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Everything posted by CFD

  1. Port noise out the trunk I think is less of an issue to begin with IMO and it will be fine. Are you going to be upset if your box makes port noise a bit at absolute full tilt and only at the port tuning frequency?
  2. Homie start with the basics before you go crazy unless you've tried the basics already. Did you make sure to tell your BIOS to use the graphics card? Instead of your CPU built in GFX? Should check, see if it's "Onboard" or "AUTO" or something like that, and yeah do all the updates that you can. This would definitely be the issue if your onboard graphics works while the GPU won't. You can't really use both at once. That stuff should work together I think, I don't see why it wouldn't. Also check if your BIOS has anything like "above 4g decoding" and "resizeable BAR" and see if changing those settings will help you. I had to go through that process with a card that had, I think, 12GB of RAM. If none of these things work then I'd probably start making sure everything is plugged in and powered correctly or something. Have you or anyone else changed anything in the BIOS/UEFI?
  3. I made a wicked loud T-line for a single 12" so I don't know, do you. It was really big, though.
  4. okey but remote viewing into some random person's computer is so completely sketch lol
  5. If your head unit EQ only effects door speakers and not RCA output then yeah. Buy yourself a scope though, if you're that concerned. They are really inexpensive now and there are plenty that are plenty good under $100. I think there's not really a way to accurately tune with just a volt meter... it won't tell you whether your waves are coming out cleanly. Just my opinion though since I tend to tune by ear and my shit is probably distorting lol
  6. 18" Ported Box Tuned at 22Hz Single 12" Box Tuned at 24Hz Dual 6.5" Box Ported 40Hz I also have an H-Frame for some GRS 12" drivers I want to upload. It works surprisingly well and makes a ton of bass from $30 drivers.
  7. My name? Hugh Mungus
    My toes? Lotta fungus

