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Everything posted by liteblue

  1. If you want to add something to the conversation cool. But let's not thread jack by just saying I'm stupid. You seem to call people stupid alot but you didn't add anything helpful. Sigh I'm sorry you get triggered it was not my intent =/. Me like most people here are trying to learn and share experiences. Sorry. This will be my last post for enclosures. Let's try to be adults. Also there is where I pulled the .3 and .4 recommend specs.
  2. In a 4th order the sealed section acts like a high-pass filter, and the ported section acts like a low pass filter. Before you start building the box, I highly recommend building out exactly where all your other equipment is going to be first. I built the BIGGEST box I could squeeze in and now servicing, upgrading and tuning are a pain. Also a band-pass enclosure could give you more output but more limited band width than a ported enclosure. Do you know what the external dimension of the enclosure will be? That will decide what kind of ratio you can accomplish. Have you
  3. I hear you man, then probably best to wait it out and just pull door panels once. Less chance of breaking clips. Double check that you won't essential disable the factory tweeters by running your own speaker wire to the doors. I know in my Chevy the tweeters are wired into the loom someplace and not just in parallel at the door speaker. I would have to run a second wire from the door to the dash if I were to not use factory wiring. Much less work using the 9 conductor. It is a bit more expensive than just 100 foot of speaker wire but you save loads of time. Just a thought.
  4. Do you plan on running new wire to the doors? At 75 watts rms you can still use speed wire/ 9 conductor wire and not replace the factory wiring. Hook them up now and hook up and amp later. Then you can do a before and after comparison.
  5. Figured it's better than no help......
  6. Hey Jimbo, If you post detailed specs I can plug it into bass box pro and see if anything stands out? I'm by no means a professional enclosure designer but am willing to try.
  7. I use Gyeon and love it! When I was a professional detailer it's what our shop sold and what I was trained to use. The "Mohs" is a legit ceramic coating. I do not suggest this for a daily driver. Going down the stack they have "Can Coat" lasts over a year with the right soap. And the easiest to use is "Wet Coat" spray on pressure wash off, protected. Normal hose isn't strong enough to mix it up and wash off excess. Still lasts 6 months with the right soap. Can coat is what I recommend to enthusiasts who want to try ceramic coatings. It's forg
  8. Hard to say which will be louder. Two subs will most likely be more windy. Two subs will dissipate heat better. The 18 has potentially more cone area, but two 12 is twice piston movement or stoke. If it's a sedan two 12s. That's my two cents. OHH! call sundown or a local dealer the xv3 are being built and shipped if you ask.
  9. The 390 alt can produce over 5000 watts. BUT I still suggest atleast 2/0 for big 3, two 1/0 is better than one 2/0. And you should still do more than 1 run of 1/0 if you stick with the 300+ amp alternator. Just one pipe between two batteries and 390 amps of charge will be a bottle neck.
  10. There is nothing "simple" about a 4th order enclosure. If it was easy everyone would do it. https://audiojudgement.com/4th-order-bandpass-design/ This is a write up with positive feedback. If your serious about building a 4th order read up and follow along. Takes notes there is a good amount of math. My suggestion is go with simple ported box. Less tinkering, less math.
  11. Two runs of 1/0 minimum. What vehicle is this going into? About how long will your wire runs be? You will need more 1/0 than the one kit. Plus you have to do big three upgrades. Even two runs from the alternator would not be overkill for a 390 alt. Also if you are only using one battery then you will be pushing all that current down one pipe. Buy an additional nvx 25 foot roll, don't forget ring terminals and second fuse holder, cheaper than buying 4/0 and all the fixings, ie fuse holders, rca cables, remote wire, ring terminals etc. Consider adding 2/0 for
  12. Then go subbox pro. It's a website with basic box and port tuning. It even does a blueprint. Do you know what specs the manufacturer recommends?
  13. Car audio fabrication does box design but it starts at 90 dollars and quote 10 day turnaround. Plus I'm not sure if he does a cut sheet or just dimensions of box panels.
  14. 4th order you are fighting box rise, I think you would be better with two .5 ohm. What does your ohm rise to? Burps might be louder with the four 8 kwatt but music might be the same if not less . How stout is your electrical? Another 8 kwatts is going could be a strain.
  15. Short answer of will 130 amp work...maybe. Here is how I approach it. 3000 watts / 80 percent efficient gives you 3750 watts input to make 3000 watts out. Alternators make on the low end 13.8 volts. 3750 / 13.8 gives us ~272 amp draw. You vehicle comes with 80 amp and mostlikely needs ATLEAST half or 40 amps. Your new alternator is 130 amps - 40 gives you 90 amps POTENTIALLY for system use. 272 - 90 leaves us at ~182 amps required. So you should try for 182 amp hour in agm to keep up 13.8 volts for some jam sessions. You won't be able to demo al
  16. If you download the manual on deaf bonce site it has some specs for an enclosure. If you are trying to see what size will fit, spend a few dollars on poater board and mock up the dimensions. Tldr 1.94 cubes 31 Sq inch of port 35 hz tune
  17. Pre-registered the other day and snatched up a cheap airbnb. Who else is going?
  18. Not without rebuilding the woofer with a 2 ohm voice coil. Which would defeat the good deal you got. What amplifier you plan on pushing it with? I would still hook it up! You could be pleasantly surprised.
  19. It looks like single voice coil. Hook up a dmm set to ohms that will tell you if it is 2 ohms. I suspect it is 4 ohms.
  20. Found this great video the other day and was surprised . I was under the impression that unibodies are not great for grounds but that is not the case. It also does a fantastic job of demonstrating how to test voltage drop.
  21. Damn that sub is a beast! Big ratio box will give you more output and bandwidth. If you have the room go largest ratio possible like 1:4 and you can always dial it down. Much harder to make the box bigger.
  22. Looks like a beautiful enclosure! Keep it simple. Common chamber gives you only one port to tune. With that massive center port supporting the top I would brace laterally from port walls to the side walls. You can probly getaway with thinner baffle like 2.25 and gain some net volume. I would also want to experiment with all those 45s. I would start with just the vertical ones closest to the port and add from there. Easier to glue and screw then to pry out after they are in. For the amplifer volume issue you might need an rca distro block.
  23. Car audio fabrication .com offers custom box designs if you don't mind building yourself. Or with a good design you can ask a local cabinet shop or Amish builders to knock it out for you. I know it's not what your are asking for but I see many of these posts go unanswered.
  24. Sfb makes more power from the dyno runs I have seen. But the tar amps is cheaper so they are different. If you have a hard budget go taramps. Bare minimum upgrade is replacing the underhood battery. As for an alternator what vehicle are we talking bout? A few brands would be mechman, js alternator, gp alternator, singer and iraggi. I'm sure there are more but these are the first that come to mind. Like 1.21jigawatts says, without an upgraded alternator you won't see maximum power from the amp BUT that does not mean it won't be loud or sound good. Both of t
  25. Sfb 3000 did more power on the dyno vs taramps. But both amps are beast's dollar to watt. Get which ever you can get cheaper. Unless you plan on going below 1 ohm but half bridge amp with the same power can be double the price. Get two new batteries. A xs power D series under the hood and the largest XP series you can afford for the trunk. There are other great brands I only have experience with xs power. Atleast replace factory battery before secondary if it is not agm and more then 5 years old. 3 years if you live some place with harsh winter or extreme heat.
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