Joshdashef

I don't know about you guys, but when I buy a device I like seeing how it ticks. This is especially satisfying when it comes to amplifiers so why not look inside our tools? Here is the guts to my APM-2 SPL meter by SSA. I believe they have a new version of this called the APM-X with some upgrades to it. Feel free to post your gut shots of amps, tools, etc.

Looks good to me just fuse the wires coming out of the alternator as well as right before the lithium battery and your set. They make fused distribution blocks if you want a cleaner look but they can get expensive. Treat the distribution block as a battery so connect factory harnesses or anything to their respective ones just like you would a battery terminal

I like it man. The stain looks really good in contrast to that silver on the DC amp

I highly recommend taking your time to understand how to wire these in your car safely. These are not a toy, but a tool, use your brain and stay safe - electricity can hurt you. You can think of super caps as a wide pipe with water in it, while AGMs are a barrel with a hole in it. If a lithium battery, since you said you are running a limitless lithium 45ah, were to not be able to crank your car over you have more problems than a jump start could fix. You need to remove the lithium battery and charge with a lithium compatible charger. These lithium cells will swell up if they see too much charging current at one time, this is why the different ah levels of limitless lithium have that little disclaimer saying 300a of available charging on the 45ah and 100a on the 15 ah To charge super caps you need a resister to impede the amperage the super caps will see when being brought up to the voltage of your systems. XS power uses a light bulb to do just that but there are other options.

Just make a distribution block where your under hood battery would have been and run the caps closest to the amplifier, so Alt > under hood distribution > lithium > supercaps > amplifier.

I think pioneer makes good head units, but never tried their touch screen ones. All I know is touchscreen dins are finicky if you go cheap on them... good news is crutchfield has mackin customer service so you can always return it if its buggy

Damn man, some quality work there. I was expecting just another blow through when I saw a truck in the title, but nope you went full center console on this one. Tuned in for more Rip your roof

So to try to fit in the space you mention, and allow your son to keep his cargo area depth, the final dimensions I came to are 14.5 H x 36 W x 18 D. Just a bit bigger than the prefab but this time you will end up with 3.056 cubic feet net volume, tuned to 34.95. (I tuned you lower than JL had on their website to maintain the same f3, frequency at which output will begin to be noticeably lower than the rest, to right around 32 hz). Couple things that I had to do to fit it. Sorry ahead of time, but I made it out of 3/4" mdf, I know you have a sheet already but 1" all around wastes about 0.17 of a cubic foot and leaves you with only a 1" front baffle. This design gives you a 1.5" front baffle. Feel free to add round overs where you please, in the port and outside the perimeter - it can only help. I folded the port to allow for even back pressure of the subs, so just take note of that in the sketchup designs. It won't be a standard L port I didn't allocate a ton of port for your box. In a way it can hamper maximum output due to port compression. However, smaller ports tend to have larger bandwidth and since your son also listens to metal on occasion I felt that a port area of 42.25" (13.83" per cubic foot net volume) would suffice and allow for more total net volume. (27 m/s port velocity) It is important that you put a subsonic filter on the amp at, or above, 23/24 hz. This will protect the drivers from reaching their mechanical limits, aka going too far forward and tearing up your soft parts. Here are some sketchup screenshots (JPGs can be downloaded on my google drive) and a cut sheet for a standard 3/4" x 8' x 4' sheet you can get cut up at your local Home Depot store with three long cuts and finish the cross cuts at home, or get HD to cut as many as they will. Cut Sheet Link (PDF) Sketchup Google Drive Link (JPG)

Awesome!

How about 14.5 H x 30 W x 20 D? Alternatively, 14.5 H x 35 W x 17.25 D will also yield the same net volume The prefab said it was 13.25 H x 30 W x 17.25 D

Can you fit a larger box? The prefab is kinda small to begin with. Each w7 calls for 1.75" net cubic feet. Bare minimum of 3" net to support both unless you got gobs of power...

Way I see it is you have three options. 1. Add wood to lengthen the inside of the port. Downside is you will have to make an L shaped piece and hope it fits into the sub cutouts or piece it together inside the box. PITA if you ask me 2. Extend the port outside of the box, keeping the internal volume the same, but you will achieve a lower tuning frequency by simply lengthening the port outside the box. Downside is it requires space, something you mention you are limited on, and its kinda fugly but will get the job done. Upside is it is much easier and more forgiving to get to your desire tuning. 3. All new box. Real easy to pull off and gets you much better sound for the money. Single sheet of 3/4" mdf or so will get it done. What music does he listen to mostly? Hip-hop/rap? From what I see of that amazon ad that box is 1" front baffle and 3/4" the rest of the box.

Might be possible to modify it but I think its more trouble than its worth... however if your up to it I would delid it. Remove the top piece of wood to get a look inside the enclosure so you can properly attach pieces inside to lengthen the port, also lowering the tuning. You could achieve this with a skill saw and a flat fence clamped on the box with some patience. However, adding wood inside the box will lower the internal net volume... can be a problem for output. A good box with a single sub is better than two similar subs in a choked off box any day of the week. What subwoofers? amps are you running?

Funny question but how much clearance is between your sub box port and the back hatch? It should be atleast the width of your port or more. Try turning the sub box such that the port and sub are faced upwards (towards the roof). How does it sound?

6$ a foot for 1/0 ofc??