Joshdashef

I saw a guy who put subs on the side of his box and port forward into the cabin of a trunk build. As long as the subs are in the correct polarity it should still work just fine but with 4 12s you options are kinda limited for a trunk

12 year old thread lol

You could run 4 gauge to a distribution block then 10 gauge out of that to the amp. That’s only if you plan to upgrade otherwise with only 30amps you could get away with 8 gauge for up to about 19-20 feet

Sorry I don't trust you but that bit.ly link can go to any webpage on planet earth... please change it to the actual website / youtube video you are referencing.

The RCA coming out of the headunit goes into the amplifier. It will power any amp. However. The headunit/radio it self has an amplifier built into it that outputs a set rms rating which can go directly to a speaker, not a sub, and power it just fine

long winded reply. . . . GO If you can only charge at stock voltage, 14.4 range I would go with LiFePo4 chemistry, most common is headway’s. Say you can fit a dual alternator? Or even want or can run at 15+ volts then get into the LTO or yinlongs instead like 1.21 said either way like fish said pay attention to max charge rates, headway’s can output at 25c or 200a max continuous but can only take 10c or 80a charge per bank if I remember right. LTO is different as well. Banks are made up of cells in series to increase voltage and parallel to increase capacitance or ah rating just like super cap banks are The c rating on a high level means the output / input rate of battery essentially. Some lithium’s have better ones, bigger. But it all depends on application, solar applications would have lower c than auto since we need power instantly vs over time. I’m still learning to make the best decision for my setup and right now that’s looking like headway’s. Honda has me at 14.2v . some run balancers some don’t. Balancers come in either passive or actively managed. I personally won’t use a bank without a balancer because I daily, I don’t compete where I’d see the difference in performance with/without one. best of luck, quite the topic to research and plenty of groups to go to for advice / buying cells

I never thought about port length like this, but imma screenshot that. Nice little tool to get that extra length, wonder if the miss notices those extra 3 inches

That amp is a monoblock amp, so it has only one channel. You really only need one RCA to get signal to it, but you can just run a pair of RCAs to it and use a y splitter (2 female into 1 male) to plug into that red input on the amp. Do not plug in both rcas into the input and output.

Not to divert from ops topic, but what’s the impact of going between the port width and double the port width or more of clearance from a exterior panel and the port wall? I always figured a bare minimum of the port width would be needed, and anymore wouldn’t effect anything.

Nope. Ah per ah is impossible to compare outside of chemistries. 40 ah of lto could be different than 40ah of agm or LifePo4 it depends on a lot of things. My knowledge is limited but from what I can tell it depends on the c rating, depicting the amount of essentially output a battery can give (max discharge) or receive (max input). Very high level overview but you can spend hours looking into this stuff.

Please make a new thread if you want to seek help with a horn enclosure. The program to learn to simulate those would be hornresp since WinISD isn't advanced enough

Here you can see the complete dashboard that will show you the dimensions of the ports if you were going to build them. I will be making a dedicated screen for those who want to make an hexagon or octagon port with graphics to explain what dimensions to use. Other wise you can just look at the dimensions to build the rectangular port (each side is the same) or the circular ports by the given diameter. I also added for shits and giggles an 80% circular port area for those who want to skimp on their area because they have a more efficient port

So I managed to create the dashboard today. It allows you to enter in common variables and see dynamically the changes it has on the different port styles. The table to the right shows the displacement for each port style, including the thickness of the panels. Also shows the surface area of each style of port if you wanted to know. I also made sure to have the measurements in both imperial and metric for anyone who might be using hornresp . The only limitation this has is I haven't added a way to make a slot port double thick, and the displacements assume you inlet the ports into a exterior baffle - hence why the thickness of the port wall is subtracted from the port length except for the aero ports (they are the full port length entered). With these two photos you can see the effect of going from 0 common walls to 3 with a standard slot port. Nearly 0.237 of a cubic foot just by designing the port to make use of the exterior walls. I will eventually post a link to an online test version to help work out any bugs.

^ What he said. One port is the better option, but if you split into multiple ports the LENGTH remains the same!!! If you halve the length for two ports you will be tuning way high, so make sure you keep the same length for each port regardless of how many you have. You probably will want to go with atleast an 8" aero port for that 15, just under 50" squared of port area. You can find the port area of a aero port (or a circle) via googles tool. Just input radius. Formula is Pi * r squared. https://www.google.com/search?q=area+of+circle&rlz=1C1MSNA_enUS651US651&oq=area+of+circle&aqs=chrome.0.69i59l2j69i65l2j69i60l3.1283j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

If I had the time I would help design but someone else will help you out the best they can