Joshdashef

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Alright here is the first online version of the calculator: Hexagonal port screens been chopped for now since it will require some macro/coding that I won't be setting up for now but the actual measurements are there still, interior and exterior. I prefer Excel but you shouldn't need a Microsoft account to open the link or edit the input fields. It will update in real time so if multiple people try to edit it at once you will run into issues so please be patient. Pasting link here and adding to first comment in post ^ Link: https://lcc.click/1mjX81f

That 150a of available charging does mean max amperage you can shove into it. That 25ah is meant for stock alternators that output less, so yes you will need to go a different route with that 350 amp alternator. If you go lithium I'd honestly ditch the AGM and get enough reserve to cover 75% or more of OEM specs. Then you won't have to worry about isolators, or one leeching voltage off one another causing more cycles to occur = less life. I liked JY powers blog on isolators because they were fairly simple with explanation: https://www.jypwr.com/blog/how-to-wire-agm-an

SP4v2+ 15" Dual 1 Ohm DC 2k per coil Box tuned to 31 hz | ~4 net cubic feet | ~5.7 gross Slot port, 14.5 x 4" | 58" squared port area | 34.20 length | WinISD shows ~35/36 m/s rear port velocity Finally getting around to building with this sub after getting a new car... just want thoughts/input on this box design.

I think this will do for the next build

Snowdrifter made a helpful post about this with link to a download for a -7.5 db 40 hz. Close enough

Yeah you got it, set with bluetooth and double check on other sources

Imo spotify is a pain in the ass to add your own files to use on your phone; I've tried, and it seems it is now broken yet again from when I made a post last year about it. The playlist you mention is likely from the Rockford Fosgate 3sixty setup which is completely fine to use. Otherwise I would add the files from https://www.wccaraudio.com/downloads to something like apple music or google music - much easier. The difficulty with using bluetooth is that some head units can actually accommodate higher than the base source level without distorting. For instance my 80 PRS

Disabled auto login under account settings but still had it happen lol. Must be server side

Seems perfectly normal... nothing to see here...

At first I thought it was a glitch or something when it happened a few days ago, but it just repeated itself tonight. I was looking at a post and it showed me signed in as @MrSkippyJ, no clue how or why this was. @SnowDrifter Ever seen/heard of this kind of problem before? Also showed his profile avatar at the place next to where you could comment, but upon refreshing the page I am signed back into my own account...

Junkyard might have a wreck that you can open up and salvage just the connectors with some extra length of wire to solder into where your existing wires are

Bump

While driving yesterday I think I managed to blow the coil in my T2 right door 6.5 woofer. I just had the time to check it this afternoon and did some troubleshooting. 1. Tested wires and connections with a different speaker | everything sounds fine so amp is a-okay 2. Cut and crimped on new connections to make sure that wasn't the issue from corrosion | didn't help 3. Tested the T2 woofer and had a reading bouncing between 1k ohms to 0. Should be 4 ohm. Cone and surround are in good condition, so all I can assume is either the tinsel leads were heated up and

What he said ^ you can under power a sub and it will still play you can over power a sub and it will still play, but overpowering leads to heat so you won’t want to daily a 750 rms sub with 5k, but you could burp it for a competition