Dafaseles
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Posts posted by Dafaseles
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35 minutes ago, SnowDrifter said:
Put some lights on the bike and wired right to the battery. Hated dicking around with rechargeable schitt. Funny thing is: These were 27 bucks.... The rechargable handlebar mount thing I had on there before was 55...
Also a MUCH needed brake upgrade thanks to a VERY good friend. The OG brakes sort of.... Ate the dust yesterday
Those are some lights!
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2 hours ago, Dantyson92 said:
Yea but I have two dvc 2ohm vd10s so I want my rp1500.1 at 2ohm but really I’d love to see the 1ohm load but I screwed up and got the 2ohm subs … I’d I had 2 dvc 4 ohm subs then I can do the 1ohm load … I didn’t know that when. I bought the 2ohm dvc vd10s like a month ago and now I bought all skar amps and door speakers (mids and highs) all skar …. And another thing is I juat bought a kicker nickel plated positive terminal for the battery and it takeS my 1/0 gauge ofc wire and I got a rp75.4 channel amp for my coaxials in my four doors then I got a distribution block 1/0 gauge input to 2 4 gauge output and a 2 farad stinger capacitor for the rp1500.1 now after all this I’ve got I am. Kinda stumped on how to best wire this all up. Can you give any recommendations? Thank you for your help I really appreciate it . ( this is everything I have to install ) “see pics”
thank you again
dan
Yeah, 1 ohm isn't going to happen. But if you wire each sub to a 4 ohm load each, then connect each sub to the amp, the amp will see a final 2 ohm load. You don't have to connect the 2 subs. If each sub is 4 ohm each, then because it's a single channel mono block, so connecting both 4 ohm subs to the amp will give the single channel a final 2 ohm load.
To install all that stuff, you first should start with what's called the big 3/4 upgrade. You need to upgrade the cable from the alternator positive to the battery positive (preferably for the power you're running, a high amp hour AGM) to at least 4 ga OFC (or 1/0 depending on your alternator amperage). Then upgrade
The cable from the battery negative to the engine block/ alternator to preferably 1/0 (everything should be OFC cable or at least pure copper. No CCA cable). Then from the engine block, a nice thick cable going to a spot on the frame that you have cleaned. I usually recommend a nice thick one from the battery negative to the chassis/ firewall as well.
Then from the battery positive, 1/0 to a 350a fuse as close to the battery as you can. Then from that fuse, back to I guess the cap. I've never used a cap, and everyone that I've spoken to that used to use them, won't ever again. I guess they cause more problems than they fix. So in my opinion, I'd ditch it. But if you want to use it, go ahead. I ain't ya daddy.
Then, take that 1/0 into a dual fused distribution block in the general area of the amplifiers. (There's different ways of fusing, but this is how I do it) One slot will have a 120a fuse. That will be for the 4 ga going to the subwoofer amplifier. The other will have a 60a fuse with 8 ga going to the 4 channel amp.
Any other questions, don't hesitate to ask bud!
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So you have a speaker terminal for each sub? So 2 speaker terminals?
In that case, for the amplifier to see a final 2 ohm load, you would wire each like this so each would have a final 4 ohm load
and then once you hook each sub up to their respective speaker terminals in the amp, the amp would see a final 2 ohm load.
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As far as the mids and highs go, I'd set the HPF at about 100 hz, and that's it. Set your gains with a DD-1 (best), an oscilloscope (good), or digital multimeter (better than nothing). There are videos on YouTube that will teach you how.
I'm not going to tell you to get rid of the caps, but I've never had good luck with them.
I would just keep the subs flush personally, but you can invert them and see which sound you like better. If you invert them, just make sure you wire them 180 degrees out of phase.
I'm not quite following how you wired the subs. Are you connecting both subs to a single quick connect? Or does each woofer have its own?
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20 minutes ago, SnowDrifter said:
Finally got another bike after someone cut the fucking lock off my last one.... Went a little crazy and did a thing...
Have another couple bits and bobs to wrap up on it, but it's there and rideable. Bigger brakes, storage baggie. Going to do some shenanigans with the rear hub to get my gear range back since I only have a single front sprocket now.
It's a fucking blast to ride. And it's pretty nice not having to pay out the ass for parking lmao.
