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02Blazer

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02Blazer last won the day on February 10 2023

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About 02Blazer

  • Birthday 04/27/1969

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    mini-trucks and bass fishing .....

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  1. Hey man I saw a post you added to a question about the titan 8, HO alternator etc I'm currently running a kicker CXA 1800.1 on stock everything except 0 gauge wire and my 19 Camry is handling it fine no voltage drop period but I want to upgrade from the dual 12 Q-class to the dual 12 solo x setup but I am wondering if I can drop a LTO bank in the place of my battery and be good it's the same thing as the titan 8 and where the titan 8 is 10ah the bank is 40ah which call me stupid but if my math is correct that is the equivalent of 4 titan 8's correct and for the price of half of one titan 8 but the guy at the dealership keeps trying to get me to buy three titan 8 for my car to handle the setup I want any help would be appreciated also the 19 Camry is not compatible with a HO alternator because of the ONBUS/LINBUS electronics build reasoning for going the battery route

  2. that's your opinion of autotech , mines the opposite , their customer service sucks unless you think talking to the receptionist is actually some service . and they are pretty local to me . i wouldn't use one of their alts if you gave it to me , actually wouldn't use one if you paid me ....
  3. what welding cable brand that had silicone in it ??? just for informing others , i don't use welding cable .
  4. why did you need 100 feet of power wire ?? how many runs you doing ? i have 2 runs of positive from battery delete to lithium bank in back and two frame grounds from bank to frame (already had big three) and three positive runs ,three negative runs all 2 feet each . i bought 40 ft. of positive(red) wire &16 ft. of negative wire(black) , what i'm saying is that i hope you're measuring out what you need and buying it rather then just buying it by the spool , might save you some money and then could afford better cable .
  5. make sure you use glue lined heat shrink , welding cable is not tinned . to each is own , i would never buy welding cable because it's not as flexible and also , what i just mentioned , it's not tinned . i have thousands invested in subs , mids , tweeters , amps , head unit , etc.. a shit ton of other accessories like battery terminals , lugs, lithium banks , enclosure etc.. no way i'm gonna try to cheap out and save a few bucks on electrical !! don't take it wrong , use what you like and can afford , i do , but use the right tool for the job . 👍
  6. stick with the Knuconceptz , welding cable is too stiff to work with to me
  7. looked those batteries up and they are in fact solar , rv, lawn mower batteries. they have a built in BMS in them that limit discharge to 100 amps output , that's why you don't see anyone use a BMS in lithium car audio battery builds . my suggestion is to get rid of those batteries and get an actual purpose built lithium bank that can support that amp and other amps you are running . you will need to have a bank (lithium ) to support at least 700 amps for that amp and whatever other amps you are running , i suggest a 96ah Headway bank ..
  8. are those some solar batteries you got in that wood case with the down4sound stickers ???? might not be getting enough current tp that amp if they are solar batteries ...
  9. need a E400.4 ?? got a new in the box one , never used , hit me up , getting rid of it cheap
  10. they look to be the same tinsel material , just one weave was puller tighter then the other , meaning the wider one's weave is looser if you can envision that.
  11. had a similar experience with jims , i ended up buying similar product from Toolmaker and i am very happy i did !! as far as machined parts and other accessories , i stick with SMD and Toolmaker ...
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