Joshdashef

Not to draw comparisons on any brands but don't limit yourself to a single brand. Look at others also within your budget like Rockford, DC, sundown, fi, etc.

That is God awful packaging. How can someone be so stupid to not even try

I found using LED headlights got rid of my headlight dim. I think its possible to install a capacitor of sorts in line to the headlights to fix the issue with halogens but I'm not entirely sure - probably more trouble than its worth.

Usually I just refer people to that exact site to help them with their subs... It's all right there for you bud but with two dual 4 ohm subs your options are either 1 ohm or 4 ohm for a mono (one channel amp) the options can differ with a 2 channel bridged or non bridged which is shown further down on that same website.

I second upgrading to a new headunit. It's worth the 100-200 bucks for a dash kit and head unit (single din)

I use t2 rockford components ran active off a p600x4. They are clear and get loud, but if I was looking for more mid bass not mid range - I'd throw in an 8 inch in the doors.

This looks sick as hell

Blue systems has some good fuse blocks that can handle most accessories and they come in different sizes, but idk if they have water proof ones. I use one in my build to run two volt meters, horn, and LEDs. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/16/Fuse_Blocks You can find them on Amazon and other online stores.

Currently I have two XS power batteries; D5100R under the hood and a D3400 in the trunk. If I am playing music with the car off, what is the lowest voltage I can reach before causing damage to the batteries? I have a little stinger volt meter and analog one to watch it when the cars off.

Use rear rear and then crossover settings to cut the frequencies above 80 hz or whatever you prefer on the sub.

Joe X you are the MVP man. Not one but two suggested box designs

Quick maths

I can attest to the quality of second skin. I've handled both dynamat and the equivalent in second skins and both are great but I personally think SS is easier to apply/mold to various shapes inside a car. (Side note - the SS stuff looks better imo and between that 10% off and the Christmas sale I'm betting is coming up you can do your whole car for a small investment with huge payoff!)

Fi has a 7" driver might work with modification. Imo get a solid component set for your door speakers. Drop the most you can and want on a solid pair. Then put some coax in the rear or some pro speakers. You should have factory tweeters in the far corners of the dash for the component set. I run my Civic with t2 components off a p600x4 active and they sound great. They keep up with my two 12s on a DC 2k and that's without rear speakers at all.

Having two woofers allows for greater thermal limits, so 2 10s would be what I'd go with. Unless you have a plan to get another of one of those 12s later down the road but they are dual 2 so you'd be running at .5 ohms nominal. Just my 2¢ Either way I think you'll enjoy it