Definitely not taking chances with this one. Have a fat ass fucking chain lock, U-lock, motion sensing alarm on it, and the thing comes inside with me when I'm home. Want to put GPS tracking on it, but have yet to find a tracker that tickles my fancy. Open to suggestions if anyone knows of anything - goal being to have something hidden in the frame or otherwise concealable, 7d+ battery life, <$10/mo subscription cost, and doesn't look like the manufacturer is going out of business (only 2 I found that I liked, the company is all but MIA).
1500w mid drive, 650wh battery. Get about 20mi on a charge riding like a bat out of hell. Closer to 40-50 if I'm reasonable
Man, it's crazy what they're doing with bikes nowadays🤣 I haven't bought a bike since the early 2000's 🤣 dope ride though man!
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13 minutes ago, meade916 said:
the wife asked me to make her a giant wall clock with Roman numerals. I guess i could have just bought one but it was more fun to make. Made of 3/16” black acrylic (laser cut) and a few hours of design time. It works great and she loves it!
That's so f-cking dope!
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I would just slap it in the charger really quick. If it's completely full, the charger should tell you. That charger shouldn't overcharge it
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Just now, MECHMAN said:
We prefer to stay away from external regulators unless you're needing 17+ volts. In most cases people just want a knob to be able to adjust their voltage everytime they see it move .1 or .2 volts and freak out because they think something is wrong. External voltage regulators get abused by those not knowing why and how to use them.
The voltage is meant to be SET and FORGET but what happens is they'll have like 1 terrible battery, sit idling and watch their voltage drop on a 30hz 2 minute kick, see their voltage dropping and then just think, "Well, guess I better crank up the volts!". <<<kill me now>>>
So if you are wanting to Ext Reg. your setup, your least concern should be a battery light coming on/staying on.
What we prefer to do is just use the older 4pin NON RVC controlled part numbers in those applications. They physically fit and work just fine, but you'll need to use our P103 bypass plug to keep your charge light off.
We used to offer many "adjustable" electronics for voltage and what not, but seriously everyone would buy them, wire nut install them and either complain it didn't work or would just crank them to max voltage(19+) and blow up their 12 dollar Wal Mart battery.
I'm the RGA guy here so I physically SEE this when they come in. If anyone wants more info feel free to privately contact me at [email protected] or on F-Book/Insta. I love the forums but social media messenger has sped up the communication very well.
The below video may help explain the bypassing issue I spoke about. And yes, that Tony is THIS Tony.
I'm sorry, I was talking about the voltage controller on my truck. Not external. But you've already helped me. I was talking to you through email yesterday.
Thanks again! I really appreciate it!
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1 hour ago, Never Enough Bass said:
It should be good lol I'll find out here in a little bit now the hard part is figuring out how to set the subsonic with the cc-1
What's hard about it? I'm going to need to do the same thing..... eventually🤣
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2 minutes ago, Never Enough Bass said:
Door speakers on headunit power right now lol I just did it 6×9's didn't like that 40hz I could smell them
Damn lol. Hopefully you didn't cook them. If you had a HPF for them on your head unit, I would have just set that. Or took the door panel off and disconnected them at the speaker
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42 minutes ago, Never Enough Bass said:
If I turn all my crossovers off and everything how do I get my door speakers to not play this 40 hz while adjusting my gain
unplug the speakers from the amp
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It is possible that your head unit doesn't distort.
Just some things to check. It's the eq set to flat on the head unit? Does the 40 hz detection light come on in the unit? Have you tried 40 hz and 1000 hz? Does the unit have a fresh, name brand, strong battery? What LOC are you using? (Im guessing it's the clarion?) Does the LOC have a gain? Is that gain in the LOC set correctly? Does the LOC have the function where it corrects the output signal of the stock head unit so it is, and remains, a flat signal? (A lot of vehicles nowadays manipulate the head unit signal so the crappy, paper, stock speakers sound ok, but are protected from lower signals. As you turn up the volume, it'll actually cut the lower frequencies more to protect the stock speakers)
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5 minutes ago, Never Enough Bass said:
Just a blinking clip every time I hit 13.4 and it's rated at 1750 at 1 ohm I only had the gain around 38.1 ac v
A little blink here and there isn't anything to worry about. It's just a soft clip. The voice coil can usually dissipate that extra heat pretty quickly. The more it happens, the more worried you should be though
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1 minute ago, Never Enough Bass said:
My sfb 1500 would clip when I hit 13.4v
A hard, light stays on clip? Or, blink every now and again type clip?
