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liteblue

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About liteblue

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    120db

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    Bass

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  1. If you download the manual on deaf bonce site it has some specs for an enclosure. If you are trying to see what size will fit, spend a few dollars on poater board and mock up the dimensions. Tldr 1.94 cubes 31 Sq inch of port 35 hz tune
  2. Pre-registered the other day and snatched up a cheap airbnb. Who else is going?
  3. Not without rebuilding the woofer with a 2 ohm voice coil. Which would defeat the good deal you got. What amplifier you plan on pushing it with? I would still hook it up! You could be pleasantly surprised.
  4. It looks like single voice coil. Hook up a dmm set to ohms that will tell you if it is 2 ohms. I suspect it is 4 ohms.
  5. Found this great video the other day and was surprised . I was under the impression that unibodies are not great for grounds but that is not the case. It also does a fantastic job of demonstrating how to test voltage drop.
  6. Damn that sub is a beast! Big ratio box will give you more output and bandwidth. If you have the room go largest ratio possible like 1:4 and you can always dial it down. Much harder to make the box bigger.
  7. Looks like a beautiful enclosure! Keep it simple. Common chamber gives you only one port to tune. With that massive center port supporting the top I would brace laterally from port walls to the side walls. You can probly getaway with thinner baffle like 2.25 and gain some net volume. I would also want to experiment with all those 45s. I would start with just the vertical ones closest to the port and add from there. Easier to glue and screw then to pry out after they are in. For the amplifer volume issue you might need an rca distro block.
  8. Car audio fabrication .com offers custom box designs if you don't mind building yourself. Or with a good design you can ask a local cabinet shop or Amish builders to knock it out for you. I know it's not what your are asking for but I see many of these posts go unanswered.
  9. Sfb makes more power from the dyno runs I have seen. But the tar amps is cheaper so they are different. If you have a hard budget go taramps. Bare minimum upgrade is replacing the underhood battery. As for an alternator what vehicle are we talking bout? A few brands would be mechman, js alternator, gp alternator, singer and iraggi. I'm sure there are more but these are the first that come to mind. Like 1.21jigawatts says, without an upgraded alternator you won't see maximum power from the amp BUT that does not mean it won't be loud or sound good. Both of t
  10. Sfb 3000 did more power on the dyno vs taramps. But both amps are beast's dollar to watt. Get which ever you can get cheaper. Unless you plan on going below 1 ohm but half bridge amp with the same power can be double the price. Get two new batteries. A xs power D series under the hood and the largest XP series you can afford for the trunk. There are other great brands I only have experience with xs power. Atleast replace factory battery before secondary if it is not agm and more then 5 years old. 3 years if you live some place with harsh winter or extreme heat.
  11. It depends. No it should not blow. Tweeters are tough. What is important is they should be 4 ohm and in parallel with the coax the amplifier will see a 2 ohm load. I don't underatand the sensitivity rating. P sure that's 1 w at 1 meter. Some crossovers have -2, 0 and +2 db. Cheers
  12. Sounds like ground loop making the hum. It's intermittent due to change in atmospheric conditions. The loud pop is the soft turn on/off circuit died or equipment not turning off in the right order. Audio control has an article about the turn off pop. They suggest changing ground and or adding a small capacitor to the remote turn on to the amp so it turns off after the other equipment.
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