Joshdashef

You should never have to max out the gains to set them, so something is a muck here. So the 3/4 volume trick works great for headunits you don't know the distortion point on, but that unit - the 80 PRS - does not distort lol. At least mine does not according to a DD-1 unless you up the output level through settings beyond stock. Try putting your headunit to 61 and try it again. Also the 80 PRS has a standard and a network mode, what mode are you in? I've never set with a DMM but I would think the efficiency of the amp would decrease the amount of watts to maybe 70-80% of the total? Making the sqroot of (3000 x .8 [efficiency]) or sqroot (2400) = 48.98 ? Some stuff to check: -Check what your RCAs are coming from in the back of the 80 PRS, make sure you are connected to the subs/bass output as the manual states. -What are your settings on your amp? LPF? Subsonic? LPF should be all the way up and subsonic should be all the way down, fine tune these after setting your gain. -What is the voltage on the DC side of your amp terminals? If the car is on and your below 14v check your grounds. Goodluck man!

Maybe they're using google translate ? That would explain the uhh.. shit sentences, for a lack of a better word.

You might even enjoy a dual 8 or single 10 sealed box bro. Ported will definitely give you higher output but sealed could get you what your looking for so don't dismiss it so easily. I will say I love my SA12s so I'm sure the 8's are just as good. If output is your goal then get a single 10 or a single 8 ported, simple cone area advantage. Unless you can fit two 8s in there.

Yeah High output alternator for a system under 1k rms is a waste of money honestly. First things first, grab your self a meter and check your alternators output before buying any batteries. This video could help you diagnose any issues with the alternator. If your alt looks good then throw a XS power, northstar, hell even a yellow top if you want in it. I just checked XS power's website and it didn't find a direct replacement but you might be able to use another one of their batteries with a smaller or slightly larger size with some modifications.

high output alternator really is for after you have done a few things. 1) big three upgrade - atleast 1/0 size wiring. This will help allow grounds in the rear of your vehicle to reach to front with less resistance, among other things 2) upgraded front battery to either AGM or a quality lead acid 3) possibly a rear reserve battery I ran my stock alternator on a civic which was about the same as yours for a rockford 750 prime with no voltage issues. I had a front AGM and no rear. I upgraded to big three sometime between that and my upgrade to 2k. What battery do you have in your car now? Your amp is pulling less than 70 amps and is running at 2 ohms (more efficient than 1 ohm) so you should have no issues with voltage unless your alternator itself is a lemon.

What do I have to give the troll to pass the bridge?

https://www.wolframaudio.com/products/arctic-li-70-70ah-lto-battery Thoughts on this 70 Ah LTO ?

If you will be placing the amp in a location besides the factory one then get your signal from the headunit. it will be easier whenever you decide to get an aftermarket headunit.

I use a mechman 240A on my Honda Civic 2008 (8th gen) and my voltage with and without the ELD is basically 14.2 on load, (before I just disconnected the ELD I use to vary between 12.8 [when the ELD went into low output] and 14.2 [when the ELD went into high output] but never beyond that.) If you want higher voltage I would talk to the guys at Singer or US alts to see if you can get anything externally regulated. Not really sure what your saying as far as the battery goes but the ELD will restrict your voltage regardless if you run straight from the alternator (+) to a battery (+). If you go beyond 1k watts you should really look into 1/0 wire instead of 4ga

Super weird because they have the specs of the stealth lineup here https://www.americanbassusa.com/pub/media/PDF/VFL-Audio-Catalog-2019_LOWRES.pdf

lot of the time the host server that holds the pictures has deleted the link due to inactivity, max hits, etc. Can only hope the original creator has a backup so they can re-upload it

(tpi440) Isn't that the same oscope Exo used? Anyways. Check this out, @CodyDaGoat The Nano V3 can be found here - https://www.seeedstudio.com/DSO-Nano-v3.html - among other websites Also , you can change the frequency of the waves you see im pretty sure, aka zooming in and out to see clipped waves. Not sure if you can on the tpi440 but the Nano V3 can I'm pretty sure.

Honestly would love to go to LTO for the benefits but my charge hovers at 14.2v. If I remember right LTO cells like 15v+ LifePo4 like the standard 14.4v area. For this reason I’m going to go for LifePo4 the easiest way I know through limitless. Custom builds seem cheaper but after cells, bms, bussing, and case/flame retardant foam, its not that much more to buy premade. I am airing towards getting an additional cap setup of around 500F to supplement the lithium.

How often do you charge the lithium up with a lithium charger ? Do you disconnect it if your going to have it sit for a while (>3 days). What kinda power you running off the 45ah and what’s your voltage drop? sorry for all the questions Just have a lot of ifs right now

What I want to do but only room for a single 240 alt in this civic unless I learned to fabricate my own custom bracket system for a second one and that’s pushing the limit of space