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02Blazer
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Posts posted by 02Blazer
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HOW MUCH WILL AIR BAGS COST? IM JUST LOOKING FOR UP AND DOWN?
the air bags/air struts or full air suspension for your car ????? if your talking about an air suspension system , for parts your looking at around 2200-3000 for a good kit including air struts and everything else . installation should run you around 1000-1750 . the parts are more cause of the strut bag assembly , but installation is less than for a minitruck , cause it's pretty much all bolt on (the struts just bolt in , that is if you get the specific model strutbag assembly for your year and model) so there is less install time and it's a hell of alot easier when you don't have to fabricate shit ......
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yeah, I know, either way, I dont see why it would stick, Ive done that exact same thing on a valve cover once, just a valve cover, no pressure, and it still leaked
yeah , if it doesn't work on the second go around , fuck it , ill just throw a couple of quarts of oil behind the seat for when it gets low
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worse case scenario- warped head
I had the same issue with my step daughters inline 200 on her mustang, finally just lost compression in the rear 2 cylinders, and a second head gasket later- gave up on it, and didn't want to pay to have the head machined, so got a 289 instead
RTV is a bad use for head gaskets
i wasnt using it as a gasket , just trying to patch up a oil leak around the head ......
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Yes. I don't have a import catalog to get you the part number. (Sorry man) Good luck on your fix.
Shannon
thanks , i think i might just take BIG P's advice and just leave it to my mechanic , i dont want to fuck it up .........
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you have the easyst truck to do head work. but sins its used i wouldnt dick with it there could be hilicoils or something crazy you never know. Just keep adding oil untill your budy has time to fix it.
im gonna try the RTV sealant one more time then wait for my mechanic fix it , i would probably fuck it up then i would be back to no truck cause i don't have more cash for another engine !!! i gots to use this truck to get some work going ..........
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Did the RTV work? If you do change the head gasket be sure to put a MLS (Multi Layer Steel) gasket back on it. Then you will never have to worry about it ever again. We use MSL on out 17deg Small block Chevy in our drag radial car (Street car) and we shoot Three kits to it, 300hp on the 1st,250 on the 2nd and another 150hp on the 3rd. Even with all that we have never blown one. So for your truck I would say the MLS would out last the vehicle.
Shannon
do they make one for a 22re motor ????
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Hey man I was talking to a buddy of mine he has a few yotas and I asked him if its hard to do the head gasket on he said its pretty easy he isnt the brighest kid either so im guessing if he can do it you can do it also
im still debating it ..............
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I wish I was closer. I would be over there in a New York minute to help you yank t head off and get it fixed the right way. Its times like these when you find out who your real friends are because they are the ones willing to help a brother out in his time of need.
Shannon
thanks for the offer !!!! i think im gonna try the rtv one more time than if it does not work , i will have my mechanic show me how to pull the heads off and do it ''the right way'' ..... but again thanks for your offer , really nice to hear
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i waited 24 hoursDid you let the rtv cure before you reassembled it? i searched on the internet about RTV sealant and people said anywhere from 20 minutes - 24 hours , so i opted to wait 24 hours . i think ill try it again . ill post back if it works or not.............
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RTV will not seal a head gasket leak. Bars only stops water leak. The problem is the oil pressure will be high enough to push the RTV every time. You could try urethane but I doubt that will work also. But you could try that. But you will have to clean the shit out of it and then let it cure for a day or two before you start it. What I would do is just bite the bullet and yank the head or pull the motor and send it back due to it not being sound.
I hate to be the bare of bad news but please trust me on this. I have been into racing and this kinda stuff of a long time and thats the way it goes.
Sorry! If you do pull the head, clean the block and take a flat file and lightly file the head then install a MLS head gasket (from Felpro or Cometic) and that should fix the problem. Plus all you would be out would be the head gasket and intake gasket.
Shannon
i have never done nothing like that ( mechanisal wise ) i think i would fuck it up !!!! i just hate trying to remember where everything goes as far as hoses and plugs and stuff like that . even if i was to label them and take pictures , maybe , just maybe ...... i was hoping for a different kind of sealant or something ......
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when i finally get the system back in i have 2 xtant 1001x and a matching xtant 4 channel going in. The bags are cracked but the out side is just a cover for the metal bands. I talked to Nick and he said as long as theres no metal showing im fine. Yes theres a huge difference between the way Nitrogen stores energy vs the way oxygen stores energy. It makes for a much smoother ride and stable ride. You probably wont notice the deference if you have your bags over the axles theres nothing smooth and stable about that lol
actually it rides very nice for the setup i have . my truck used to be on firestones and i ran nitrogen for about 3-4 months , when i re-did my system , i put in the slams and the viair 380's and it rides so much better . then again the differance is probably between the firestones and the slam specialties !!!!! nick works at slam specialties ??? they wont replace them ???
