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02Blazer
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Posts posted by 02Blazer
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well i don't need the RTV any more , THE FUCKIN ENGINE TOOK A SHIT ON ME !!!!!!! so now im gonna do it the right way and take it to a place where they put in a fresh rebuilt with a 3 year/ 30,000 mile warranty !!!!! so i just wasted close to a grand on that used motor and installation , i guess you live and learn ... so now im back to the drawing board ..........................
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ok so i psoted awhile back to c if a s10 was a good deal but it wasnt and now am lookin at this nissan hardbody heres the link
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/for/876432714.html
again i dont know a thing about air ride at all so is this a good deal or should i just pass on it and its 800
that looks like a major headache !!!! , the front end looks like it's not even there much less been modded with an updated front end . pass this one up .......
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We'll I still have about 300lbs of stuff to get in this car, and I am allmost on bump stops what can I do to lift the car with out spending thousands on baging it...
the car is a 2007 dodge magnum 3.5l v6
see if they (after market spring companies ; eibach, sprint , h&r , etc....) have a stiffer spring that has a higher weight load rating ..........
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are those VIAIR 380's or 480's , or even if they are some other model , for instance , my 2 VIAIR 380's only draw 32 amps . so i think you have some other electrical issues , cause thats not that much of a draw on your battery ( equal to about a 300-500 watt audio amp ) . hope that helped........ btw , do not let your compressors run while the car is off , that can drain your battery some . if you have upgraded your electrical for a system (audio) , im pretty sure your getting a decent battery , right ? ,if you say yes , then that battery should be fine...................
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you would have to be between 5'-5'5'' to fit and be able to drive that truck , im 6' 1'' , and i barely fit with the seat ALL the way back and nothing behind the seat . i couldn't even imagine having the seat up 8'' , i would be hugging the wheel .........................Lol.. well.. I miiight consider selling my two bnib Mach 5 SPL-12s. At the time I bought them, I was either going to do an enclosure like this
or a blow through.
However is it worth it to do a blowthrough for just two 12s? Although, My cousin had a full size GMC Sierra with a blowthrough for 1 10" Kappa.
So heres my "backup" plan, in case I don't do the 12s/blowthrough route.
Box diemensions
W:50in
H:30in
D:8in
3/4 mdf
Diamond Audio D1 12 (x6)
~6.98 cu.ft , leaves about 1.16 cubes per sub... Diamond Audio reccomends 1.2 per sub.
This is meant to go behind the seats in my regular cab Sonoma, and will come up past the window line a few inches.
What you guys think? This route will be cheaper than the SPL-12s... if I could only find some batteries...
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I've been into Mini-trucks since the late 80's...still have my double-diamond w/forward tilt rack that will fit most Mazda beds.
ha ha , haven't seen a z-rack in quite some time !!!!!! back then that was the shit , that was truck dancing , with the heli-copter ( 360 degree rotating bed for all you young bucks !!! ) bed and a diamond ( scissor lift ) lift and a z-rack , hitting corners , front back , side-to-side , damn that seems like just yesterday , damn , im getting old !!!
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yea but you could mod them for a big time air hopper
air hopper
yup , i keep telling everyone that im a die hard minitrucker ...................................... -
Yeaup. Theres some on s10 forum for cheap right now.
When you see some one hopping a s10 you know they went thru probably twice as much work to get that hight.
i seen those , they are for hydraulics ( or were made for a truck that had hydraulics ) they plated the shit outa them !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Your trippin...run outside and play while the adults talk....
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dont buy it
check the date of last post before yours ..............................
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i was gonna do the swap for my 84 s10 blazer , the one guy everyone was telling me to go to wanted like 10-11,000 , fuck that !!!!!
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that's how much it is in cali? fuck..
yes , it's alot more work than most people think . 3500 is actually a good deal , cause as the saying goes ,'' YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR'' . plus the hours put into doing it correctly and not hacking it or cutting corners is ALOT , and time is money !!!!!!!!!!
