Joshdashef

Background info - skip if you know it LPF = Low Pass Filter (Allows only frequencies below a set frequency) HPF = High Pass Filter (Allows only frequencies above a set frequency) Crossovers can vary with preferences but I found the manual included with the DD-1 to be quite helpful when deciding what to run your crossovers at. (Page 15 Crossover Frequency Suggestions / Page 16 Subsonic Filter Suggestions) For me, I found setting the following to be the best for my setup, but you should consider the drivers you have in your setup and alter these to your preferences. The one difference between my setup and yours is I have no rear speakers. Only a component set up front and subwoofers in my trunk. Subwoofer LPF at 80 Hz / 12dB slope Mids LPF at 3.15k / 18 db slope | Mids HPF at 100 / 18 db slope Highs HPF at 4k / 24 db slope

I've used my DD-1 even when I set my RF Punch 600x4 and I found the DD-1 picks up on distortion slightly before the Rockford amp does. I'm not sure if that can be applied towards the power series of amps but I think following the manual is a good idea regardless.

I never did the ELD bypass because if I either turn on my headlights or run my blower fans/ac then the alternator goes into high output mode, tripping the ELD. Also if your above 50/55 MPH the ELD gets tripped anyways. This is my daily commuter so it works out regardless. My voltage rests at 14.2, full tilt never dips below 13.5/13.6

I was just about to buy one of your 1st gen ones. Where can I find these new 2nd gen meters on your website?

wow that is some bs, and here I thought my civics electric load detector was shitty... The only compromise I think you could make is either do a big 2 as you referred to, or by somehow using the current sensor but splicing on 1/0 wire between it and the chassis's grounding location. I'm not sure if that would even be beneficial let alone worth your time

Does the factory ground have the battery current sensor? Why not just leave the factory ground and add in the 1/0 wire additionally?

I am no box designer but from my understanding you do not need an L-shaped port in your case, nor require a center port (that is entirely cosmetic preference and listening preference). I'm sure someone else can provide some input upon your enclosure specs and tuning. One suggestion is to provide the maximum depth your have available, as that is the only dimension you left without one. Anyways, good luck with the build man

I'm excited to see what this is.

Do you run your mids and highs off your headunits internal amplifier? In that case then yes and well even if you weren't, because your setting the maximum listening volume you prefer via the headunits source volume - in your case you want 30 instead of the maximum output of around 45 before clipping the RCA Preamp output to your sub amp. The only difference is your gain setting on your sub amps will likely be turned more to reach the same level of output at the source volume of 30 instead of 45.

I'd say get yourself a rear battery and run 2-3k rms total. Maybe 4k max if your wanting to stretch it with some extra batts/caps

Did some quality of work stuff today while I was changing the tranny fluid and spark plugs. Fixed a worn out body piece with a zip tie and a drill. Then scratched off the paint I missed when originally installing the alternator. No more alt whine ; -1 for being a dummy. Also made sure to sand the engine side of the contacts for my ground lug and opposite side.

Do you have an active DSP? If so, you could just adjust the db setting to negative for cruising and zero for demos/runs. I do that with my 80 PRS, but I still have a knob for quick adjustments. Some amps have proprietary connections I think, I'm not sure on that, but I don't think you can plug a kicker/Alpine bass knob into a Rockford per say. I think your looking for either a crescendo branded one as Skippy said, or one that takes an input from RCAs and outputs an altered signal. Here's one with RCAs https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O Here is the replacement crescendo one http://store.crescendoaudio.com/replacement-bass-knob/ And one with a phone / ethernet type cable https://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-RBC1-Remote-Control/dp/B000UVWFPM Hope this helps man, and goodluck!

Eventually I will be updating my drivers to something better but my two P3D4 12s on a DC 2k rock out. I say cheap drivers and a good amp will be better than expensive drivers on a cheap amp. Anything from Fi, Psi, DC, sundown, etc. would be good choices, and the most important aspect is what kind of enclosure you will be putting them in. For instance, if you wanted a sealed enclosure you should get a driver that is suited for that, and vice versa for a ported / band pass / etc. In saying that, if I were to run a single 12 sub - I'd go Fi sp4 as another recommended, except I'd get a 15 and call it a day.

Maybe it is an indie artist or underground.

Give this a shot or clean the ir side maybe some goo buildup blocking the signal