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Kyle13130

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About Kyle13130

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    120db

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    Male
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    Michigan

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  1. Yes I've searched around, a lot of threads are very dated. I'm looking for something to put out 4kw-5kw at 1ohm. I've noticed good watt/dollar ratios on a lot of smaller ~2kw amps but nothing as good in the 4kw-5kw range. Some amps that have caught my interest: Wolfram W4500 $630 And not much else, if you know of anything please throw out some names here thanks
  2. So im trying to save as much space as possible, want to be able to see as much as possible out of my rear window. The box that's preferable for me comes out as: 11.8 cubes net, 33hz tuning, 13.5 port area per cube (160 total), 1:4.42 port ratio running on 5kw I see some people say that these subs like big boxes, some say normal, seen someone say they sound good even in small boxes. You can never really know from reading forum post to forum post. Anyone with any knowledge of the sp4s or Fi woofers help would be really appreciated
  3. Making a box for 2 Fi Sp4 18s in a Chevy Trailblazer Should I slot port in the middle of the box or at the bottom? any difference? share the same airspace or independent https://imgur.com/a/o5pVQZ6 6.8" wide port right at 6.5" away from the rear hatch Thank you!
  4. I'm also willing to buy a design and cut sheet if anyone knows someone reputable.
  5. I need some help designing a box or just getting more ideas out there would be great. Meant for loud daily listening. The vehicle is a Chevy trailblazer. Subs up, slot port back. Birch plywood. Biggest I could go would be 46wx27hx27d (leaves 6" from rear gate). I'll have to make something up to test fit and confirm that size will work, might have to play around with sizes a tiny bit afterwards. I have an Audio Legion 2.5k for power with solid electrical (big 3, 1/0 ofc, agm deka intimidator, 150amp stock alt). Will be upgrading to a 240amp or bigger alt next. And maybe onto a 5k in the distant future. Subs are two used Fi Sp4 v2 18s in D1 (.7) format. I emailed Fi and told them my setup (2.5k then a 5k eventually). They recommended at least 13 cubes net with at least 150 square inches and preferably 200 square inches of port area. I want to tune at 33hz but I'd be happy anything between 32hz and 34hz. If anyone could help me with a design or really any constructive input is great. I've built a couple boxes that have both turned out great, but I'm out of my element when it comes to designing a good box. Want to do something nice for this one
  6. Open hatch SUV (Trailblazer/Envoy) subwoofer up, port back. Sub on left side of box, port on right = loudest for passenger? or Sub on right side of box, port on left = loudest for passenger? Simple question just need a simple answer thanks!
  7. Anyone have any problems with the size?
  8. It's a Saab 9-7x which is built on the same platform as a trailblazer (basically a trailblazer). I thought that that was just for slot ports, for aeros I've been told 8-12 and slots 12-16 give or take. Nevermind I see that 84" would equal 3 6" aeros.
  9. I took Andrew McCullough's recommendations for HDC3 & HDC4 box sizes & tunings here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187809-hdc3-hdc4-optimum-enclosure-size/. How do these specs look for an HDC3.118 (copper coil) being run of a FSD Audio FZ2600? 5.20 Cubes net 33.03 Hz tuning freq 9.66 Square inch port area per foot (8" x 18" aero) 18.5H x 36W x 21.5D (1 baffle on top 1 on both front and back). This is for music btw.
  10. It's a 57 pound woofer so it needs as much vertical support as it can get. Any thoughts? I feel like it would just disrupt the airflow too much with the vertical support where it is and I should just keep the horizontal?
  11. http://imgur.com/a/1KDsc 1.5" x 1.5" Thickness MDF Is the bracing blocking the aero port out too much? I was thinking about maybe removing the center vertical bar or the horizontal one, maybe even both.
  12. Would this stuff work well for sealing a plexi or lexan (polycarbonate) window to an enclosure? What about for sealing a polyethylene speaker mount to a door? http://www.amazon.com/Colormetrics-Gray-Putty-Butyl-Single/dp/B00FHH7CG6/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1456224007&sr=1-1&keywords=Colormetrics+Gray+Putty+Tape Thanks
  13. Wow those look pretty nice. I assume I would use a butyl tape to seal it, something like this?
  14. I need some 10 gauge copper lugs for the direct leads on my SoundQubed HDC3. The smallest I can find online are 8 awg copper lugs.. I plan on using a hydraulic crimper so I could probably get away with 8 awg but really would prefer 10 awg. The speaker wire I plan on using is Knukonceptz KL3 10 gauge is this oversized or awg? Does anyone know where I can buy some good 10 awg copper lugs (maybe even 10 awg heat shrink too)? Also is this an acceptable method to wire down to 1-Ohm (see below)? It's my first direct lead sub so I'm used to just wiring it at the push terminals. What kind of bolts should I use? What would give me the best conductivity?
  15. Kyle13130

    fsd 2600.1

    I just bought the same amp for a Soundqubed HDC318. I think you would be fine as long as aren't clipping, you could always tune it so you're only pulling 2k from the amp.
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