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liteblue

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About liteblue

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    Bass

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  1. "1/3 gain" is kind of ambiguous. "Big battery" is a little ambiguous. Do you mean you are tuned to 1/3 of 7000 watts rms? Are you giving that poor stock alternator more than idle rpm's? 12.4 volts is low even for "a split second." Are you clipping to music or with test tones? Did you set gains with any overlap? Have you clamped power out at speaker terminals? Are you using bass boost/loudness on the head unit and the amplifier? Is the Level Input set to low? 40 hz low pass is low. Maybe open that up a little bit to say 60 - 80 hz? If you are using a 30 - 45 hz bass boos
  2. Totally replace the front battery. Not sure about which alternator to get. I do not own a civic and have not really done any research on the subject. Largest one you can afford. there are a few company that make "custom" bolt on options. If moneys not an issue buy a big Mechman and make a bracket to mount it.
  3. You will most likely want to buy an over built Korean style half bridge. Or two. Do you plan to use the same box just wire down? If it is an efficient, low rise, box then I suggest two amps. You could try just one amp. Its a crap shoot of which amplifier will work below 1 ohm. The real question is how long will it work. It could work just fine for one amp and not at all for the next do to variance in production runs. The only amplifiers I know of that advertise below 1 ohm stable are the JP 23, and the Taramps md 12000.1. The jp requires an extra warranty for below 1 o
  4. 4 years is not bad but not great. Was there a system in the car before this one? Is the weather where you live get extreme hot or cold? all these things factor into the life of a battery. That battery looks small and not very capable, 420(nice) cca is low. Replacing it is not a bad idea. The high wattage of your system, and lack of alternator power, it will be taxing on any batteries. 70 amp alternator is basically a trickle charger for 3000 watts. Next two things to invest in: High output alternator, New front battery. Parallel the batteries directly to each other and then wire th
  5. I would also double check and measure both wire individually. Make sure that both are showing 45 amps. Also, just a suggestion, if you have enough cable. Parallel the batteries directly to each other instead of at the Amplifier. If the batteries were the same size it would be cool but because they are different and you are connected directly to the terminals on the front battery you could be draining the crap out of that one and the rear battery has to fill the front battery to even everything out. Is that the original Honda battery? or is it less than a few years old?
  6. were you clamping BOTH +12volt power wires? or 90 amps on ONE +12volt Have you measure clamped power out of the speaker terminals and then measured resistance of the sub during a burp? might just have crazy box rise.
  7. what kind of battery voltage was the 90 amp reading? what kind of battery voltage when the amplifier is clipping? was the 90 amp on both 1/0 wires or just one? if just one then you saw 180 amps and probably rated power with box rise. Was this 90 amps on music or with test tones? sorry about all the questions.
  8. you did not list what you have your sub wired to If the sub woofer is wired to 4 ohms then you are getting max power out the amplifier, 900 watts rms at 4 ohm. wire down to 1 ohm. edit: love the remote turn on is away from the power by the speaker terminals. really nice touch.
  9. Ky, I absolutely want to do a second run from front battery to rear. During tests the system was pulling over 200 amps on the one run. Which is totally cool for now but if I want to get to 8000 watts I will need more. My thinking is if I am going to see 200+ amps from the alternator and 200+ amps from the battery two runs of 1/0 would be better. 1point, definitely need more battery power. I am saving up for more batteries. Redesigning my box and trunk plans to accommodate more space. Originally I wanted to put batteries in the spare tire well, but there is not enough room. somethin
  10. I have the SFB 8000 and the lack of documentation is a frustrating. As for fuse rating you figure that with math. RMS power divided by 13.8 volts gives you amperage required. Divide that number by .7 for efficiency. That gives you a realist idea of what current the amplifier will need to give you RMS wattage. OR you put in the largest fuse for rated amperage of the wire you are using, ie 125 amp 4 awg, 325 amp 1/0 awg.
  11. One run of 1/0 gauge for +12v and Ground. and a 1/0 gauge chassis ground. no kind of management from the terminals of the front battery to the rear batteries.
  12. yes kyblack, not close... yet. Ran into my first issue. Back two batteries are reading a lower voltage than the front battery when the car is running. On vehicle start up both front and rear read the same voltage. Rise up to about 15v, then drop down to 14.3/4 after a few seconds. But after playing some bass the rear bank dips and never really goes back up. Thankfully it has occurred while testing and never let it dip below 12.4. Even when the rear batteries read 12 volt the front is still reading 14.3/4. Voltage stops dropping when i stop playing music and Does not go back up unti
  13. yes. Bad grounds would not help any. Definitely not a short somewhere lolol. You do not have enough electrical for 4000 watts rms. You only have "one battery", and only one 240 amp alt. You listed the CCA but not the AH, Amp hours are much more important when looking at car audio applications. The alternator puts out 13.8 x 240 which is ~3300 watts. Your vehicle needs some of that power to function, lets say 40 amps, leaving you only have 200 amp available for accessories. 13.8 x 200 =2760 watts. An alternator cannot supply this much power all the time. It will get hot,
  14. How is it showing distortion? While playing music? Are you playing test tones with apple music? If you are testing with a 0 db test tone but the amifer is tuned with 10 db overlap the 0 db tone will clip. How did you set gains with the dd 1? Cd test tones? Try downloading and playing them with apple music.Tune amplifiers with dd 1 that way Is my suggesting. Is there any kind of volume offset between the different inputs, apple music and how you set gains originally?
  15. Did some testing yesterday and re tuned. 4000 watt rms with a dmm ~ 63 volt. It is much louder than what ever i had it set at before. Voltage drops into the 12's. think i saw 12.4 during a song and it took maybe a minute for voltage to climb back to 14.4. I was not able to get a solid clamp number, not sure if my batteries were dying on the ammeter or what but i will attempt again next day off. Dizzle. So far i am really enjoying it. Low pass goes down to 80 hz. Makes setting crossovers simple (all the way down). I don't plan on going below 1 ohm nominal so
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