02Blazer

need a E400.4 ?? got a new in the box one , never used , hit me up , getting rid of it cheap

they look to be the same tinsel material , just one weave was puller tighter then the other , meaning the wider one's weave is looser if you can envision that.

had a similar experience with jims , i ended up buying similar product from Toolmaker and i am very happy i did !! as far as machined parts and other accessories , i stick with SMD and Toolmaker ...

can you change my name from toyonbags to 02Blazer , please! thank you

put a d2700 in there , you should be able to fit it

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thanks , i'll just run it without the fuse , just a Mechman 240 like the one in the build

i also have a blazer and am about to do the big three , i see you didnt fuse the power wire to the alternator , do you think it should be fused ?? i know it's only a 12''-14'' run of wire and to me , putting a fuse between seems not nessasary , is that what you thought ?

can you give me a link to what kind of tubing you used for the rear glass please 1

good luck then , hope it turns out the way you want it , just keep in mind what i said

i mentioned the Cando arms cause i feel anyone looking into using Air Ride Tech. stuff is not trying to have to much fabbed and wants a DIY kinda setup .....

if it was me , i would not use shockwaves for anything , use some 6" bags up front , those shockwaves' cost is ridiculus !!!! if i were you i would call up Cando Specialties and get some control arms from them for 760 bucks and buy some Slam Specialties RE6 bags , done deal here is the link for Cando Specialties , they have parts for nissans - http://www.candospecialties.com/

which ever side the panhard bar is connected to the frame , when the vehicle is raised up , the axle will move the same way . the more lift , the more side to side travel . panhard bars are very popular on hotrods cause they have short ranges of travel . when you are looking at up to 10-15" of travel on most truck air suspensions , the panhard bar is just not a viable option .

for the "roll steer" you are talking about , the triangluted bars or panhard bar takes care of that . the reason for the same size bars ( take a triangulated 4-link for example , the lower bars and the triangulated bars need to be the same length ) is to keep proper the proper pinion angle thru the axis(travel) of the 4-link . as far as the muffler/exhaust , you should have the end of the exhaust (muffler tip) end about a foot before the axle . for the end of the tip , use a turn down (aimed either at the ground or at least away from gas lines , airline and bags or any thing else that will be affected by the heat ) and about the panhard bar , what do you mean by it being "wide" ???

the dogleg length will be determined by your wheel size ..

as far as the length of the 4-link bars , keep them as close to the same length as you can !!!! if you say you have only a 1/4" space between your tire/wheel to your quarter panel , i really don't think you should go with the panhard bar , but that is your choice . if it was me , i would not even consider it .......

i don't know about you but there is nothing better than flyin' down the freeway doing 100 mph dragging , throwing a mean ass shower of sparks

that is not accurate at all !!! you might lose 1 hp , not even noticeable .these compressors have clutches on them so there is no power lost when they are not filling the tank . it takes about 35-55 seconds to fill a 5 gallon tank to about 200-250 psi , that's if it's empty , to refill the tank (when the pressure switch is activated ) it will take half of that . so to say you would lose gas milelage and horsepower is simply not true

taking another look at it , i noticed it has a pan hard bar , not good !! if you run big wheels and have minimal tire clearence to the insides of your quarter panels or fenders , the panhard bar can and will rub cause the cycling of the rear suspension with a panhard bar will make the rear end move side to side . your best route with a six link would be to incorporate a wish bone . take a look at how KP components does there s10 kit , that is what you want to do for your full size truck .........

that 6-link is fine , go with the poly bushing rod ends . they will last longer and if you do wear them out , they are easily replaced . just stay away from hiem joints , they make a bunch of noise and wear out quick !!!

hey bro , why are you even posting if you really don't know what the hell you are talking about , all this speculation on your part and posting about is worthless ......

it is easier to modify a wishbone than to put in a fuel cell or move the gas tank ......

all that seperates pressur from the bags from the tank is the valve . it is not like you have to replace/fill the line . if you gain any amount of speed of lift , it is very , very minimal . i have seen it done(demonstrated when my buddy tried it to see if there was a difference ) he had the bottle(nitrogen) at 300 psi and when he hoppped the front end , it didn't gain by having the valves any closer to the bag

here is a shit load of info on them http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/sanden-compressor-facts-and-info-178969/

here are the brackets you need http://gravity-werx.com/97-03fordf-150frontbrackets.aspx