02Blazer

i thought you just designed the 6th but other people built it .

that's your opinion of autotech , mines the opposite , their customer service sucks unless you think talking to the receptionist is actually some service . and they are pretty local to me . i wouldn't use one of their alts if you gave it to me , actually wouldn't use one if you paid me ....

RS Platinum 15 ..

the web designer who created the sliding topic banners should be fired , why did they fuck up a perfectly fine website ....

post it up on facebook group '' alternators classifieds ''

it's not really a budget sound deadener , but to be truthful , sound deadening should not be cheaped out on , i would suggest if anything that you should go for a premium deadener like GP STFU , Ampre Audio Vibraflex , or Second Skin . buy some and install it and when you can , buy more and continue till you are where you want to be as far as the amount of noise reduced . installing shitty deadener is a bitch to remove and replace . you want to install it once and be done .. if i were you i'd get a 20ft. box of GP Car Audio STFU and buy more if you need more in time.

i guess not , oh well ...

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running it at .35 ohms ! good luck with that if i were you i'd put the build on hold , save up to get a Korean board

you should have upgraded the sub !!

take the pods off like that and wrap that black part or at least paint it to match the rest of the door and then stand back and admire the difference !! you can thank me later , LOL !! 👍

are the speaker baffles you made bolted /screwed to the door panel(black part )? can they be taken back off ??

obviously your gonna need a high out put alt , a stock one will suffice but you want an aftermarket alt that will put out the most amperage at idle . for lithium bank builds , you're looking for quick amperage discharge to your bank quickly to replenish your bank , i do not recommend you get a a 390 or 400 amp alt but get a good 270 or 320 max , built by a good manufacturer like CES, Mechman, , Singer,etc. have them set the voltage to 15.5 volts , and get a 80ah yinglong or Planno 48ah bank , you be good to go . then you can get rid AGM's !! and just use a battery delete , your truck will run off that lithium bank . 👍

just a suggestion , wrap the rest of the black part of the door panel , leaving the black panel makes it look unfinished 👍

i have my Blazer on 20 x 8 reverse wire wheels at the moment , was thinking of putting it on 22 x 8 standard wire wheels . wanted pics for ideas , thanks

what welding cable brand that had silicone in it ??? just for informing others , i don't use welding cable .

pic of blazer on 22's

take out the 8 ga & run 16 ga wire . 8 ga is not needed for mids and tweeters .

what the hell is all that ???

that kinda what your doing sorry to say .

why did you need 100 feet of power wire ?? how many runs you doing ? i have 2 runs of positive from battery delete to lithium bank in back and two frame grounds from bank to frame (already had big three) and three positive runs ,three negative runs all 2 feet each . i bought 40 ft. of positive(red) wire &16 ft. of negative wire(black) , what i'm saying is that i hope you're measuring out what you need and buying it rather then just buying it by the spool , might save you some money and then could afford better cable .

make sure you use glue lined heat shrink , welding cable is not tinned . to each is own , i would never buy welding cable because it's not as flexible and also , what i just mentioned , it's not tinned . i have thousands invested in subs , mids , tweeters , amps , head unit , etc.. a shit ton of other accessories like battery terminals , lugs, lithium banks , enclosure etc.. no way i'm gonna try to cheap out and save a few bucks on electrical !! don't take it wrong , use what you like and can afford , i do , but use the right tool for the job . 👍

wrong section to post this in , post it in subwoofer section..

like the title says , has it ever been tested or rating applied to them . mostly referring to triple fuse holder and up . hopefully Steve will see this and chime in !

get with Corey Dean at SPL Audio ( look him up on Facebook ) for a new motor and re-cone , he will build it 200% better , or just buy a new sub cause i doubt the cracked magnet will be covered