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Well, batteries will also help the alternator hold the voltage as well. The electricity is coming from wherever the amplifiers can pull it from.
I should have asked you this before, but what voltage are you dipping to? Really, if it's not under 12 volts, it's not really anything to worry about and you're clipping for a different reason.
And I'd change that CCA stuff out to OFC or welding wire. Watching some comparison videos on YouTube, CCA doesn't transfer voltage anywhere near as well as pure copper or OFC. Just remember, if you go welding cable, to up the size. 1/0 OFC car audio cable is about the same size as 2/0 welding cable
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Well, yeah. With a single smart 3, and that 320 alternator, I would run 2 80ah or more AGM's (or a decent lithium). Regardless of how many ohms you have the subs set to. Those amps are power hungry.
The fuses are only to keep the amplifier from receiving too much current. If your voltage is dropping, then your not supplying the amplifier with enough current. So no, the fuses wouldn't blow.
Absolutely more electrical will help with clipping. Basically the amplifier is trying to produce "3000 watts", but it doesn't have the power to make it. So it's still trying, but not able to, so it ends up clipping or trying to exceed its electrical capabilites.
Also, what size wire do you have going into the smart 3? The manual says 4 awg, but a lot of things I've read says that amp still needs 1/0.
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7 minutes ago, Never Enough Bass said:
Only if I knew how to do it that's a billion dollar idea right there whoever reads this and makes it I need 10% lmao
Well, usually what I've seen people in my position do is go externally regulated alternator, and completely bypass the controller. Then just do the big 3 like normal.
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3 hours ago, Never Enough Bass said:
Someone should make an aftermarket voltage regulator ring for these reason so people like us can shove lots of wires threw it
That would actually help a lot! Lol
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@MECHMANI have a question you might be able to help me with. I'll try to keep it as short as possible.
I am putting a system into a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 1500. Installed, I have a Mechman Elite 370 (about 5 or 6 years old). My truck has the voltage regulator controller in between the battery negative and the engine block ground.
I read from a piece of Mechman literature, and I've also seen Mr. Meade talk about it in his escalade, that because of the voltage controller, you shouldn't ground anything to the frame, and instead of a big 3 upgrade, it would be more like a big 2 upgrade.
My question is about my plan to ground everything. If it's right and will it be sufficient. I won't be running a battery under the hood, just a lithium battery in the bed with the amps and the subwoofer enclosure, so I have a battery delete setup in the stock battery location. Amplifiers are 2 Sundown SALT 4's, a Cresendo C2000.4D, and a Cresendo S1 (880.4).
The positive side is just 2 runs of 1/0 from alternator to battery delete, then battery delete to Lithium battery in the bed (along with proper fusing).
My plan to ground is a run of 1/0 from the lithium battery to a "negative terminal" in the battery delete location. Then 1/0 from that terminal, through the voltage regulator "doughnut", then to the engine block ground location. Will that be enough ground for the lithium battery?
For the amplifiers, their grounds will go to a solid distribution block, then 2 runs of 4/0 from the distro block the the alternator ground. So you think this would be correct? Sufficient? Also, should I also send a run or 2 from the lithium battery ground to the solid distro block as well? Or would that confuse the voltage regulator somehow?
Sorry for the long question. Hopefully you can shed a whole lot of light on this for me.
Thank you in advance
I also included a picture just incase my description was confusing
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16 minutes ago, Angel Galvan said:
When I had the Smart 3 I only had 1 12 and only had the xs battery stock alt. So I never actually fully tilted it but it never got hot me. Today i'm just waiting for the carpet for the subwoofer box for 2 12s. No subs hooked up yet. Gonna be posting on tiktok lmao I have a few videos there of my single 12. @A_F_YT_ on tiktok
I'm an old fucker, I don't mess with tik-tok 🤣
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1 hour ago, Angel Galvan said:
I appreciate it, idk if you remember but I was asking help for a taramps hd 3k i used to have lmao. I finally got my electrical right and boy I have noticed a good difference. I sold that amp got the smart 3 just sold it a few days ago and got the smart 3 bass from taramps. Added a 12 so now I have 2 12s Skar Vxf want to run them on .5 ohms.
You'll be slapping then! Have you noticed a diffrence between the smart 3 and the smart 3 bass?
