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liteblue

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liteblue last won the day on April 16

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  1. If you want to add something to the conversation cool. But let's not thread jack by just saying I'm stupid. You seem to call people stupid alot but you didn't add anything helpful. Sigh I'm sorry you get triggered it was not my intent =/. Me like most people here are trying to learn and share experiences. Sorry. This will be my last post for enclosures. Let's try to be adults. Also there is where I pulled the .3 and .4 recommend specs.
  2. In a 4th order the sealed section acts like a high-pass filter, and the ported section acts like a low pass filter. Before you start building the box, I highly recommend building out exactly where all your other equipment is going to be first. I built the BIGGEST box I could squeeze in and now servicing, upgrading and tuning are a pain. Also a band-pass enclosure could give you more output but more limited band width than a ported enclosure. Do you know what the external dimension of the enclosure will be? That will decide what kind of ratio you can accomplish. Have you tried reaching out to American Bass? All companies want their customers to have a good experience not only buying but also using the equipment. I imagine their support techs have a good idea of what enclosure specs would be best for the woofer both musical or max output. You might be better off with a 6th order or a traditional ported enclosure. The qts of this woofer is above .4 and a 4th order is recommend closer to .3
  3. I hear you man, then probably best to wait it out and just pull door panels once. Less chance of breaking clips. Double check that you won't essential disable the factory tweeters by running your own speaker wire to the doors. I know in my Chevy the tweeters are wired into the loom someplace and not just in parallel at the door speaker. I would have to run a second wire from the door to the dash if I were to not use factory wiring. Much less work using the 9 conductor. It is a bit more expensive than just 100 foot of speaker wire but you save loads of time. Just a thought.
  4. Do you plan on running new wire to the doors? At 75 watts rms you can still use speed wire/ 9 conductor wire and not replace the factory wiring. Hook them up now and hook up and amp later. Then you can do a before and after comparison.
  5. Figured it's better than no help......
  6. Hey Jimbo, If you post detailed specs I can plug it into bass box pro and see if anything stands out? I'm by no means a professional enclosure designer but am willing to try.
  7. I use Gyeon and love it! When I was a professional detailer it's what our shop sold and what I was trained to use. The "Mohs" is a legit ceramic coating. I do not suggest this for a daily driver. Going down the stack they have "Can Coat" lasts over a year with the right soap. And the easiest to use is "Wet Coat" spray on pressure wash off, protected. Normal hose isn't strong enough to mix it up and wash off excess. Still lasts 6 months with the right soap. Can coat is what I recommend to enthusiasts who want to try ceramic coatings. It's forgiving ie high spots wash off...eventually. Mohs should be left to professional with UV cure lights and what not. Gyeon- pronounced G-ON
  8. Hard to say which will be louder. Two subs will most likely be more windy. Two subs will dissipate heat better. The 18 has potentially more cone area, but two 12 is twice piston movement or stoke. If it's a sedan two 12s. That's my two cents. OHH! call sundown or a local dealer the xv3 are being built and shipped if you ask.
  9. The 390 alt can produce over 5000 watts. BUT I still suggest atleast 2/0 for big 3, two 1/0 is better than one 2/0. And you should still do more than 1 run of 1/0 if you stick with the 300+ amp alternator. Just one pipe between two batteries and 390 amps of charge will be a bottle neck.
  10. There is nothing "simple" about a 4th order enclosure. If it was easy everyone would do it. https://audiojudgement.com/4th-order-bandpass-design/ This is a write up with positive feedback. If your serious about building a 4th order read up and follow along. Takes notes there is a good amount of math. My suggestion is go with simple ported box. Less tinkering, less math.
  11. Two runs of 1/0 minimum. What vehicle is this going into? About how long will your wire runs be? You will need more 1/0 than the one kit. Plus you have to do big three upgrades. Even two runs from the alternator would not be overkill for a 390 alt. Also if you are only using one battery then you will be pushing all that current down one pipe. Buy an additional nvx 25 foot roll, don't forget ring terminals and second fuse holder, cheaper than buying 4/0 and all the fixings, ie fuse holders, rca cables, remote wire, ring terminals etc. Consider adding 2/0 for big three kit or even a 50 foot roll of 1/0 instead of 25 feet. 8000 watts is nothing to sneeze at. Power in equals power out and at 80 percent efficient it requires 10000 watts input power. Divide by 14.4 volts and you are almost at 700 amps.
  12. Then go subbox pro. It's a website with basic box and port tuning. It even does a blueprint. Do you know what specs the manufacturer recommends?
  13. Car audio fabrication does box design but it starts at 90 dollars and quote 10 day turnaround. Plus I'm not sure if he does a cut sheet or just dimensions of box panels.
  14. 4th order you are fighting box rise, I think you would be better with two .5 ohm. What does your ohm rise to? Burps might be louder with the four 8 kwatt but music might be the same if not less . How stout is your electrical? Another 8 kwatts is going could be a strain.
  15. Short answer of will 130 amp work...maybe. Here is how I approach it. 3000 watts / 80 percent efficient gives you 3750 watts input to make 3000 watts out. Alternators make on the low end 13.8 volts. 3750 / 13.8 gives us ~272 amp draw. You vehicle comes with 80 amp and mostlikely needs ATLEAST half or 40 amps. Your new alternator is 130 amps - 40 gives you 90 amps POTENTIALLY for system use. 272 - 90 leaves us at ~182 amps required. So you should try for 182 amp hour in agm to keep up 13.8 volts for some jam sessions. You won't be able to demo all day but just cruise without destroying the batteries from excessive discharge cycles. Also to note. Amplifers are typically rated at 14.4 volts. So even at 13.8 you will not get the full 3 kwatt. Hope this doesn't confuse.
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