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A s10 frame in good shape not rusted can handle a v8 no problem. Dont forget a vortech v6 is nothing more than a v8 with 2 cylinders chopped off.
Bagging and doing a v8 swap can be a really easy week end project. If you plan ahead it can be almost plug and play. Ive done one to pass smog and it was simple. Ive done a few v8 swaps that didnt need to be smoged and thats easier when dealing with odb1. 97 s10 Is the worst year to a swap in because you need to run 2 computers. the stock one for the speedometer and all that fun stuff and another to run the engine. Thats the year s10 I currently have
It will get a v8 soon tho. I have a kit from advanced adapters and a computer and wire harness from Current Performance So as soon as I finish some other stuff on the truck a v8 will be in order. This web site should help you out tons http://www.v8s10.org/forum/index.php
I checked into that (v8 swap) and they say there's alot of rules to doing it , you have to put in the same year or newer engine , not like an old hotrod , where you can throw in whatever you want , but here in california , we got strict smog laws and then you have to have it pass an inspection from a referee from the dmv , not just smog ..........
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you know with the 6's , you will require more psi to acheive the same amount of lift of the 7's . that equates to a rougher ride . have you thought about taller cups ?? that way you dont have to compensate by putting higher psi to acheive a certain ride height , the cups will make up for it and you can go with lower psi , equaling a softer ride . i just think you can't get a better ride quallity by going smaller in bag size ......................
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im runnin RE6's up front with 7's out back , i imagine my truck is alot lighter than yours !!! when driving i have 75-90 psi up front , to get full lock is about 110 psi . on the highway i run about 75 psi . out back i run 20-35 psi normally , with 20-25 psi highway . but take into account that i got a little 4 banger and a stock floor bed thats been sectioned a good 7-8''s !!! also , i was thinking about getting a 145-175 pressure switch , but it will only save me about 45 seconds (tank fill time) , so maybe not
but i might want that extra psi for when i put in the parkers (3/4'') .just got to get some $$$ to do it , the fuckin fittings are gonna run about a hundred or so !!!!! I will only use the parker brass PTC's , i love those things , they are solid and heavy duty . so anyhow , all us minitruckers are some broke motherfuckers , so one of these days ....................... oh yeah , if you got the 4.3 in your s10 , i would not go for the RE6's , if your spring pocket is already cut for 7's , use them ( the 7's ) . the 6's have 10'' of lift , the 7's have 11'' , you know that extra inch seems like a lot when it comes to lift !!! hopefully, one of these days when i get a super lift ( bags on bar ) setup , i might try the RE8's ( 12'' of lift ) but that seems like it might be awhile away ................. -
Yea i forgot lol. I cant help it my bags are like 3 or 4 years old lol the front bags came off another truck to. I might be time to change them out maybe. I found a split in my rear bags.
yup , time to call nick !!!!!!! get them RE7's up front , RE8's out back on them bars ...............................
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A rs 7 in the front will support a v8 no problem
they dont make RS bags anymore ( excuse BIG P , he's riding on some OLD ass bags , j/k bro
) they are either RE ( single port , 200 psi ) HE ( dual port , 400 psi ) or XS ( dual port , 600 psi ) definitely go with the Slam Specialties bags , they are THE best you can get ( no, the dominators are not better ; less lift and not as good of ride ) don't worry about them holding up the weight of your engine , they use these bags all the time on crew cab duallies with heavy ass 454 big blocks !!!!!!..................... -
L7 jl sucks lol
x2 !!!!!!
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Bag the back first, if you bag the front first you will have to go back to REDO the front went you do the back. and thats more money out your pocket, I suggest Slams 2500 in the back first, then move to the front Slam 2600s, 3/8 everything
like i said in the other thread , you need to not post things that you obviously do not much know about ............. btw , slam specialties does not have a 2500 or a 2600 , you are a little confused ................
