Forevrbumpn

Alright, looks like Iam buying more frames tomorrow

Iam going to build a few using the 2" motors I have, and maybe 1 or 2 more using the last of the 2.5" motors I have left The 2" coil version will be tall surround, and and more excursion, single 2ohm. pretty sexy, with a flat wide motor. But power handling will be about 300w/rms or so But sub may be more, since the motor will be new, and custom ordering the cones, and the coils I specifically designed for those 2" motors

May be gone by tomorrow- cjvue- local, dibs

solid 400rms easy I would say The coil that this sub is from is well in to the 400 - 500rms range, and with the cone, and spider there is a tighter suspension to keep more cone control This is the stiffest 8" I ever built, yet the fs is still in the mid 30s I need to test the T/S on it, but I know the motor force is really high too I will clean up the woofer too, and take better pics, these were a little blurry, and the cone/dome looks dirty, its a really nice clean woofer

Dohh... sorry $75, or $85 shipped lower 48 states

I had some extra glue and parts when I was doing reconing jobs last night, and built up this 8" I have been meaning to assemble. Its a 2.5" coil< Dayton Titanic MK3 motor from the 12"- Still has the copper shorting ring attached to the pole piece. I used a 1.4"ww 4 layer 4ohm coil, and a 6" leaded spider, total yields 13.5mm xmax one way The cone has an attached gasket that locks in to the frame, and the surround is very rigid stiff rubber surround, hard rigid paper cone, with a perfectly fit poly dome I know realistically this woofer would sell for higher, its a one of a kind for now- I can get these cones at anytime Just don't have any on hand $75 picked up or $85 shipped This would make a awesome sub for a transmission line, or home theater subwoofer

I was watching the other Duval vids, they love them pioneer impp and champion subs lol

supposed to have bullet hole stickers, not real bullet holes lol

I complained to these guys, as told to by the dealership http://www.autorepair.ca.gov/ BBB is next I guess

Insurance company is 100% in the loop, they know what is going on, and said they already paid $7000, and its up to me now, not the insurance. They said they did all they could to help- BS The problem is, The first place, Best Offer was referred to me, by my gf's best friend. They did a great job on her car, fast, and courteous, so we went there. It was not on the Insurance companies list. But we had a right to take it anywhere we want. So that is the main reason why insurance stepped back from the issue. no "petrol bombs" lol

umm.. no, not mine haha, sorry, I didn't even know what price range you were looking in The LEDs are comparable to a lot of 55watt halogens though. Those are about $35pr The Blue is VERY blue, like a pair of blue jeans, just basically ultra bright LED blue, then the white is bright crystal white The 35 watt hids are $45 55 watt is $60 the 3 way kit is $129 white vs blue leds inserted in the high beam location

Yeah 9006 is what I ordered most of, also 9005. I have a Denali too, so I bought the most that fit that GM headlight style just so i would have more to test with I have white, and blue 6watt LEDs in 9005 and 9006 I have 6000k and 8000k 9006 and 9005 in 35w and 55watt and I have a 9006 3 color HID kit that fades from 4000k 4800k 5800k with a dash mounted controller, slim ballasts, and they are German- Phillips for that model- That I have in 9005 9006 styles only

to the eye, the lower numbers are more visual- more brighter to the human eyes What bulb numbers do you need? or do you need a whole kit? I have bulbs alone if thats what you need mainly in 5k - 8k Then I have some kits, just the more common styles Besides just doing speakers, I decided to take on lighting as well

Iam just lost. My truck was stolen, and recovered 6 months ago, alot of electrical damage, and other things, body work, interior, etc. My truck has been tossed around like a $2 whore. Best Offer Body Shop in Sacramento might have made some things worse, while they did do a good job at the paint job, they still didn't realign the bumper, and aim the lights correctly, and my interior is now tan, not grey- with Escalade door panels, and center console cover. I brought, and work was approved, for me to take it to Kniesels in Roseville to have the work double checked, and wiring looked at. The truck was sent to the dealer, they said it needed a whole new wire harness, $2000 plus labor. I knew that the very first company that touched it never installed the BCM- They didn't realize it was stolen/missing dumbasses The first shop charged the insurance company about $7000, they did about $2000 worth, just jacked my insurance company. The dealership technicians said the BCM was still in place under the dashboard, but I kept telling them it goes in the center console, not under the dash- They wouldn't listen to me. Insurance wont total out the truck, I'am stuck paying $434 a month for something I cant drive, and that I haven't even had in my driveway for 4 months Everything comes down to this first company They had shitty customer support, they kept my truck for 2 full months, didnt touch it till the last week, they promised they would get the BCM module for me, after the case was closed, they never did- thats why I brought the truck to Kniesels/Dealership Bottom line, they screwed me over for 2 months while my truck was at the shop, 2 months while my truck sat in the driveway, not working, waiting for these fools to "remember" to work on my truck, or get parts with out me calling them. They got paid for a "Completed" service, that was returned half asses, and NOT working, and screwed me I emailed BAR who I was told to do by the Dealership. I need to wait on that, that was just Thursday I just want my truck fixed, and working What do you guys think?

Dual 3ohm subs, two of them, so you should think about something that can handle 0.75ohms easily, or a high power@4ohm amp Iam sure the 2200 will do fine at 0.75ohms, with box rise, and wiring, sure it will be over 1ohm anyways

if u just have the dustcap theres a decent amount of volume below it, shrink that space and u improve the cooling is my guess, lol mmmm 44mm The place I used to work at, in the early 2000s we had problems with domes popping off, but we started to put little 4" sub domes before the main dome. That dome was super hard resined paper, epoxy the crap out of it, and then put a decent poly dome above that, like a 6"+ and that regulated the pressure between the domes, and dome popping was 100% eliminated Doing the former cap as he said, does help with something else though, thats for Jacob to explain though

Bump- 2 left

So none of yall woke up with crying babies, or tigers in bathrooms, naked asians in trunks? none of that crazy stuff?

Selling a few of these coils, I bought a lot of 8 only needed 2, I'am keeping 2 for back up, and want to sell 4 These are flat wire copper coils, 2.3" so 0.3" more winding area, former long enough to reach a 18" cone with some extra former to play with $45 each or $150 for 4 shipped VERY HARD COILS TO COME BY- RARE SIZE! These will make a perfect match for the 9500 or equivalent motors Also former is extra hard just like the factory DD coils damn near unbreakable!

I dont know if this is posted, but seen this vid tonite, and holey shit!

Pretty sick ride. Iam not a Lexus fan, but I love that interior/dash, and my neighbor loves this car, and swears by it. Definitely looks fast

This happened when I opened a Gmail acct, since Gmail, Youtube, and the Chrome homepage are linked together. Youtube tried to linke youtube to my gmail, and I got all messed up for about 2 weeks, until I found out how to separate the two accts