Dafaseles
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Posts posted by Dafaseles
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16 minutes ago, Joe mama said:
Fuck this site and signing up
Well that escalated quickly
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As far as amplifier, anything 4000-4500 watts would be fine. You'll probably want to go with 1 amp because you have 2 dual 1's, so with one amp you'll be able to run at 1 ohm.
As far as brand... I'd say just stay away from dual, boss, power acoustic, and hyphonics. Any of the big brands would do you well. Most amplifiers today will do rated or a little more.
Alternator, you've got it easy having an older suburban. Everyone makes alternators for your truck. Mechman, singer, brand x and JS come to mind.
And the mounting is just a preference thing. No real benefit either way usually. Motor up means the enclosure can be smaller because there is no subwoofer displacement inside the box, but 99% of the sub is outside the box. And cone out is just the opposite. The only thing is you have to reverse the polarity if you're running motor up. When the bass hits, it's usually preferable to have the cone move towards the outside of the box first, then recoil into the box.
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6 hours ago, RageTheWicked said:
So I saw the manual that said use -10 for loud setting. So what is the -15 used for? Wouldn't that be used for louder sound? I did some research and found music these days whether it be pop or hip hop use a range between -12 to -14 on their recordings.
-15 would be louder than -10. I'd say use -10 to be safe. If you use -15, you'll still probably be safe, but I would monitor it closely to make sure you're not sending to much of a clipped signal to the speakers.
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4 hours ago, Metelface420 said:
Sorry dvc and svc*
Not a good idea. Not a good idea to even run them on different amplifiers but in the same setup. You want to run all the same drivers with the same ohm load or you'll run into more problems than it's worth. Possibly damaging equipment.
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6 hours ago, Wolfbites said:
I don't know if mine does it, it never has, or I've never noticed it. I look at it as a precision tool so I am extremely careful. I've always been taught a bent level helps no one. It doesn't sound like you'd be the person to drop it or throw it around though.
This might sound stupid, but it's work so many other times with the DD1's and CC1's. Change the battery to a brand new Energizer. If that doesn't help, yeah, maybe it's out of calibration. Who knows what happened to it during shipping
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I just treat mine like it's made of porcelain lol
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That is mean looking with the back hatch open! So dope!
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25 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:
I NEED T.P. FOR MY BUNGHOLE! Hehehe.... would you like to see my bunghole?hehehehe
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13 hours ago, Alfdawg said:
I have a pioneer nex 4500. The other day I tuned by 4 channel amp with the dd1. My max undistorted volume was 38. After I was done I went in the sound menu and noticed loudness was set at mid. Do I need to find the max undistorted volume again with the loudness off or should I be good?
Technically, you should be good.
If it where me though, I would just turn off the loudness and redo to steps. I would fear that there would be some songs recorded differently that would cause clipping, but I'm also kind of anal when it comes to stuff like that.
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41 minutes ago, Ice Cold 205 said:
Hey everyone I am Ice Cold, a music producer from Birmingham, Alabama. I’ve been into car audio for over two decades. I found out about this site from searching for a dash kit for my 2014 Ford Explorer xlt. The build that I plan to do on this one is going to be sick. Thanks for letting me aboard! #positivevibes
Welcome! If the build is going to be sick, make sure to start a build log. We love to see it
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2 hours ago, Grimmjoww said:
Sup guys, name's Rob. I found the site while trying to get back into the scene just a little. Was watching quite a few of Williston labs reviews on amps and subs and looked into your products and vids. Thought you seemed to be a solid businessman with good ethics and some sick installs. So I decided to hop in here for some modest advice. Glad to be here, havent been around bass since 1999 LOL.
Welcome!
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14 minutes ago, wildchild420187 said:
Where do I buy this. E mail me please
https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products/smd-speaker-terminals.html
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RIP. Fuck cancer! Sorry for your loss everyone. Sad, sad day
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33 minutes ago, meade916 said:
its all been talked about in the videos 👌🏼😎
Damn, must have missed it. I'll rewatch them
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4 hours ago, meade916 said:
How did you go about grounding the rear lithium batteries and dealing with the RVC? Or does it not matter because you "bypassed" the RVC by going externally regulated with the alternator...I ask because I have to deal with the RVC in my truck very soon. Battery delete up front, lithium in the bed.
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If you must go Skar, SKv2-3500.1D if you're running at 1 ohm
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@Anthony10111upgraded his electrical system and got a Taramps Smart 3 and loves it last I heard. We went back and forth with him about his power acoustics amp. When he finally caved and bought a Smart 3, he couldn't believe the difference. But you can't run that amp on stock electrical. No amp that would power those subs properly will run off stock electrical.
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Well dude, I hate to be negative, but you're not getting even 1000 watts total out of that power acoustics amp. Even if you beef up your electrical.
We just had this same exact problem with another member. Same subs, same amp. He beefed up his electrical, did the big 3, bought a Taramps smart 3 amplifier, and now he's blowing eardrums.
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First, those are not 2500 watt subs. They are 1250 watt subs. Tuned correctly and in the correct enclosure, you could put 1500-1700 watts to them and be fine.
What amp are you running? Any upgrades to your electrical system? Do you have the dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm? Do you know the specs of your enclosure? What kind of vehicle are they in?
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So, with not knowing exactly what LOC you have....
Usually a level control is the same as a gain. So if you're testing your head unit after the LOC, if the "gain" is turned down on the LOC, it could be effecting the signal going into the DD-1. Just saying, that's a possibility.
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I would say if you change the battery and get the same results, you should be able to at least go 3/4 volume at the head unit. There could just be an anomaly at that volume, just enough to tweek the sound wave and set the DD-1 off.
The LOC you're using doesn't have any type of gain or level control does it?
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I would say the DD-1 it's superior, and it can detect very minute signs of distortion, not just clipping.
But I do find out hard to believe your stock head unit is clean all the way up. It's possible, but not probable.
This might sound obvious and stupid, but change the battery in the unit to a strong, named brand battery. It's been the issue with problems with the DD-1 more times than I can count. Though it doesn't necessarily seem like you're having a problem with the DD-1 itself. You're head unit might just be pretty good.
What kind of LOC are you using?
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9 minutes ago, meade916 said:
Hella dope!
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23 hours ago, meade916 said:
Been trying to find an empty battery case for my battery relocation and can never find one! Lol
Are my amps strappable?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
This is a thread from 2009.
It was a kind of amp linkage tool so you could essentially take 4 1000 watt amps and make a 4000 watt amp. It's pretty obsolete now though considering you can buy 30k watt amplifiers.