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just got a used motor (22re) put in my toyota , the engine has a pretty good oil leak between the cylinder head and the block , my mechanic did it as a side job and couldn't fix the leak (didn't have time) and i didn't have the extra money to pay him to do it . he gave me some Mopar rtv sealant (black) and some brake cleaner , said to clean it real good and apply 2-3 thick layers of the rtv to the spot where its leaking , well i did this all last night , fired up the truck tonite and the oil is still leaking
anybody know a fix for it besides pulling the cylinder head and re gasketing it ????? -
itIve got a daily driver and im lazy. i dont want to change oil or deal with any of that crap. I dont want to fab up mounts around my dual alternators. My motors getting old and i dont want any extra strain on it. I dont want to run another air line from the front of the truck to the back. It just sounds like one big head ache. I love nitrogen. the truck rides so much better on it. I like clowning the local low riders on cruise nights to lolAs far as bags im running RS 7s on all 4 corners. I ride at 65 psi on all 4 corners.
what's with the dual alternators ? you got a high watt system ?? anyhow , one day soon ill get a sanden , i can sacrifice some time on maintaining it ( oiling it , dumping the water trap ) i think the fill times are crazy fast and worth it . do you really think there is a differance between nitrogen and 12v compressor air ??? how are those old RS bags holding up ? the out side aint cracking on the bag is it , if it is , im pretty sure you can send them to slam specialties and they will give you free RE bags . dont ya just love slam specialties bags !!
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if that sub has the 4'' voice coil then its rated at 1000 rms , 2000 peak . the hx2 was 500 rms , 1000 rms . so if yours is the power hx2 , you gots a beast there .
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I only have Airline for my horns. But I used some Copper line around my engine compartment, it also runs close to the exhaust (Found that out the hard way). Stuff gets expensive though.
i have to route my lines around too much stuff , thats why i don't want to ''hard line '' my air lines . plus my fittings for my rear bags ( bags over the axle ) are mounted on the bottom instead of the top ( bag port is facing down instead of on top ) cause i got a stock floor bed and i load stuff in the bed ( im a tlie setter ), heavy stuff , so i dont want to risk damaging the port fitting if some thing were to dent the bed and cause it to damage the fitting . also i can access the fitting with out having to take off the bed to get at it .... wow , i be triple posting
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BIG P's quote - Im running the old FBI 6 or 7 gallon tank. At 140 psi i cant even lock it out. I am running one big red compressor from fbi it takes a few minutes to fill i never timed it..............................................................................
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i thought the '' big unit '' is rated at 200 psi ???? whats up with the 140 psi ??? what kinda bags are you running ???? my slam specialties ( re6's up front , re7's out back ) in the front lock up at 120 psi , the back locks up at 45-50 psi . i drive at 75-90 psi up front , 15-35 psi out back ...
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Im running the old FBI 6 or 7 gallon tank. At 140 psi i cant even lock it out. I am running one big red compressor from fbi it takes a few minutes to fill i never timed it. But yea I air up all 4 bags from the ground to just above ride hight and it kicks on. I use it as expansion tank for my nitrogen to tho. I blew my old viair and my buddie let me run his 480 dual pack the shit was sick. At 200 psi You get lots more play time with the switches and it doesnt take long at all to fill the tank. some day when im rockafeller im gonna run 4 480s and ditch the nitrogen tank. I watched a guy with the same set up hit switches while the comps were running they pumped so fast he could play with them on. He had 4 or 6 i cant rember but it was sick. Loud as fuck to.
why get (4) 480's when you can get a sanden !!!! you'll be able to fill a 7 gallon tank with a 165-200 psi pressure switch, IN 49 SECONDS !!!!!!!! you see why i want to get a sanden , ill be able to fill my 8 gallon tank in 55 SECONDS !!!!!!!!!! fuck the nitrogen , i used to spend $25-$50 every WEEK , i aint rich !! far from it !! so think twice before you buy mutiple 480's .
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BIG P , your running a 5 gallon tank right ?? , does your compressor(s) turn on all the time when u hit switches ??? im thinking of going to a 5 gallon tank , right now im running a 8 gallon , the fucking thing is totally visible in the back of my truck since i got a stock floor bed ( its only 8.5''-9'' deep ) cause the 8 gallon is 11.5'' in height , if my compressors are gonna be on all the time ill just get 2 of the 5 gallon tanks . the aluminum 5 gallon tanks from F.B.I look nice all polished up , plus they are only like 8.5'' in height and they have 1/2'' ports on the face , the slim and skinny 5 gallon tanks ( firestone ) have 3/8'' ports . no likey !!!
