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02Blazer

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Posts posted by 02Blazer

  1. festering pile of poo poo. Definitely a love affair.

    l_9883878a4335515d700e9bf3760f1864.jpg

    cool , i'll try and put up a photo of my toyota, it's not running right now so it will be a pic of it in the garage, my battery is pretty low so ill take my 4runner battery out and let it air up my tank , i hate to run my 380's of of a battery but f_ck it !!! it actually runs , but my cylinder head is f_cked up and makes a sound like there is a wrench tumbling around inside. so, ill pull it out and wash the dust off and snap a couple of pics of it , probably around noon tomorrow and ill post them later that night............. :spiteful:

  2. I have a opportunity to get a 4 door dually. Im thinking it over. Gas prices are really making me think. I think I would do it if theres a good motor swap I can do to make it get resonble millage and be able to tow. Its gonna have to tow 3 mini trucks from cali to Oklahoma and back as well as drive all over Cali Az. Or. and Wa. So whats out there for this thing. I already had a tow pig with nice 454 im not doing that again with these gas prices. So what kind of motor swaps are out there? What kind of mileage and towabilty would the truck get?

    put a chevy 305 in it with a gear change.. you cant really go smaller than that, you will definetley get better gas mileage than a 454, that's for sure... and get a good transmission cooler on it if your gonna use it just for towing...where do you live ???

  3. Nope thats a aim kit stay far far away!

    try this all the parts used have been made and used on air ride systems on busses and motor homes So its very dependable.

    http://www.ridetech.com/catalog/Control_Co...stems-32-1.html

    Ive never seen the avs one but I use a ton of avs stuff on my truck and know or at least have met every one that works there and I would trust there product.

    the one from AVS is only $250, they are said to be VERY GOOD !!! :good:

  4. I am looking to buy the touchscreen what will control your air ride. Does anybody know if they are good or worth the money, I think is a computer also . any help will be appericated

    AVS just came out with one , i hear they are very good.. if you were looking at the one from A.I.M (airbagit ) DON'T BUY THAT CRAP !! aim sells shitty stuff that ain't worth shit, ask around, others will tell you !!!!!, anyhow, in MY opinion, i don't and will never use one ( digital air ride sensor ) the only time u would need one is to level your ride , most of the time when ur hitting individual corners ( wheel ) ur stopped and showing off , then u would drop both corners down ( front or back or sides ) then hit front or back or side up, after you are used to bags u get a feeling for them. i go by my gauges, i got front and back, that's it, that's all i need, so i know i want the front at 80-95 psi and the back at 20-30 psi, thats the perfect height for driving , so you see you will figure it out with out digital gauges, but if you want them, get the system from AVS or like BIG P said , from air ride technologies....... :good:

  5. I know a few people that have tried to use the stock Harris compressor as an EDC and all I can tell you is that it will work...but not for long. It probably has a York or a Sanden on it.

    My Sanden 709 does pretty fine by me. I have ran it at 200 PSI daily for the last year without a single problem. I have even had it at 250+ PSI quite a few times....Hell, If I am not mistaken Kris Dye used to run his at 300 PSI daily on his old white S-10. There is a lot more maintenance involved with running an EDC over an electric and there is a hell of a lot more involved in the installation of one. I personally would have an electric as a back up if you do plan on running one.

    yeah, i stand corrected, the YORK goes to 200-220 psi tops , it's the SANDEN that gets HIGH psi. it must have been a sanden on that truck, they look just like the stock gm a/c compressor to some one who didn't know the difference. my toyota has one on it but it is not working, the previous owner ran it without a pressure switch to see how high it could go ( psi ) and fried it , so one of these days im gonna get a new one and see how it does, especially since my friend just gave me some 5/8'' and 3/4'' parker valves :good: so a lil' extra psi will come in handy !!!!! ( right now im using my two VIAIR 380's at 200 psi ) ........

  6. My step daughters bf came over with his new 1994 s10 he bought for like $1k its bagged all around, but missing the compressor and to me looked like it was missing the air tank too, but it was dark...

    He was telling me how the guy was running his air bags off of the original A/C compressor... I was lost, I never heard that before, but it looks like it was hooked up all lines run to the original a/c compressor location

    is there a trick to buying a A/C compressor and hooking up the air tank to it? what kind of PSI is comming from that? it cant be much....

