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Joshdashef last won the day on April 9

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  1. Perfect timing for me! Need some of that heat proofing material you have for a headliner
  2. Honestly, they have those under-hood safe lithium units but I would not be comfortable putting a lithium battery anywhere near my engine IMO. I would do a battery delete up front and run all my lithium in the rear (exactly what I am doing) 3 inputs would just come from your rear bank of lithium. Your alternator will only output max 350-400 amps on a good day so two runs of 1/0 is all that is necessary unless you want to make it even. I would not mix the limitless lithium's LiFePO4 with another chemistry like the S5's LTO
  3. 1/0 OFC is capable of 300 amps on a 20' run. I'd recommend a dual run of 1/0 or upsizing to single 2/0 run. Fuse to protect the wire so 300 amp fuses for 1/0.
  4. Alright here is the first online version of the calculator: Hexagonal port screens been chopped for now since it will require some macro/coding that I won't be setting up for now but the actual measurements are there still, interior and exterior. I prefer Excel but you shouldn't need a Microsoft account to open the link or edit the input fields. It will update in real time so if multiple people try to edit it at once you will run into issues so please be patient. Pasting link here and adding to first comment in post ^ Link: https://lcc.click/1mjX81f The proper way to utilize this is to use it alongside a box program like WinISD. Just work your way down the list of inputs and ignore the last one if your using a standard 3 common wall slot port. Then you will see a comparison of the internal displacements as well as surface area for various port types. *Imoh you are better off doing either Slot port, aero port or rectangular. The other hexa/octo/etc. ports are purely for style and offer only marginal benefits when compared to the others. Essentially this calculator will only help you decide on what style of port will have the least displacements and surface area that you are comfortable with. It will keep port area constant so you can decide based off purely displacement and surface area (port area * length). It is not 100% accurate due to some displacement math being different for differing port designs (aka straight ports vs L-shaped ports have different volumes associates with inner and outer walls). However, it will help you decide if you can fit that extra bit of port area by playing with dimensions of the port. Assumptions are listed, and the math is under sheet "BTS" I plan on expanding on this version so if you have anything you want added just drop a comment.
  5. That 150a of available charging does mean max amperage you can shove into it. That 25ah is meant for stock alternators that output less, so yes you will need to go a different route with that 350 amp alternator. If you go lithium I'd honestly ditch the AGM and get enough reserve to cover 75% or more of OEM specs. Then you won't have to worry about isolators, or one leeching voltage off one another causing more cycles to occur = less life. I liked JY powers blog on isolators because they were fairly simple with explanation: https://www.jypwr.com/blog/how-to-wire-agm-and-lithium-batteries-together/ You may want to also consider reading their blog on wire gauge and current capacity: https://www.jypwr.com/blog/run-power-wire-the-right-way/
  6. SP4v2+ 15" Dual 1 Ohm DC 2k per coil Box tuned to 31 hz | ~4 net cubic feet | ~5.7 gross Slot port, 14.5 x 4" | 58" squared port area | 34.20 length | WinISD shows ~35/36 m/s rear port velocity Finally getting around to building with this sub after getting a new car... just want thoughts/input on this box design.
  7. Snowdrifter made a helpful post about this with link to a download for a -7.5 db 40 hz. Close enough
  8. Yeah you got it, set with bluetooth and double check on other sources
  9. Imo spotify is a pain in the ass to add your own files to use on your phone; I've tried, and it seems it is now broken yet again from when I made a post last year about it. The playlist you mention is likely from the Rockford Fosgate 3sixty setup which is completely fine to use. Otherwise I would add the files from https://www.wccaraudio.com/downloads to something like apple music or google music - much easier. The difficulty with using bluetooth is that some head units can actually accommodate higher than the base source level without distorting. For instance my 80 PRS on bluetooth can take +2 or +3, I can't remember, on source level in settings to reach a distortion point at 61; while at 0 source level it just doesn't distort at 62. The video below from 5star shows exactly this; and also shows the CD will get you the same RCA out voltage (4.9) at 0 source level with max volume as the blue tooth (4.9) at 62 with +2 source level. This varies unit to unit though, so you will have to test yourself. Imo just tune with the most common source unit you will be using.
  10. At first I thought it was a glitch or something when it happened a few days ago, but it just repeated itself tonight. I was looking at a post and it showed me signed in as @MrSkippyJ, no clue how or why this was. @SnowDrifter Ever seen/heard of this kind of problem before? Also showed his profile avatar at the place next to where you could comment, but upon refreshing the page I am signed back into my own account...
  11. Junkyard might have a wreck that you can open up and salvage just the connectors with some extra length of wire to solder into where your existing wires are
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