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the burst rate of air line goes out the door with the least bit heat. The line gets hot and the high air pressure forces it way out. adding heater hose does nothing but insulates it like putting a parka on a fat man in the summer. if you cant move your air line ether run some brass or have some steel braided hidrolic hose made up. heat and air line are a scary mix. You might be cool for years then you goto a show and cruise with your body dropped truck on the ground trapping all that heat in then boom blown air line.
the headder heat wrap tape is rated at 2000 degrees !!! when i get around to putting those parker 3/4'' valves and line on , im definatly gonna get some hoses made up !!! paker says they can make me up some with a high heat rating , damn , i love that store !!!!
anyhow , i think the fix i put on it will work , i drove the truck for about a year with no problems till now ( knock on wood ! ) im just glad it was when i was pulling into my garage and not on the streets ............ -
just got the new ( used ) engine in my toyota yesterday . drove back from my mechanics shop , when pulling into my garage , the rearend started to air down , thought it was me leaning on a switch , but i wasn't . flicked the switch to air it up and it started to drop again .. so today i jacked it up ( no fun when your truck is body dropped , gots to jack it up a little then put the jackstands under the frame then go to the other side ,do the same , go back to the other side and jack it up again so i can make the jack stands higher , the n repeat it over again !!! ) got a bottle of soapy water and sprayed it over the rear air lines after i quickly put someair in the rear bags , heard a loud leak but couldn't find it till i repeated this twice . slid my heater hose ( running it over the line that is close to the muffler ) up the line and sprayed it down after i aired it up again , found a blistered hole where the heater hose was encasing it , WTF !!! the heater hose was not melted at all , but the line had deffinetly been melted . so my solution to this is - i cleaned off the hose with soap and water , dried it , then wrapped it in some extra headder heat wrap tape i had from last year when i had my 01' s10 blazer, installed some new line , ziptied it up , and im 100% sure it wont happen again . so what im saying is that heater hose is only rated at 250 degrees ! your muffler can exceed 700 degrees !!! so if you are running your air line close to your exhaust ( muffler , exhaust pipe , catlylic converter ) take an extra saftey precaution and wrap the heater hose with heat reflective tape ,the kind used on headers . im lucky i wasn't hauling ass on the freeway or in the middle of a turn and started to drag , most all of you know that dragging and high speed turns don't mix AT ALL .....
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he's running 32 8"s in a ported clamshell.
thats alot of cone area !!!! i hope he can tell me what JUST 4 would sound like !!!
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i run a few 8's and yes...they sound like any other size woofer. you cant tell the difference. matter of fact...i think ima run 8's for a long while. cone area + wow factor = good
same question to you , 4 sealed or 2 ported , how were you running yours ??
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i got 2 mtx 6000 8's dual 4ohm in my truck for midbass but they hit lows like nothin ive seen befor for an 8 but it takes a big box to do so tho lol, 8's in the right box sound better than a 12 in my opinion just dont over power em, and if there goin in ur truck ied atleast devide each sub to is own chamber, i made a box for mine just for fun and they sounded ok but like shit ina non devided box, ied do atleast 1cf for each sub tho sealed, ied do a downfire box or make somethin custom with teh cubby holes and put an enclosure down in it and put amps on front and maby port out the top or so, but theres this also, lets say u got 4 8's with 200rms goin to each thats 800watts for those and they pritty loud with that but then u have this were u can have 2 12's with 500-800rms goin to each and get prolly twice as loud but dont quote me on that, theres always a varable in car audio tho, but ied get wL<3bass's 8's he has, cause pete from ttb had 2 rlp 8's in a ported box and it burped a 149 in one of his vids befor they welded so i asume on music they would wang, so 8's are efficent on diff notes they play midbass as well as low bass also so they will help ur mid n high's than take away from em, and plus those sundown 8's look sick to, and a brotha need to keep from walkin everywere sence this gas is so damn expencive, hope this helps ur question man and good luck with ur truck
I WOULD LOVE TO BUY THOSE SUNDOWNS , but unfortunatly i aint got no $$$
so 8's sound good ?? then when i get some $ , i will get some . i just dropped all the cash i had into putting a used engine into my toyota mini-truck . it really sucks being broke !!!! anyhow , should i try to run 4 sealed or 2 ported ??? thanks for all the input !!!! -
that van is VERY badass !!!!!!
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i searched on the internet about RTV sealant and people said anywhere from 20 minutes - 24 hours , so i opted to wait 24 hours . i think ill try it again . ill post back if it works or not.............
anyhow , i think the fix i put on it will work , i drove the truck for about a year with no problems till now ( knock on wood ! ) im just glad it was when i was pulling into my garage and not on the streets ............
anyhow , should i try to run 4 sealed or 2 ported ??? thanks for all the input !!!!
Can You Switch 97 S10 Interior With 01 Interior?
in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!
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put in a grand-am dash , you know what im talkin about , they look sick as hell plus your gonna have to switch out all the gauges and shit anyway . then glass the grand-am dash and it will look badass .........