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02Blazer

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Posts posted by 02Blazer

  1. thats exactly what im doing.

    Have you measured your lift?

    i get hardly any , i told you i got a 50/50 4 link !!!! im gonna get some BLF flate plate upper control arms cause my stock ones hit the bag plate, thus limiting lift. i get enough in the front to turn all the way, but cause of the 50/50 , i can hardly get my rear wheels off :aggressive: any how , ill solve that with a super lift 4link.......

  2. idk the lift i get puts te bed way past stock hight. to me all that lift is useless. unless i need to crawl underneath it then my fat ass is thankfull for all the lift lol.

    my bags are just in front of bar center on the cab side. if you run the bags in the middle of the bars you will get a titter totter effect

    0824061623.jpg

    you know ever since seeing the video of daddy's customs blue s10 busting that 3-wheel in the parking lot , i want that much lift on my toyota !!!

  3. My bars are like that. Excuse the mess it was during the build phase

    100_1716copy.jpg

    DSCF0210.jpg

    I have 12 inches of lift and a watts link wont afect any of that.

    Na its all in the bushings. I posted on another forum and Bio Max responded saying to simply replace the ends before installing a watts link.

    in that video they're only getting about 10'' of lift max ( the one on hydraulics ) . some people say they're good , hotroders that use them alot tell me they're good for limited travel. if your gonna use one , i hope it works out for ya. when i get a bags on bar setup, im hoping to get like 20+ '' of lift ( ill get a telescoping driveshaft ) i want that ass end up high in the air , like im gonna f-ck it :lol: did you put your bags in the middle of the bar, is that why you dont get that much lift ??

  4. I havnt seen to many s10s with parallel 4 links cuss theres to much stuff in the way. I just assumed he couldn't get the 4 link triangulated correctly because of the cast iron pumpkin. Im haveing kind of the same issue I have to much flex in my bushings causing the rear end to flex side to side. Im going to add some jonny joints if that doesnt work im adding a watts link.

    johnny joints are super pivot joints ( suicide doors ) mega-flex joints (fbi ) , you really think those joints are gonna stop the flex ? you must have ALOT of play between your bushing ends and your tabs . are your trianglated bars at enough of an angle to cease all side-to-side movement. ( at least 30 degrees ) it just sounds to me like there is more factors than your bushings to be making your axle move side-to-side , unless you are talkin 1'' or less.. correct me if im wrong P.

  5. I havnt seen to many s10s with parallel 4 links cuss theres to much stuff in the way. I just assumed he couldn't get the 4 link triangulated correctly because of the cast iron pumpkin. Im haveing kind of the same issue I have to much flex in my bushings causing the rear end to flex side to side. Im going to add some jonny joints if that doesnt work im adding a watts link.

    instead of going out from the pumpkin with your upper bars , put the tabs closer to the wheels and go in to a crossmember ( |/\| ), i know you like that key board sketch !!!! , what im saying is triangle them in , like suicide doors wishbone 4link kit , that way you dont have to f-ck with the pumpkin. i hear you cant get much lift with a watts link , i was thinking of that but im pretty sure if your doing bags on bar setups , your lift is limited, the watts link works best for bags on axle setups. all the ones i see dont seem like they get more than 8-10'' of lift before the bars are pulling on each other, kind of the same princable as a 50/50 setup, yeah , i know , i got one on the toy... :sorry: tell me what you guys think of the watts link..........

  6. well i have decided against this truck from what all of u say its basicly worth less so im looking at a 88 tomarrow and if all goes as planed ill have a project s10 oh and i copy and pasted that then got his email and sent it to him and he said whats with all the Qs??? so he is defenitly hiding somethin

    you know damn well you would of been stupid to buy that wreck , i hope you find something alot better for around the same price , just be patient .....

  7. I just read the thread for the first time hehe. Im glad you guys like my truck it really means a lot considering the history of the truck and how far its come. Back on subject.

