Joshdashef

Joe X you are the MVP man. Not one but two suggested box designs

Quick maths

I can attest to the quality of second skin. I've handled both dynamat and the equivalent in second skins and both are great but I personally think SS is easier to apply/mold to various shapes inside a car. (Side note - the SS stuff looks better imo and between that 10% off and the Christmas sale I'm betting is coming up you can do your whole car for a small investment with huge payoff!)

Fi has a 7" driver might work with modification. Imo get a solid component set for your door speakers. Drop the most you can and want on a solid pair. Then put some coax in the rear or some pro speakers. You should have factory tweeters in the far corners of the dash for the component set. I run my Civic with t2 components off a p600x4 active and they sound great. They keep up with my two 12s on a DC 2k and that's without rear speakers at all.

Having two woofers allows for greater thermal limits, so 2 10s would be what I'd go with. Unless you have a plan to get another of one of those 12s later down the road but they are dual 2 so you'd be running at .5 ohms nominal. Just my 2¢ Either way I think you'll enjoy it

I'd say 10 gauge so you can re-use the wire if you upgrade subs/amp. 12 ga if you have no plans to upgrade. If you have to wire down with multiple subs you're gonna want a smaller ga wire like 12 ga - but even then you might need to trim some off to fit two strands in 'er. If you wanna say fuck it put some 8 ga wire and laugh at those who use it for their power runs

I think getting your own foam and cutting to form fit each one and their leads would be the cleanest method but if you just want a place to keep them cut off the top of the box it comes in.

This is the crimper I have used for all of my connections. It is worth the 50 bucks imo https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-Hydraulic-Crimper-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B00ZA2P3XM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1537592228&sr=8-5&keywords=hydraulic+crimper As others said, ring style posts and fuse holders are better suited for under the hood applications, where as set screws might be more convenient for the interior fusing.

Damn really. Is there a better amp combo? 1500 watts is way to little for that sub.

I'd rather not stress my electrical by wiring low then. Since this is my daily I don't intend on adding another alternator beyond a single one. Perhaps upgrading to a higher amp alternator sure but a second one probably not. Thanks for the input guys. Gonna go for the dual 2 ohm / wire to 1 ohm and see what voltage I get. I'm thinking the limitless will keep me stable for cruising and small demo runs.

Hey guys I've been seeing a lot of posts where people are suggesting wiring lower than 1 ohm due to the rise in impedance from the nominal load to playing load as the sub begins to move. Should I get a dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohm fi team 15, wiring to 0.5 and 1 ohm respectively, if I was using a Wolfram 4500.1? Also electrical would be mechman 240 alt / d5100R / D3400 / limitless lithium 45 ah / 0 gauge wiring - two runs. Are there trade offs to wiring lower than 1 ohm ? Like shorter amp life ? Less efficiency ? Etc ?

Your head unit either outputs to your RCAs in the form of a "low output" aka non-amplified signal // or outputs at a speaker level output through its internal amplifier in the form of "high output" aka amplified signal. Your head unit has three RCA outputs from what I have read, they are; Front / Rear / Sub For your case, a 4 channel amp, you should follow what other said above. Run your Front RCAs into your 4 channel amps channel 1 and 2, then run your Sub RCAs into channel 3 and 4 (bridging them to run your sub) and finally running your rear speakers through factory wires going to the stock locations, allowing the head units built in amplifier to handle them with a high output signal. If you need help bridging there probably are tons of articles on the web / or some on here already.

I respect SMD products and "related vendors" that usually cost more than budget companies because they perform excellent, but again come with a cost higher than a lot of others. I also respect budget company builds the same because not every bass head is made of money. My method of thinking is save up for the best you can get, and make it work for your situation. Try some optimism sometime?

More click bait worthy titles? idk, posting to appropriate sections / adding tags can all help but end of the day some stuff trumps others in terms of replies.

I second using a solid company for your electrical. Don't buy expensive amps just to match it with lack luster electrical components. My current setup uses a DC 2k amp with a rockford 4 channel and mechman 240 Alternator and I have no problems with my electrical. Normal volume never goes below 14, if I am jamming out it never dips below 13.8/13.7. Rests at 14.2/14.3 - Honda's electric load detector (ELD). If you plan on going beyond 2k then I suggest investing in lithium rather than AGMs for your rear reserves. It is a bigger initial investment but the payoff is superb. My next build is using a wolfram 4500.1 / Limitless Lithium 45 ah / Fi team 15. Sadly I gave up all of my trunk space to fit everything... so if you want space but still decent sound go either 2 12s ported (that only need about a cube net volume per sub) or a single 15 ported. Also if you 86 your spare tire you can fit your spare batteries there and maybe even your amp if you use some fans to keep 'er cool, giving you even more room in your trunk - but better have an air compressor or fix a flat * Sealed boxes offer a wide range of playable frequencies with a smooth response curve Ported offers a smaller range of playable frequencies with a peak close to the ports tuning. There are some other types of ported enclosures ie. 4th/6th orders but I don't see the point unless your doing a blow thru for a truck.