All Night Long

I'm getting ready to finish up an install with 2 level 3 12's in a kia. Let me know how you like yours. I have the 12's going into a 3.3cuft after displacement box with 20sqin of port per woofer tuned to 37hz. For a trunk car I'm sure it will get loud. What are you putting that 15 in?

It doesn't have to be loud to move air. The box could just be tuned in the 20's with a ton of port velocity and move air like that with no problem. I don't doubt at all that 1500 watts is going to put a btl at full xmax and cause it to move a ton of air. I've had 15's that were tuned to 24hz and when it played that it shook the steering wheel so bad it looked like it was going to fall off and it didn't meter that well at all. Point is just because you can move a shirt in a window doesn't mean that it's the loudest 15 ever. I bet that setup isn't doing over a 145 on the dash db drag style.

I killed a stock 120 amp alt with 2 3800 amp 8d's, but that's a total of 7600 amps that were in the rear of the car plus the stock battery which was around 800. So, 8400 amps of battery on a 120 amp alt with 1 run of 0 guage will definately kill your stock alt. But hey I was 17 and didn't know any better. Just gave me an opportunity to use my lifetime waranty on the thing Right now I charge my stock batt which is 750amps and also a Powermaster D3100 which is listed around 2500 amps and I have a stock 110 amp alt. The alt charges the batts fine and I still put it on the charger every week for a night or two. There's nothing better than seeing your battery voltage at 14.8 volts when you start the car in the morning. Oh yeah, I haven't even done all of the big three yet in my new car either. The alt is a pain in the ass to get to so I haven't even got to run 0 guage to it yet, but stock ground is upgraded and also grounded to the engine block. What are you trying to run off of a stock alt? Because I can say that you might kill it with a huge battery in the trunk with 4 guage runnning to it.

If you are playing bass heavy tracks this is definately going to happen after 30 mins. Even if you aren't the amp may be sending a somewhat clipped signal to the subs causing them to get hot. I would suggest that you turn it down some in that time period because there aren't many subs on the market that can take a full volume beating for 30 consecutive minutes and not get hot. It could also be that you have the bass boost set way too high. I would turn down the bass boost to about a quarter of the way up and then compensate the loss by turning up the gain on the amp. You are going to get a much cleaner sound this way and more than likely prolong the life of your subs.

Would probably be louder if it were ported and would work better since ported is more efficient. It looks like it gets down for a sealed box though. I'm just not a fan of them, that's all. Good work.

Is that a sealed box?

If you're planning on doing over 150 db then I would say go for the Alpine. I've heard good things about their decks and high spl. Also if you compete with if you can use it to mute roll the volume to help keep amps out of protect at low impedences.

Np, let me know how it turns out for you. Like you said you don't want your truck catching on fire. Hope everything goes well for you.

You might be able to get away with the 2 runs and right before the amp have a distribution block that cuts it down to one wire with say 8-10" going to the amp.

I'm not sure why you are melting the fuse blocks, but if the 300 amp fuse didn't pop then you aren't pulling 300 amps. It might make a difference on how long your wire is. Is there an extra long run in the vehicle? That may have something to do with it. If there is a long run after the fuse then that could explain why the wire is getting so hot to melt the fuse block. I like the suggestion of running another 1/0 and fusing it. I have 2 runs alone in my car for a GP pro 3000D going to a D3100 in the rear. And if you're running a T4000BD I would say you do need another run for sure. Do you see what I was saying about the 2/0? If you put in the bigger wire and fuse it lower all you are doing is restricting current, so it makes no sense to do a larger wire on a 250 amp fuse. Run two 0 guage and fuse tehm both with 250 or 300 and be done with it.

Not bad at all. How are you liking those level 4's? I do have one suggestion though. I would push the box up against the back hatch of the truck and you will probably notice that it will be a lot louder that way. I'm not sure how big the aero's that you used on the box were, they look like 4". So I would put the box about 4" away from the rear lift gate and expect some increase. Try it when you get it metered the way that it is and then move it back where I said and see if there is a gian.

Why even do 2/0 if you're going to put in 250 amp fuses? I would stick to 1/0 in that case because putting in 2 would just be a waste to be fused at 250. The whole idea of larger wire is to allow more current to flow and when you restrict it with a 250 amp fuse you are defeating the purpose of putting in 2/0.

I can't get the video to work. It sounds like a cool idea though.

Scratch that. The new subs that I have are much louder and this deck is skipping like crazy in my car. I don't know what to do until the changer I ordered comes except just turn it down a little bit. I put a friend of mine's Ipod in the car today and it was awesome. I could turn the deck up no problem without any skipping and the subs actually got a little warm to where I could smell them some. I turned it down after about 10 minutes of constant beating. I'm actually looking for a deck myself that isn't going to skip in my car now, but I'm sure that the changer that I have on the way will take care of the problem.

Sho nuff. I'd be willing to be that with 1 15 and 1500 watts in the 4 Runner you would be able to see 145's no problem, and with 2 15's and 3000 watts 150's might not be out of the question either. Go for it, and make sure to keep updated with pics too.