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2 hours ago, Angel Galvan said:
So xs recommends no more than 14.4 volts on a d3400, i recently got a high output alternator and it outs out 14.84 cold and 14.65 after a 20 minute drive.
Will 14.65 destroy the battery ? Or will the computer in my f150 2002 regulate the voltage over time ? I had disconnected the battery so everything reset in the truck.
If it is too much will I need to get the 16v version ?
You shouldn't have any problems. My alternator can jump up to 15.3 at times with no issue when I ran AGM batteries.
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19 minutes ago, HybridNistico said:
Thanks so much for your reply. This is just a musical system in my daily driver. Will do some additional testing with results to be posted here soon, but disheartened to be able to see 2,500 watts at 60hz (which I never play) and then such low numbers at 40hz and lower (which is what I primarily play). I hear what you're saying about the Cyber 6K, but I feel like I'd be surprised to see much of a difference by going to a Cyber 12K or by adding an additional 6K. I also forgot to mention that the truck is running on an AGM under the hood and I'm using a Stinger isolator to keep the batteries separate during non-use.
The isolator should do is job. While the truck is on, those 2 batteries are about the same voltage, so that shouldn't be an issue.
You also have to think about your truck using the alternator. If you've got a truck that has this gadget and that doodad, it needs amperage from the alternator as well. Say your truck needs 60 amps.... well that brings you down to 240 amps available at whatever RPM they rated the alternator at. (I think it's usually between 2300 and 2500 RPM's, cold, but I could be mistaken). Still much more than your stock alternator, but it's one of those little things people forget to factor in.
Also, I'm not super familiar with dodge trucks, but it's there any type of voltage regulator on the truck? That could definitely cause a charging issue as well. I had that problem on my old system in my truck because the stereo shop didn't know how to ground it properly. My batteries where always dead. (That's why this upgrade, I'm doing it myself🤣 that shop screwed me because I didn't have the time to do it myself. But l big mistake).
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54 minutes ago, HybridNistico said:
Hey guys,
I'm not sure if these forums are completely dead, but I'm going to give this a go. I'm looking for help. Here is a rundown of my setup:
2017 Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cab Sport
Big 4, Singer 300A alternator, Limitless Lithium 6K, all 2/0 wiring, solid grounds
OEM head unit w/ PAC AmpPRO 6-channel integration/RCA outs
DC 5K and DC 90.4
JL Audio 3 way separates up front, JL audio co-axials in rear
DC Audio Level 6 18" in a Kerf Customs 5.5' cubic foot box tuned to 34hz (dual 2 ohm in parallel for 1 ohm mono load)
Doing 148.2 on the dash at 33-34hz
I recently started playing with an SMD AMM-1. Prior to the AMM-1, I was using a clamp meter and multi-meter to get an approximate power level going to the sub and figured it was around 1,500 watts which I wasn't thrilled with.
Now, with the AMM-1, it's even worse because of the Power Factor calculation. At the end of the day, I'm seeing around 800 watts and *I think* 7-8 ohms at 40hz. At 60hz, I saw 2,500 watts at about 2 ohms. At 30-35 hz, I'm literally maxing out at 7-800 watts before clipping. Something is not adding up. I watched for voltage at the Limitless 6K, and starting voltage was around 14.2, and during the run, the lowest I could get it to drop to was somewhere in the low 12's. This was also surprising to see the Limitless drop to low 12's on voltage when it's rated for 6k+ watts, and it was happening during 7-800 watt runs.
The system is pretty loud and gets violent in the cabin at 33-34hz, but I'm really wondering if I'm leaving *a lot* on the table by missing something huge. These numbers aren't adding up to me and figured someone here may be able to help me troubleshoot? Thanks so much in advance!
I'll tell you this, just because that's what the battery says is rated for "6k", that's considering everything is perfect. Perfect RPM's at the alternator, perfect amount of amps going into the battery, all that.
Dropping into the 12's, yeah, you're leaving a little bit on the table, though if you're rising to 7-8 ohms, and still pushing around 800 watts, it's rated for 900 watts at 4 ohm. I can't find an amp dyno test on YouTube where they did a 4 ohm test at 14.7 ish volts. (Just to kind of guesstimate). I would think at 14 at 8 ohm, you should see about 1000 or so.
Do you compete? Or is this just a musical system in your daily driver?
Random Picture Post V2
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
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You built that? That's awesome!