Joshdashef

Shameless plug is shameless... jokes aside you guys make killer products

From what I have heard those circuit breakers will get easier and easier to trip the more you switch them on/off. Eventually causing problems with the amps, etc. I'd steer clear of them imo but if you must have a quick disconnect there might be other solutions that offer a more reliable experience long term. If everything is fused properly I see no reason for a quick disconnect though, unless you plan to work around the cables a lot under the hood.

Shipping will get cha. If you can find a builder you can drive to, even a 200 mile drive is probably cheaper than shipping depending on your car

These look sick!

I have a few pieces of equipment that your about to install. Same headunit same 6.5s and use to have a pair of RF P3D4 12s only in a ported box not sealed. Headunits great for going active but I wish you could have more adjustment in the crossovers. You can't say put your LP or HP filters on a specific freq. only preset ones - lame. Besides that no issues, +1 or +2 source level on blue tooth iOS, clips at 62. RF T2 components (I have the aluminum set) they come alive off my RF P600x4 active but I kinda want more on some songs with heavy bass. Sound amazing on Pink Floyd and War to name some. I've listened to a little rock / metal on them sometimes like Led Zep, ZZ Top, Metallica, and Primus (oo do they sound good). Quality wise, solid choice, but sometimes the output is not as loud as I want. This also might be from only having the single pair of T2's with no rear speakers but I actually enjoy the sound only in the front instead of coming from behind via the rear deck. With you having a smaller cabin than me you probably will get all the output you need from a pair of T2's. My P3 12s were great for hip hop/rap but also could be decent on other genres like rock/metal. Sealed you probably will get better response and a punchier hit with those tens I'd say your set on that department.

Where did you grab the alt bracket from ?

Voltage drop at all? Thats weird af

Just thought of this. I was moving my amps around and bumped the master slave switch so instead of master it was set to slave. No output at all until I realized after almost shitting bricks that all I had to do was set it to master

When you take resistance measurements there should be no load present. if it shows up fine with the speaker terminal outputs disconnected your fine man

Is it possible to sand a slope/angle into the piece in front of the part? Wondering if that would achieve the same results and allow the floor to remain there somewhat

I was talking about sundown SA12s. I have since bought them and running them off a DC 2k right now waiting for my Fi SP4v2+ 15 to come in a month or so!!

I’m really curious. Almost want to build two boxes to find out if 28hz or 30hz is better but then again it’s such a marginal difference im going for the 30hz tune since it’s a nice middle ground between 28 and 32hz also due to some recommendations I’m bumping the volume down to 3 or 3.5. Going to mess around in winisd and report back

Depends on amp not all are able to handle below rated resistance. Plus it requires more electrical

That’s almost 4 times rated power for that sub if it puts out 600 rms at 4 ohms. Probably more like 300 but still double the power. I’d set gain by ear or dd-1 then back off of that a ways till the sub behaves

If you feel like its bottoming out you could use the supersonic filter on your amp. 20 something hertz should be fine. Some don't even use it though so up to you.