    Anyways, just trying to help a kid out

    you have to use either a YORK or a SANDEN. there is NO WAY you can use a stock a/c compressor off a s10. so he must have had one of those in there. engine driven compressors have their pro's and cons , you have to constantly fill them with oil, or they will burn up, they will go to about 220-240 psi on the big york, if you ever seen an Oaisis compressor , that is the heart of it , with an Oasis you dont have to have it running off your belt assembly. if i were him, i would get 2 viar 380's or 480's on a 8 gallon tank. that's what im running. you can find a used Sanden edc ( eng. driven comp.) from a junk yard for about 40-50 dollars, but then you got to get a mounting bracket for it. ive seen refurbished ones on ebay for about a hundred bucks ( with out the bracket ) btw sandens only go to about 150 psi. some people love them, some people have no time for them cause they are not is reliable as electric compressors ( viar,air zenith, oasis, etc.. ) so anyhow , my suggestion ( or opinion ) is to get some viars and a tank ... btw, you would still need a airtank if you ran an EDC........... ;)

  7. ;)

    So much i need so little money lol

    But for real i have 0 knowledge of this, what are some good bag brands and air line brands also?

    go with slam specialties , contitech, or airlift's new dominator bags.. firestone and airlifts older series bags are not that good ( not much lift or psi handling as compared to slams or conti's and the dominators ) if you had a first choice , go with slam specialties , very durable and have an excellant ride ( i run mine with no shocks up front ! ) get D.O.T airline from any air suspension supply store AND DONT SKIMP ON YOUR FITTINGS!!!! dont buy a universal fitting kit, buy your fittings specifically for what you need ,get solid brass with the little air line support insert ( cant think of the name for it ) your gonna spend between 80 to 150 dollars for quality fittings , trust me, the extra money is worth it.. hope this info is useful , good luck with your ride.... ;)

  8. I know how to connect up all the valves and lines, what I want to do is connect the front bags to 1 tank than connect the rear bags to the 2nd tank than connect both tanks together and connect 2 compressors so that the air is even in both tanks at all times.

    the air will be even in both tanks , just connect unused ports and configure the line placement how ever u want ( the two front air lines to one tank , the two rear airlines to the other tank ), come on , thats pretty much it . draw a diagram with both tanks and their ports and figure out where you want your lines, compressors, pressure switch, and the line connection between the two tanks. then get the right fittings and connect them. like i said before , both tanks will have equal pressure , if ur that worried , make the connection between the two tanks with 5/8'' line and 1/2'' or 3/8'' fittings ( depending on what size ports u have on your tanks ) some tanks have 1/2'' ports ,some have 3/8'' ports , so what ever ports size u have , go up one size with your air line and u should be good...... good luck, post some pics when you get the system all plumbed.. :D

  9. Does anybody have a diagram on how to connect 2 air tanks together. I want to run 2 compressors. and 8 3/8" valves. the way want to connect it up is have 2 valve at each wheel than run each line directly to the tanks.

    hpoefully you have 1 tank that has at least 7,8, or 9 ports . the ports you dont use ( for airline , pressure switch, compressors. ) connect air line to the other tank, ( the other tank only has to have 4 or so ports ) so if you have 6 out of 8 or 9 ports un used on the first tank , use those 2 extra ports to connect to the 2nd tank......

  10. so he has done them before? did he say what kind of link setup he's gonna put in ?? you should go over that cause then he can incorperate the crossmembers that have to be built for your lower bars already in with the design of the frame ( mounting tabs, mounting tab locations, upper bag bracket locations, upper link bar lenghts need to be measured for the upper linkbar mounting tabs. ) that way u don't have to redo shit or add on , it just makes for less hassles and headaches, know what i mean :rolleyes:

    and if i remember correctly, ur gonna powdercoat the frame right ??? so do the figuring of the 4link and upper bag mounts and all other tabs FIRST !!!! trust me , it's worth it to have everything planned out ahead of time !!! even if you have to bring the explorer down to him first ( you should !! ) ;)

  11. im actually having a dude from an explorer forum that we've been posting on since about 2000 is going to do it. the forum doesnt even exsist anymore, but we still chat on AIM. he lives in Ohio and i live in Florida, hes going to build the entire chassis and bring it to me (im paying gas, etc) and hes gonna help me start the swap

    so he has done them before? did he say what kind of link setup he's gonna put in ?? you should go over that cause then he can incorperate the crossmembers that have to be built for your lower bars already in with the design of the frame ( mounting tabs, mounting tab locations, upper bag bracket locations, upper link bar lenghts need to be measured for the upper linkbar mounting tabs. ) that way u don't have to redo shit or add on , it just makes for less hassles and headaches, know what i mean :rolleyes:

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