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Depends on what you want..
2400-5000 is your range.
2000 basic bodydrop.
2400-3200 bag job.
$2000 is CHEAP for a body drop , even a traditional bodydrop starts at around $3500.oo , a stock floor bodydrop starts at around 5k ... but the thread starter has a uni-bodied CAR , with mcpherson struts , so installation is a helluva ot cheaper , but the parts are gonna be more expensive than say a minitruck , cause of the strut bag assemblies costing way more than bags and cups !!!!!
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I think it was A.I.M then, yeah.. because I remember alot of there products were fualty and fucked up alot!
they sell alot of shit !!!!! and then try to rip you off if you try to return it cause they charge you a 35% restocking fee !!!! straight bullshit , NO BODY SHOULD EVEN THINK OF BUYING ANYTHING FROM THEM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Wasnt it Air Ride who had the big hissy fit with horrible products?
i think your talkin about A.I.M or JUSTBAGIT.COM , cause those companies ( actually the same just different names) ARE A FUCKIN DISGRACE !!!!!!!!
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i am thinking about baging the front of my truck right now it is lowerd 5/5 but i might lower the rear to 7 and bag the front what you guys think?
to me bagging a truck is ALWAYS a good idea
but if you go to 7'' out back im pretty sure your gonna have to notch it ( unless it already is notched ) i must assume you are gonna eventually bag the rear at a later time . my opinion is that anyone that static drops there truck wishes to or wants to bag it but cant unless its a leased vehicle that they dont plan on owning eventually or they dont have the money, time, or a shop that can do it right the first time and it be road worthy and dependable and SAFE!!!! so , my opinion is bag the front now and when you get more $$$ , do the rear . and dont put in some bolt in notch for the rear axle , cause if you do the front, YOU WILL WANT TO DO THE REAR so do a step notch , i know ,your gonna have to cut into your bed !! so think about it , take all things into consideration , and GO FOR IT -
havent had anything metered yet, only in for about two weeks, still trying to break the subs in. there still really tite
on their website it says their spl sub versions are 1200 rms , not 20,000 . is that for custom made ones ??? but damn , 71.33 mm x-max , thats a stout ass number for a 1200 rms woofer .......
yup , i keep telling everyone that im a die hard minitrucker ......................................
but i might want that extra psi for when i put in the parkers (3/4'') .just got to get some $$$ to do it , the fuckin fittings are gonna run about a hundred or so !!!!! I will only use the parker brass PTC's , i love those things , they are solid and heavy duty . so anyhow , all us minitruckers are some broke motherfuckers , so one of these days ....................... oh yeah , if you got the 4.3 in your s10 , i would not go for the RE6's , if your spring pocket is already cut for 7's , use them ( the 7's ) . the 6's have 10'' of lift , the 7's have 11'' , you know that extra inch seems like a lot when it comes to lift !!! hopefully, one of these days when i get a super lift ( bags on bar ) setup , i might try the RE8's ( 12'' of lift ) but that seems like it might be awhile away 
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so think about it , take all things into consideration , and GO FOR IT
The Toys Engine (new One) Is Dead ........
in Air Ride / Hydraulics - Got Switches? Want Switches? Post here!
Posted
yup , i recently put a used engine i bought of craigs list and had it installed in the toy ( in my sig ) , well it had a significant oil leak and some other undisclosed problems that i later found out the hard way , it lasted for about a month and a half (maybe less) and was runnin good , was draggin the shit out of it , thought you guys knew !!!! , went fishing all day and when i went to leave it was making ALOT of engine noise , kinda like my last engine before
so bottom line is im gonna do it right this time and get a rebuilt engine and have them install it , YES , with a mother fu-kin warranty ..... hopefully within the next month or sooner , btw , before the engine blew i was getting ready to make some draggin video clips , as soon as i get the new engine in , i'll make some ............. :