinking this whole thing out and planning it correctly . isn't your dad a welder ??? , or someone you know , i thought that you have said that before . anyhow , you could do it your self , IF , you have an experienced welder and a mechanic ( or some one with mechanical knowledge ) , get the body off the chassis , strip the frame down , remove all rear suspension , have your welder mark the front frame after the control arms ( by the firewall ) have him Z the frame rails with your new frame material ( preferrably 3''x3'' with 1/4'' wall thickness minimum ) and build from there back adding in cross members and notches and such till your ready for the body mounts and 4-link placement , also figure in fuel and brake line placement plus gas tank placement . there are probably another hundred more litttle things also but thats just a rough outline . i know you want to be hands on with your project so DO IT !!!! just make sure you enlist the help of a ASE mechanic and a certified welder to be there with you every step of the way . take notes and a gazillion pictures every step of the way . YOU CAN DO IT !!!!! just research it alot more , all the way down to materials and such . having someone weld you up a frame that you have to re-fabricate just doesn't make any sense to me , that's alot of time and money not very well spent . so keep us informed and let me know what your planning , till then ..................not saying its 100% going to be perfect, he told me there might be minor adjustments, idk, we will see..i dont have the money to pay someone to build it yet, and i dont really want to. i wanna get it all, cut the tubing myself, and get someone to weld it together (not like the last time) but a good welder this time. i eventually want to learn to weld as well
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how so? hes a CAD designer, same thing as if a shop had my truck to measure on, then designed a print in CAD then built it from that..........
good luck then ....................
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go over to rangerpowersports.com and PM slammedxonair
or hit him up via his site www.illusivefabrications.com his name is Brian, he can tell u anything u need to know bout getting a 1st gen explorer low..his is bagged and body dropped
he is not '' bagging it '' . he wants to stop the rear end sag cause of the excess weight from batteries and subs/enclosures . he needs a air spring helper kit , exactly like the one he is looking at ( the link he posted )..................
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i've got a 92 explorer shes walled with 4 15 apxx's
at the moment i have 3 normal batteries in the back and 4 amps and shes already sagging pretty good
as you can see by the pics shes getting pretty low and i recently bought 16 batts at 70 pounds each so 1120 extra pounds and i know she wont handle it as you can see in the pics
i was looking into buying this kit
http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bi...ir-springs.html
and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with the kit and if its enough for what i need any and all suggestions are welcome
thanks for your time
for your needs , that should do it . those kits are pretty easy to do your self . good luck ..........
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remember from your first posting about your explorer ??? well i'll say it again , YOU MUST HAVE THE EXPLORER THERE WHERE YOU'RE GONNA DO THE STOCK FLOOR BODY DROP CHASSIS!!!! unless the guy has an explorer frame and body there to copy over to a frame jig , you are taking a big gamble !! why can't you have it done somewhere close to you ???? if your having trouble finding some one to do it in your area , go to a truck/car show , ask other local or in your state , truck owners or club members where they got their trucks done at and try to go that route . but if your dead set on this guy in NY , tow or ship your truck there ................ btw , having blue prints for a stock chassis is not gonna tell him how or where to make body mounts , 4-link mounts and tabs . please take my advice , you will thank me in the end when you got an ass-draggin , layed out ride that functions as good as it looks .......odd situation here, but here it goesim having a guy design me blueprints for a new bagged and stock floor body dropped chassis for my 97 explorer. problem is, he's in new york, im in florida. rather than me measuring and messing something up, id rather him have a paper in front of him showing the stock frame and all the measurements and body mounts and all, and he can use that to design my new one. i know Ford has them, and other body shops too. ive gotten 2 different documents, went through hell to get them as well, and they just arent as detailed as the guy needs to design the frame. he can design some but still needs more measurements. i understand there might be a COUPLE things that ill just have to measure myself for him, but i know the ford document should be plenty detailed enough for him to use.
ive called numerous dealers, and non will give me the print out, some say they dont have it, one said they cant give it to me becuase if something messes up ill go back to them.
if ANYONE knows someone that can get it for me somehow, id appreciate it.
its a 1997 ford explorer, 2 wheel drive, 5.0L v8, 4 door.
most dealers say their systems only go back 10 years, making them able to have access only back until 1998 or 1999, but explorers until 2001 (4 doors) had the same body style so the chassis should be the same as well. so any of those years would work unless they can get a 1997.
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Imo.. it doesnt get any sexier than some side drafts in a mini truck..
click on the right portion of the link , it's actually another link with the turbo set-up for that engine !!!!!!!!!!!!
i couldn't seperate the two different links .. -
you know this is a perfect chance to upgrade to a v-8
not in california !!! , way too much bullshit to go thru to get it properly registered , plus i don't got that kind of money to get a v-8 , tranny , and rear-end , plus getting all new tabs for my 4-link and re-welding them . would be nice but i don't think so . btw , i don't drive over 80 mph in my truck , so there is no need . if i wanted a fast truck i would get a fully built 22re from LC ENGINEERING , maybe their stage 3 forced induction motor with a t3/t4 turbo and 15-20 lbs. of boost
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/Pro...34-D72A7C8EC8C6 http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/Pro...81-CA0193D97924 -
Try S&S engine. We've bought a bunch of engines from them and they've been great, they've even shipped to Canada from Spokane..
http://rebuiltautoengines.com/
We've bought 200ci Ford I6s from them, haven't had any issues, there great to talk to.
im gonna go to this shop that is also a full machine shop , they pull your engine and fully rebuild your engine and warranty the engine and work , for around 1200.00 , i think thats a very good deal !!! . it's what i should of done in the first place when the original engine blew ......... but thanks , i think if i had a good size budget to work with , i would of got a built 22re from LC ENGINEERING .COM , they put out some badass engines , they also are very costly , too much for me
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i couldn't seperate the two different links ..
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Which type of Bushing for the $
in Air Ride / Hydraulics - Got Switches? Want Switches? Post here!
Posted
taking another look at it , i noticed it has a pan hard bar , not good !! if you run big wheels and have minimal tire clearence to the insides of your quarter panels or fenders , the panhard bar can and will rub cause the cycling of the rear suspension with a panhard bar will make the rear end move side to side . your best route with a six link would be to incorporate a wish bone . take a look at how KP components does there s10 kit , that is what you want to do for your full size truck .........