trappin859

Some good budget 18's IMO are the hdc318, and the MJ18-M. The latter you could get 4 of and run one 3000d to them.

Yeah, if you get a car without folding rear seats, you won't start to get loud until you're pushing over 1k watts. That is unless you port through the rear deck lid, which is pretty involved.

He isn't gonna get much at BB or CC for $500. The first and only time I did what you're saying. I wound up spending like $800. Type-r 12 in prefab ported, punch250, and a 4ga wiring kit. No HU, and that price was installed. Here's what I suggest for what it's worth. Sub: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=2529 Box: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3527 Amp: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3732 Wiring Kit: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KLM-K4 HU: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=6185 Fyi; that type-r on 250watts was pretty loud to me when I had it, so depending on what vehicle you have, that setup should get plenty loud for what you want.

VERY affordable at the low low price of $2000 lol. I'm sure you could get one used for a good bit less though.

AQ2200, or ZX2500. Either one would be sufficient.

Would you be able to find out how much shipped to 41005? With and without box weight please.

Is you box ported, or sealed? What is the cubic feet of your box? If you're using a prefab ported, get rid of it because chances are it is tuned way too high. Powermaster, Ohio Generator, and Iraggi are other alternator brands you could look into.

Hmm... I always thought that going sub up, port back in a trunk car would cause excessive rattle on the trunk lid.

What year cobra is it? If it's a fox body cobra, I'd say sub up, port back; but if it's a trunk, sub and port back should work nicely. Or, you could always seal the subs and port from the trunk and have them firing into the cabin. Very similar to a blow-thru on trucks.

Hey, if you wanna save a couple $$ I'd look into AQ amps. 2200D for $389 shipped, and it will have roughly the same output as the rockford for half the price. Just something to consider.

Harley's, and fuckin Bro's in diesel trucks spewing black smoke at every red light really piss me off. However, they aren't needlessly targeted because Harley's and diesel trucks aren't stupidly associated with minorities. I think people that bitch about things like this have too much time on their hands and need to pick up a hobby of their own.

Or, you could go with an AQ 2200D that puts out 1700watts@2ohms for less than $400.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=17757 There you go. $569 shipped brand new.

He could have a high compression setup or forced induction. Both would require premium fuel to prevent detonation. Or, he could just be overly meticulous about his 20yr. old economy car lol.

1996-1998 Civic hatchback is a good choice and in your price range.

You'll hear cleaner bass because there will be less rattling. That will make your system louder to the ear, although it may not reflect it on the meter.

I know this is a stupid question, but I gotta ask lol. Should I get a D1, or D2 sub if I'm wiring it a 2ohms?

Kicker 08ZX2500.1 15" Fi BTL fully loaded Phoenix Gold RSd65cs Kicker 06ZX350.2 250A EA alternator Optima yellow top battery 1/0 ga. wire Sound deadener 4cu./ft. slot ported box tuned to 34hz That's the list I'm going with for my next system. Thanks to all that helped with my decision.

You're right, but then again I need to save money anywhere I can. I really just need an amp that will perform the way it's intended. I'm also rethinking the Alpine HU. Probably gonna keep my Clarion since it's got quite a few features and is one of their higher-end models.

That's what I've heard. Do you think that a HO alt, extra battery, and a couple runs of 0/1ga. wire would keep my voltage at 14.4?

LOL. Sounds like a dream.

I guess you're right. Might as well get good equipment the first time around so I don't have to spend more later down the road. What about a box? Do you, or anyone, know where I could get a nice box built and shipped for less than $300? Also, what should tuning and cu./ft. be? I was thinking 5cu./ft. tuned to 34hz. Who's that girl in your sig? lol

Also, I'd rather not buy used if I can help it.

What amp would you suggest that's around $500?

How's it going everyone? I'm a newly registered member to the forum but have been lurking for awhile now. Decided to sign up and ask the below questions, and hopefully get some good responses. Here is a list I've made that I'm 99% sure I'm going to go with, unless someone can convince me otherwise. Alpine CDA-9887 (hu) $349.00 Phoenix Gold RSd65cs (components) $129.00 Crunch GP2150 (component amp) $99.00 Crunch GP3000D-Pro (sub amp) $449.00 Fi 15" BTL (sub) $430.00 (not sure if I need d1 or d2?) Iraggi 220A alt $340.00 Still not sure where to get the box, where it should be tuned at, and how many cubes it should be. I mostly listen to rap/hip hop. Also, what would be the optimal box placement to reduce rattles and still keep audible output high? The car this will be going into is a 2001 Monte Carlo if that makes a difference. I'd really like some solid replies on this since I plan on making this purchase in the next week or so.