AaronT

Are you hooked to front rear or sub RCA. And what tone are you using?

Solved. ¾" holes

Anyone got a solution to this issue here? These are my door boots.... Ffs a molex plug. I'm thinking of 1) there's some dead space on the sides of plug, drill it out and bitch metal to fit the dang 12g wires. 2) unpinning the entire damn harness and reconnect using which disconnect barrel type and keeping the now unused plugs as gromets for boots with centers drilled for wire. 3) finding a set of aftermarket boots and installing them The front will be a bitch to do the reconect or drill side of plug idea.

Thx, I literally started stripping doors today, and ended up pulling all 4 seats out and all body panels. Cool thing, it seems these cars were made for this shit. In the rear there a plastic thing that holds jack, it's the entire width and length of the rear cargo area under carpet. It has a 8.5" wide 4" deep 35" long valley molded into the plastic sub floor that will hold about 6 or 7 kinetic hc700 agms (or similar size stinger Or any other manufacturer 12 -15 amp hour batteries. I'm gonna stick 3 in there instead of using a larger 55 amp hour battery. This is one of the few times I'm being pleasantly surprised as i rip an interior out. Even the rear doors have sail panels with rubber plugs behind to feed tweeter wire through and are deep enough so I don't have to build them out far with body filler to build pods, nice little MDF angled pod and very minimal body filler will be easy. I'll upload links to pics here, I'll use this as the build log I guess. I'm just still undecided on where the passive x-overs are going.im thinking of adding a angles panel to amp rack or recessing them in b and c pillars respectively fir front and rear doors I really want them nearer the speakers as it will save wire. I do not want them in doors as they look too cool to hide and have that Rockford flair I like to display, as well as the attenuation switches and axis switch.

Basic, Deadener all through doors n quarters and hatch. Factory speakers replaced with rockford T2 6.5 components, 1/0 ofc big 3 and run to rear, 2 agms group 78 under hood and rear. Sundown sd3 8 in factory sub enclosure, RF T400-4 (bridged 2 channel) on rear comps, RF T 600-2 on front comps, RF T 1000-1 bdCP on sub at 4 ohms. Decent mid level pioneer Double Din, audio control matrix plus 6 channel line driver to give me 5 volts on signal to amps and when done being built CES 220 amp internal 14.8v bypass alternator. This is replacing my family car grocery getter that I'm done dumping money into So far this year in the car is replacing I replaced the flexplate flywheel did upper and lower intake manifold gaskets put all four new shocks and struts on it wheel bearings. But unfortunately my wife drive that car as well and I didn't get around to changing the intake manifold gaskets soon enough before the fucker got so hot it blew a head gasket I'm not going to fix it and I'm not doing a head gasket in it it's got a hundred sixty thousand miles on it and it's just going to be driven till the wheels fall off I can't really keep antifreeze in the car as it loses about the entire cooling system in a week and come wintertime I'm not dumping $50 of antifreeze in the car every week

The only thing with this car it's a very low miles Ford escape there's like under 60000 on it I got it for a awesome deal but the previous owner was an old man do I swear to God must have had stock in armor All because like I feel like I'm on a fucking slip and slide when I enter this car you can't even get into thing without leaving black streaks all over your clothes from the door seals being so oversaturated with armor all so I'm only guessing that there's a lot of build-up on the inside underneath the door panels I'm going to be tearing into this project in about 45 minutes the only thing I've done so far was think about it I'm going to go home and rip off all the door panels, install the battery do the big-3, dead everything and then I have to wait on the components and all the other shit step by step

So I'll use alcohol then lightly scuff with sanding sponge turn more alcohol I'm ocd.

So what do you use to clean the metal surface on the doors prior to applying second skin? I was thinking of denatured alcohol or 91% rubbing alcohol but I could be wrong what is the correct way to prep the metal surface?

It did over on uncertified, that's a win in my book. What's the S/N ratio and THD on these? What kind of current did it pull on uncertified.?

Profile 2400 2 channel on 2 cerwin Vega 12s 1998