    The good

    Its an 84

    bagged

    body dropped

    shaved

    B&M shifter

    the bad

    no rims

    Its an 84

    bagged

    body dropped

    shaved

    B&M shifter

    Ricer steering wheel

    Pan Hard bar

    Ok i really would hesitate on this one. Whys he selling it? Is he selling it cuss he got in over his head? What kind of craftsmanship went into the build. He states theres a pan hard bar so theres probably a cast iron stock rear end. Thats not going to work for a v8 so your gonna have to put a new rear end in it and ditch the panhard bar. how much bondo is in the shave job? theres no interior. Is that because its a traditional body drop so now you have to fab up the interior. If so how much did he cut into the floor. Did he cut to much and now big people wont fit in it with out hitting there heads. If its stock floor did he use the proper steel to reinforce the frame. the bag jobs only 25% done. Are all the parts there to finish it? it says its ready for a v8. does it come with v8 motor mounts. what size is the radiator. Is the radiator for a 2 liter inline 4 if so you need a new one. did they cut the floor and make room for a 700 r4. Is the shifter for a 700 r4? did they cut the bed? has it been wrecked is it a salvage title. weres the gas tank. has the gas tank been moved. if so was it done right. is all the glass there. did they weld on and grind on the truck pitting the shit out of the glass? what size are the 4 link bars. were and how was the bags mounted what brand and size bags did they use. Whats with the ricer steering wheel?

    that should get you started :) just copy and paist that in a email and see what the guy says.

    you missed the part about it has a 4link AND a panhard bar, haa haa ha !!! now is it a ''4 '' link, cause even a parralell ''4link '' is a actual 2 link , so you never know what some one has done to their shit ............... :unknw:

  8. you have to use strut bags , your car is front wheel drive , correct ?? so you have mcpherson struts . so you are limited to just that . you see you dont have coil pockets in your lower control arms , you have the axles ( cv joint ) running between the lower and upper control arms . there would be no room for ''regular '' bags ( slam specialties , conti-tech , firestone , or air lift . you shouldn't have problems with them if they are installed correctly . DAVID should be looking at this sooner or later, he is the '' strut bag guru '' ( you like that david , :rolleyes: ) he can answer alot of your questions if you have more about strut bag applications , hope this helped some..... B)

    i was just looking at a place that sells strutbag kits ( altered altitude customs ) and the kits they sell for your car have strut bags front and rear, so for sure you have to use strut bags.......... hit up F.B.I ( fender bender international ) they have kits for your car pretty cheap................ :good:

  9. i have a 02 impala and i keep getting told to do strut bags all the way around 4 " drop and i have 22"inchers so i think that would be fine but then other people tell me that they have bad problems with the strut bags and that i should put straight bags on it but it will be more $$$ any suggestions

    you have to use strut bags , your car is front wheel drive , correct ?? so you have mcpherson struts . so you are limited to just that . you see you dont have coil pockets in your lower control arms , you have the axles ( cv joint ) running between the lower and upper control arms . there would be no room for ''regular '' bags ( slam specialties , conti-tech , firestone , or air lift . you shouldn't have problems with them if they are installed correctly . DAVID should be looking at this sooner or later, he is the '' strut bag guru '' ( you like that david , :rolleyes: ) he can answer alot of your questions if you have more about strut bag applications , hope this helped some..... B)

  10. ok thanks thats why i asked ill just let this on slip on by then and wait for a better deal to come along see i would have never know about the panhard bar so thanks didnt want to make a bad choice on a truck and obviously it would have been lol thanks again

    oh and i dont have 5k to spend on a truck lol

    no problem, you should check your local classifieds , those first generation s10's are really cheap , i bet you you can find one for a grand or so . keep looking and find one thats runs good but the body aint so hot, that way you can talk them down in price , since you can do the body work yourself..........

  11. it this s10 a good or bad deal>? i can do body work but know nothing about bags??

    http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/cto/793662749.html

    i myself personally WOULD NOT !! , there aint much left of that truck , he says its has a 4link AND a panhard bar , you use a panhard bar for a 2link, so it sounds like he doesn't know what he is talkin about on his own truck !!! you would have to put a pretty good amount of money to get it driveable, so my suggestion is to buy a complete truck and bodydrop it yourself and get new air suspension parts , 7 out of 10 times with a truck in that shape ,your buying someone elses nightmare, thats why they didn't finish it . you never know but if you price it all out , the difference between that one and one you can pick up for real cheap but running and functional, i am pretty sure you will see it would better to let that one go and get something like i mentioned !!! think long about it before you fork your cash over............. good luck

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