02Blazer

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what welding cable brand that had silicone in it ??? just for informing others , i don't use welding cable .

that kinda what your doing sorry to say .

why did you need 100 feet of power wire ?? how many runs you doing ? i have 2 runs of positive from battery delete to lithium bank in back and two frame grounds from bank to frame (already had big three) and three positive runs ,three negative runs all 2 feet each . i bought 40 ft. of positive(red) wire &16 ft. of negative wire(black) , what i'm saying is that i hope you're measuring out what you need and buying it rather then just buying it by the spool , might save you some money and then could afford better cable .

make sure you use glue lined heat shrink , welding cable is not tinned . to each is own , i would never buy welding cable because it's not as flexible and also , what i just mentioned , it's not tinned . i have thousands invested in subs , mids , tweeters , amps , head unit , etc.. a shit ton of other accessories like battery terminals , lugs, lithium banks , enclosure etc.. no way i'm gonna try to cheap out and save a few bucks on electrical !! don't take it wrong , use what you like and can afford , i do , but use the right tool for the job . 👍

stick with the Knuconceptz , welding cable is too stiff to work with to me

need a E400.4 ?? got a new in the box one , never used , hit me up , getting rid of it cheap

they look to be the same tinsel material , just one weave was puller tighter then the other , meaning the wider one's weave is looser if you can envision that.

had a similar experience with jims , i ended up buying similar product from Toolmaker and i am very happy i did !! as far as machined parts and other accessories , i stick with SMD and Toolmaker ...

can you change my name from toyonbags to 02Blazer , please! thank you

put a d2700 in there , you should be able to fit it

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thanks , i'll just run it without the fuse , just a Mechman 240 like the one in the build

i also have a blazer and am about to do the big three , i see you didnt fuse the power wire to the alternator , do you think it should be fused ?? i know it's only a 12''-14'' run of wire and to me , putting a fuse between seems not nessasary , is that what you thought ?

can you give me a link to what kind of tubing you used for the rear glass please 1

amazing deal !!! will be ordering one on friday , going in a 2002 s10 blazer , going to be powering 2 orion amps ( 1500.1DZ & 500.4 ) the sale is perfect timing .cant wait ...

good luck then , hope it turns out the way you want it , just keep in mind what i said

i mentioned the Cando arms cause i feel anyone looking into using Air Ride Tech. stuff is not trying to have to much fabbed and wants a DIY kinda setup .....

if it was me , i would not use shockwaves for anything , use some 6" bags up front , those shockwaves' cost is ridiculus !!!! if i were you i would call up Cando Specialties and get some control arms from them for 760 bucks and buy some Slam Specialties RE6 bags , done deal here is the link for Cando Specialties , they have parts for nissans - http://www.candospecialties.com/

which ever side the panhard bar is connected to the frame , when the vehicle is raised up , the axle will move the same way . the more lift , the more side to side travel . panhard bars are very popular on hotrods cause they have short ranges of travel . when you are looking at up to 10-15" of travel on most truck air suspensions , the panhard bar is just not a viable option .

for the "roll steer" you are talking about , the triangluted bars or panhard bar takes care of that . the reason for the same size bars ( take a triangulated 4-link for example , the lower bars and the triangulated bars need to be the same length ) is to keep proper the proper pinion angle thru the axis(travel) of the 4-link . as far as the muffler/exhaust , you should have the end of the exhaust (muffler tip) end about a foot before the axle . for the end of the tip , use a turn down (aimed either at the ground or at least away from gas lines , airline and bags or any thing else that will be affected by the heat ) and about the panhard bar , what do you mean by it being "wide" ???

the dogleg length will be determined by your wheel size ..

as far as the length of the 4-link bars , keep them as close to the same length as you can !!!! if you say you have only a 1/4" space between your tire/wheel to your quarter panel , i really don't think you should go with the panhard bar , but that is your choice . if it was me , i would not even consider it .......

i don't know about you but there is nothing better than flyin' down the freeway doing 100 mph dragging , throwing a mean ass shower of sparks

that is not accurate at all !!! you might lose 1 hp , not even noticeable .these compressors have clutches on them so there is no power lost when they are not filling the tank . it takes about 35-55 seconds to fill a 5 gallon tank to about 200-250 psi , that's if it's empty , to refill the tank (when the pressure switch is activated ) it will take half of that . so to say you would lose gas milelage and horsepower is simply not true