Joshdashef

Last I checked Mechman only made up to a 240a for my civic sadly would I see any benefit to adding the smaller capacitor they have of 500F for around 450$ Versus just adding more regular AGMs with my current 240a alt? (In a daily ride not a burp) so with a 4K/5k total system 240a alt, how many ah of AGM would be a good starting point ? 250 or 300? Or something else with supercaps ?

Bump

Sounds like you could play with what you prefer. Might be a single 10 or dual 12s. If I were you I’d build a simple sealed box for the dual 12s and see if you like it, unless space is an issue then do a sealed single 10 box. Ported can also produce clean bass but I’d avoid band pass unless you require it for space reasons like in a truck blow through... they are hard to get right goodluck man tons of resources on here

Currently run a pair of sundown SA12s off a dc 2k and a RF P600x4 on a set of t1 components. My voltage stays around 13.8-14.2 unless I’m dipping into a really hard song then it gets down to around 13.3 ish and jumps back up to 13.8-14.2. I have a mechman 240A two runs of 1/0 from front battery to rear front battery xs power d5100R rear battery d3400 around 125ah of xs power I think Upgrading to a Fi sp4v2 15 on a AAK 4000.1D or the 5500 variant. Would this be overkill? https://www.down4soundshop.com/SB1260-31/ Im thinking of running this next to the D3400 or grabbing another d3400 or selling the d3400 to grab a group 31 daily driver if that matters. Appreciate any input you guys have and any personal experience

there is a guy on here named Triticum and he made an awesome calculator to help others decide how much port area they wanna go for, give it a shot. You don’t have to get optimal port area it’s just a recommendation to help you decide

Wait you have the plug right ? You should look into re pinning the molex plug

What is your port area ? That seems super small for a 15 ?

You mention max power ratings on the subs. Never look at those, they are as good as an umbrella is when a tornados outside. stick to rms numbers for gauging what power you need. under powering a sub can’t hurt it but overpowering one can if you don’t watch them. Like Aaron said 2k amp should be good for your setup at 1 ohm.

What does your electrical look like ?

Junkyard maybe ? Might take some work but you can snag a plug off a totaled one

That meter looks sick man, your dad has some cool stuff! did some digging and found this on a forum; Source “There is a well-known LF correction that must be applied to these meters for accuracy in the bass.You can find info at: http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/speakers/messages/11710.html” and on the same page ”The weighting is for varying implementations of Fletcher-Munson type curves to compensate the level to what we actually hear. The most common are "A" and "C". The "A" curve is based on the 40 phon curve and is used for assessing environmental noise. The "C" curve is for louder noises. You can find out more about them along with the actual curves at wikipedia:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A-weighting” Sounds like an interesting tool I wonder how it’d be of use for car audio.

What are your goals ?

Thank you for the input man I appreciate it. I think I will go for your idea of two different size baffles to get a sturdier box. Im going to do some work in win isd and your port calc and see what I come up with. Hopefully I can fit close to optimal port area. Would there be any harm in going over optimal? You mentioned lose of output going down as port area went up, so I’m just curious.

Thank you! I was just wondering in my head if that’d be okay. no end grain gotcha, so just put the double baffle the entire length and height of the box and the sides, top, and bottom behind that right ? Just one question @Triticum Agricolam I’ve been using your port area calc and wanted to see if you had any input. With a box that has 3.5 or 4 cubic feet net after displacements should I shoot for the optimal port area ? Or is 70ish square inches okay ? I’ll end up with a port 14.5 high with variable length / width that’s why I’m asking.

Subwoofer has 15 5/8” diameter what is the minimum height that can still support it? as in how much room do the screws that hold it need around it? Would 16” height work ? Or is 17” better ?