    Favorite character? Big Chungus

    Really sus? Among us

  8. Winter pisses me off. I just hate it. I can't stay warm outside unless I wear so many layers that it becomes a task to go outside at all. On the bright side, I get to turn all my computers on and do science to heat my room with BOINC, and Monero mining.
  9. I've got to build the pictured box before I decide what to do with the design. It's for GRS 12sw-4 drivers isobaric. The baffle is meant to hold the two drivers and then be bolted into the enclosure. Two ports on each side of the driver. It's supposed to be sort of a horn as well for projecting sound out doors. I definitely have not modeled it in Hornresp or anything else besides WinISD and I don't know how to. The 12sw-4, I think, has the same motor/magnet as the 10sw-4 yet more cone area so it sort of sucks because it still needs an uber huge enclosure to hit those very low notes. This box is tuned to 23Hz and 4 cubes volume. Here's a design I released. It's for two 12" drivers ~2.5 cubes ~33Hz tuning.
  10. I understand that thing better now. I see what it does. Just seemed like some scam nonsense when I first looked into it. Also, it just didn't seem to do anything in this guy's set up. His install had some little problems that made it confusing. First off was that his head unit was set to high pass the subs at like 80Hz and it took me a minute to figure that out. Then, plainly, I had no idea what the Epicenter was or what it was doing
  11. Made this box design up today for a couple of the 10SW-4 subwoofers after seeing Toid's video of these drivers. Made for isobaric loading. Has a horn situation on it. 2.84 cubes and 25.7Hz tuning before the basket displacement. F3 around 21Hz.
  12. Simple Transmission Line For Lower Power 12 Inch Subwoofers
  13. Box Design for 2 Sundown ZV5 18's 14.25 cubes after displacement and 29-30Hz tuning 48Wx28Dx24H inch external dimensions.
  14. We got the Epicenter figured out and I learned more about it. It actually works for what it's for, just hard to get a bearing on exactly what it does which is annoying for me. Oh well. Two more boxes for your bass wumpers to burr some womps or something. Single 18" 7 cubes, 34Hz. Fits in older Ford Explorers. The early 2000's ones. https://youtu.be/DXxOXha7Hgc Quad Kicker 12" box... or any other 12" subs that it's right for. 9.95 cu. ft. 33Hz. Fits older Escalade. https://youtu.be/o88oK5NN7Tk My GW-124 in my truck and yes it is extremely sloppy, no I do not care. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4edvSXAU9Y
  15. Also I just want to make a little note that, for my area, I seem to be better than other installers/builders simply for not being a scammer. The last guy that came through for that box had someone else helping him out before and they kind of seemed to take advantage of him. He had 4 of those Boss Phantom 1150 Watt subs not knowing they weren't rated accurately, same with his Hifonics amp. Who ever set up his radio also had a high pass set to like 80 Hz on his subwoofer out which I couldn't figure out for a little while since I wasn't familiar with the radio. Then he also had one of those "Epicenter" audio filter things on it which I really couldn't figure out what it did and seemed like a gimmick. Ended up bypassing it while trying to figure things out and it seemed better without it. Then, after all of that, he had prefab boxes made from 5/8 MDF that were too small for the subwoofers he was originally intending on using. He had me build the box for Kicker CVX 12's, then he came back and said that two were on back order so he had me put in the Boss subs for the time being. Kinda hate those subs for existing since he could have gotten way better subs for the $81 they cost like some Skars or the GW-124 at Wal-Mart that I use. The Duals and Jensens there probably take a comparable amount of power as the Boss subs. It was getting down with them after messing around for quite a while though. I really don't know who hooked him up before. Wiring was nice, but everything seemed to be set really weird and nobody told him his amp and the Boss subs don't do rated. I looked into what that "Epicenter" thing is and I don't think it should be in anyone's set up. I don't know what the hell it does and their description on their website made it sound like a huge gimmick. I'll post a screen cap of it.
  16. I'll have some videos on that box again inside a vehicle later. It was working pretty well IMO, and it's a neat box. More of an experiment than anything. I did hook it up to the same amp I had in the basement briefly inside of my truck then the amp blew out a couple of mosfets so I ordered new mosfets. I had the gain cranked to 100% without noticing, and it's only 4 ohm stable so. lol. It blowed up. Maybe that amp will be working in the future, either that or I'll get my JL amp fixed. Today I put a couple chinese chip amps in my truck for a pair of 6.5 woofers and 5 1/4 coaxials and finished welding up the mount for the big stupid big port box. I'm aware that different woods have different acoustic effects concerning dampening. I watched this video recently and I also watched that Hexibase video you're talking about. That dude has a lot of cool videos on his channel. In this video he says that he built his so-called "World's Second Best Speakers" enclosure from the cheapest plywood AKA the same stuff I used here. I think it's not so bad. This dude also blasts MDF as a "superior" box material too which I found funny. I'm not sure if I argued that the port area negated the effect of wrapping my port all the way around. That was a mistake I guess since I mostly just wanted to try out making a box with a really big port nearly the same area as the cone. What I was trying to convey was that with the size of the port and that I tuned it low at 26Hz it ended up being substantially different than how I expected and then I had to think about that particularly since I put the port right up to the baffle. The port is long enough and big enough that it could be a 42 or 43Hz 1/4 wave if there was no chamber... but there's a big chamber. Some way or another, I've ended up with a box that seems to be tuned lower than I expected and also plays lower than I expected. I can play under 10Hz with this thing while still making enough pressure to feel it quite a lot in the floor on the next level up, rattle windows, etc. The point of that box wasn't exactly to make a box that was within the spec of the woofer, or that was perfectly within the "rules" of box building. I built it simply with the goal of getting extremely low, experimenting with a larger than normal/"appropriate" size port. It was somewhat inspired by Dayton Audio's Ultimax 12 recommended box which is 4 cubic feet tuned at 20Hz. Also inspired by their Ultimax 18 inch woofer which has recommended boxes ranging from 4 cubes to like 15 cubes I think so I figured it was worse a shot Anyway, thanks for the comments. Just got a new job so I'm going to keep building halfway sensical nonsense.
  17. 9.95 cu. ft. box for four 12 inch kickers tuned to 33Hz. Not sure what the basket displacement but guessing about 9.5 cu. ft. and 34 ish Hz tuning after displacement. The guy has his speakers in a 1.6 cu. ft./sub (before desplacement) 33Hz tuned prefab that I really don't like... this should get him going
  18. Welp, the box I just made certainly works. Not really sure why you guys are so mad about all of this. There were free designs in this thread, I plan on posting more up on my YouTube channel, and the ones I've made and sold have all worked fine. I don't have anyone complaining back to me about my designs. I definitely never said they were absolutely perfect, and I also never said anyone on this forum had to pay me for the design. If the S10 dude wanted a design from me, I'd just give it to him, but I'd also put it on eBay. I don't see how there's a problem with getting something for my work. I also don't see exactly why you are THIS critical. Why is it you didn't say anything about the port before I built the box? Should I have wrapped it back in so the internal opening of the port is behind the subwoofer? Should I really care about having too many port corners? Why? I doubt it's restrictive at all. It's a 100 sq. inch port on a 12". I also see people do transmission lines with way more corners. Should I really be concerned? The box turned out well, IMO, and everywhere else I've posted it people are very positive about it. The guy I sold cut sheets to came to me for them and didn't ask for more. I also gave him a video on how to assemble it. He built it and told me it does what he wanted, he's happy. The designs I sell on eBay have written instructions, video, cut sheets, and the CAD files for $5. That's not bad, and the people buying them can always decide whether they want it or not. I'm not forcing anyone to do anything. So, anyway, more box designs on the way. Despite your criticism, the boxes I've built still work, make the bass I was looking for, and for sure are not perfect. I know. Y'all want to be salty, be salty I guess!
  19. Big stupid big giant big old big box for a single 12 is pretty much complete
  20. The big stupid 12" box now with actual corners, port width corrected, less retardedness, and more brace. Actually going to build this one out of some nice oak I just picked up (and made my back sore with) and see how it womps.
  21. Yeahp. I messed that up for a long time and was left scratching my head on why my subs didn't sound exactly as expected. Figured it out recently and un-dumbassed myself. I designed a box for a guy for $10 but that was just cut sheets for the box. I would design it and put it on ebay.
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