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selfmotivated24

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  1. Thx, I found them a couple of months back. This is what I bought/use.. (keep in mind, it is important to use only plastic/nylon nuts, nothing conductive) Small Parts-B00A6YX3XG Nylon 6/6 Acorn Nut, USA Made, Black, 5/16"-18 Thread Size, 1/2" Width Across Flats, 17/32" Height, 23/64" Minimum Thread Depth (Pack of 50) by Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6YX3XG/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_WCHQNFZA7H643ADVC307?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  2. no help received, therefore, for others considering the same, I'm gonna go with either CES 80 ah LTO or XS Power's (and DroppinHertz) new 80 ah LTO, both use Yinlongs and can be charged at 15.5v.. and I may add in a XS Power Titan8+ BCI Direct Fit Lithium 6500 battery for under the hood, but have been holding off on purchasing because I have been patiently waiting for the release of the newest version which comes with Bluetooth Battery Management!! Expected release is Q1 2021. Be aware, the XS Power/DroppinHertz 80 ah only accepts 1/0 XL wire, not 2/0 wires (but does include a built-in me
  3. For current builds: Imo a fuse bock ought to be used instead of a distribution block where the deleted batt is. (I don't care what others have done, doesn't mean it's right. E.g. smoking ciggs). This way there will be a group of fuses on both ends of the long power wire run. This is why is it suggested to fuse the alt power wires when there is a front battery.. protecting the alt from burning up imo. Can't hurt as long as I use fuses slightly larger than the peak amperage my 8Ks will ever draw at any point. And for any build needing more than one alt power wire, then it's smarter to not rely s
  4. For current builds: Imo a fuse bock ought to be used instead of a distribution block where the deleted batt is. (I don't care what others have done, doesn't mean it's right. E.g. smoking ciggs). This way there will be a group of fuses on both ends of the long power wire run. This is why is it suggested to fuse the alt power wires when there is a front battery.. protecting the alt from burning up imo. Can't hurt as long as I use fuses slightly larger than the peak amperage my 8Ks will ever draw at any point.
  5. My 20kw build really could use a GORILLA series Limitless Lithium battery since my build charges up to 16V (Not a 16V set-up but it charges up to 16V whereas a 16V set-up charges up to something like 17.2V) I cannot find the Gorilla series lithium batteries anywhere. So if you know of where I can buy one, I'll pay you a Finder's Fee upon receiving a fully functional one. (G30 or G50, not the G10) Thanks. Feel free to email me at [email protected]
  6. I agree with the original statement, something about why the [big/pro manufacturers like SunDown, Deaf Bonce, Fi, PSI, Crossfire, DC, etc] don't use average clamp numbers as their rated power for pairing amps with subs. My Taramps Bass 8K 1-ohm @ 1-ohm clamps 4K, 50% of it's rated power. Typical is somewhere around 40% of rated power. However, I have my amp to output only 5K and yet clamps 4K (actually just shy of 4K, like 100 watts shy) I used -5dB tone of it's peak freq of 43 Hz. One D2 DVC sub 5K RMS. My amp is set to put out 100V which equals 5K at volume notch 3 (3 out of 8 notches becaus
  7. -Where to buy extra "acorn nuts" for SMD Fuse Blocks?? (without having to buy additional products such as plexiglass cover) -And what is the thread size of SMD fuse blocks? 1/4"-20?? (So I can see about locating 1/2" wide hex head acorn nuts that will fit those threads. WHY? Because I own 3 SMD fuse blocks and counting (2 quads, 1 dual) but am down to 6 acorn nuts.. =/ meaning I have lost 6 therefore only have 2 nuts per fuse block. Not that anything is wrong with only having 2 nuts. ;-]
  8. Where to buy more replacement acorn nuts for SMD fuse blocks? (Without having to purchase additional items)
  9. I'm currently on my fourth build of the year (because I can't get enough bass!)

    In 2020 I went from.. (I enjoy the planning and building more than the listening)

    -1 Kicker 12" Solo Baric L7S on 1K

    -2 Kicker 12" L7S on 2K

    -2 Skar VXF 15" on 5K

    -1 Skar DNR 15" on 8K, 390 amp JS alt, 2/0 Certified Basshead OFC, LC7i, D3400 battery.

    CURRENT BUILD:

    -2 Team Fi 15" on 16K w/ 10K clamp goal (Fi subs take approx 8 weeks to be hand-built) https://ficaraudio.com/product/team-4-series/

    390 amp JS alternator (stock was 150a),

    dual runs of 2/0 SHCA OFC (which is more like 4/0!),

    "Big 4" upgrade,

    2 x Taramps Bass 8Ks, 

    AudioControl LC7i LOC w/ AccuBass, 

    XS Power SB1500-75 (1500 farad good for 12K),

    XS Power D3400 (AGM good for 4K) under-the-hood which will be replacing with XS Power Lithium Titan8+ PWR S6 Direct BCI Fit 6500 w/ integrated Bluetooth Battery Management,

    stock 8" touchscreen "Sync" headunit,

    Skar 400.4,

    4 x Skar 5.25" in doors which I'm upgrading to Deaf Bonce, 

     

    Photos are in order of first to most recent (smallest to biggest)

    20200214_213937.jpg

    20200408_202802.jpg

    20200524_212933.jpg

    20200720_215912.jpg

    20200907_023613.jpg

    20200920_165901.jpg

    image 1.jpg

    image.jpg

    20201117_212259~2.jpg

  10. I greatly appreciate it, I did find it does allow me to use a socket on the backside to hold the head of the stud (or stud's feet depending on perspective) so I can get by. I shared a video slooowly explaining the issue (6 mins) of the ANL fuses not fitting if interested in seeing it rather than just reading about it. I suggest watching it using 1.25x speed, haha, it was recorded at the end of a very long day. I'm good at finding workarounds so thanks again for your assistance, I'm good, just need to reach out to SMD and explain these two issues and see what they say because something is not r
  11. BTW, I made a video regarding the ANL fuses not fitting and showing my work around. I uploaded it to YouTube to be able to share it with whomever may be interested in investigating.
  12. I installed it without taking a photo and have dreaded disconnecting the wires in order to unscrew it from my enclosure but I did it (outside in 30 degree weather) just to share the photo with you of what I've been left with after one of the round glass things that are on the backside broke into a hundred pieces (not the plexiglass cover). I removed the stud after it broke to ensure I don't try using the useless stud (and have it never tighten by it continuously spinning). Thanks.
  13. Sorry for any confusion, I edited my post to clear it up because when I refer to nuts spinning, I'm referring to the nuts on the backside of the fuse block, the nuts that are encased in glass. Not referring to the plexiglass cover or acorn nuts. Thanks for trying to help.
  14. In simple terms, typical ANL fuses do NOT properly fit in between SHCA 2/0 Tinned Copper Lugs end-to-end (same run, I'm not referring to side-by-side, or anything about acorn nuts)
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