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shane35fowler

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  1. No no don't get caught up on a single amplifier.... I have multiple Class AB 4 chan's I can use. Probably will use.... Specifically was wondering about the effect of sending the L&L to Bridged front and R&R to Bridged rear from the Processor. Audiofanaticz nailed what I was working at....but admittedly struggling. I have a DSP but I also have an Old Sony XEC1000 Active Crossover. It has processing for up to four separate stereo outs and one stereo or mono sub. My specific problem lies with all the amps I do have and the Previous owners install techniques... While they have a great sonic signature they aren't particularly powerful excluding my sub amp(Class D 175amp of fuseing on 3x 12" L7s in 3.44CuFt Sealed) . I think the Boston acoustic GT40 is the most powerful at 55w RMS at 4ohm. The rest are 50w RMS. My specific issue is with how my previous owner sound deadening the truck and mounted the Components. So while the 3 layers of rattletrap through the entire cab is great (will literally pop your ears just by turning the AC/Hear on without recirc if you have the windows up) the expanding foam in the kick panels makes it very difficult to run new wire to my doors to run everything fully active. I also do not have the replacement wave guides for the Kicker QS 6.5 Components to take the tweets and mount them separately. So instead of using the DSP with the Passives and as my HU has t/a and a halfway decent parametric, I'm thinking about just using the Sony XEC-1000 and bridging the Boston GT40 to the fronts and bridging the Memphis PR50.4 to the rear and using one of my JBL 504ez on the widebands in the dash. I've been uncluck'n the PO install for a while now.... Replacing all the CCA with 1/0 Welding Cable and adding a run from the second battery + Big 5(It's a diesel) or the rotten CCA speaker wire he used with KnuKoncepts Twisted biwire(HUGE) or tinned OFC from T-Spec for the single runs.
  2. Correct....but if I only feed left inputs on the front and right inputs on the rear from the processor it will be stereo no?
  3. Was doing some thinking about this and was curious if you were using an active crossover (Sony XEC1000, Clarion, or any number of other similar models) or a DSP between the source and amplifier.... Would bridging the amp still present a mono signal to the driver's? You are breaking the signal up at processor anyway....so the amp will only be playing what it's recieving right? Or am I missing something?
  4. Unfortunately my friend, Dodge is known for using thinner awg but thicker less flexible individual strands in their harnesses..... The open/close cycle of normal use tends to make them break in the boot..... Pretty soon this window or that one won't roll down and you'll be chasing down the door harness trying to figure out the issue.
  5. It's a gooseneck trailer pulled by a truck so short of running 30' of cables to the battery that's not really feasible...... Yea I'm familiar with Lipo batteries and thier health (for the most part....I haven't ventured into the yinglong packs yet) my reasoning for using two lipo motorcycle batteries was I could use them in my own bike with audio the rest of the year. Runtime is only about 1.5 -2 hours max. Problem with the generator is noise floor(most are in the high 80db level) and carbon monoxide of the slow moving parade.... The DJ equipment would be much easier (as I already have everything) but it's much larger and cumbersome (at least what I already have) and I'd still have to power it. A folded horn my work they can just be so dadgum shrill..... Having the FT1s was really the only reason I was going to use them.
  6. I'm in South West Louisiana and realized yesterday at our Mardi Gras parade that my little ION speaker isn't going to cut it.... So I had an idea to build a Chuchero style system but using properly ported/sealed enclosures for the drivers and a DSP to tune. I've got some ideas for the mids and highs to stay budget friendly (I already have half of it) but getting some lows out of a system like this is my concern.... Obviously it's not going to be hair trick bass....but some authority would be nice. Currently already have a marine gauge hole receiver with 4V preouts and Bluetooth/Aux input and pairs of 4ohm Crescendo PWX 6.5 and FT1s to cover mids/highs with a JBL BR-A 400.4 and Banda Black 400.4. May add a Stevens MB8 or similar pa 8" with some midbass. Was thinking something like a pair of JBL madador max 15" for lows. Decent sensitivity 90db and a fairly low FS at 30hz for a pro audio speaker under 160$. On a (250-300$) Banda Beat 3001 2300w at 2ohm at 12.6V and 2900w at 2ohm at 14.4V. Using the available specs recommend by JBL it looks like a 2.3CuFt(65L) something like 20x20x15" enclosure with a dual 3" Port(7.5CM) at 7.6" long(19.5CM) should yield a tunning frequency of 40.5hz? That sound about right?? I would definitely be open to other suggestions but please keep in mind the budget as I would be donating this to the Non profit for thier parade float. May try the Dayton DSP or pick up another JBL DSP4086 as I'm already familiar with it's interface and it being an amp also would free up some power for the mids. Other questions: PWX6.5 TS parameters to get a box size likely ported. My goal is to have a easily mountable 40x20x15" Chuchero box for the left and right side of the parade float and a small box for the HU and Processor and amps. I'm thinking a couple of motorcycle Lipo batteries wired in parallel should do the trick for a couple of hours of play time. What do y'all think?
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