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tahoexfixssd

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Everything posted by tahoexfixssd

  1. for sale is 4 pairs of TREO RSX20t tweeters 3 sets are used with no crossovers 1 set BNIB with crossovers. 75 watts rms. $13 shipped per pair for used ones. $25 shipped for BNIB
  2. for sale is a Stetsom 14k2d modded with 7 extra caps. amp is in 10/10 cosmetic (it was in my truck if that tells you how it was taken care of) mechanical is 10/10 also it IS the 18v version but it has never seen 18 volts. clamped out around 8k at 11.2 volts. the only issue with this amp is the RCA input jack... when i first put it in i was working on the headliner and broke the jack. i have SOLDERED a female rca onto the board. it works fine and has no noise issues or problems. 1250 shipped obo. comes with original box and manual
  3. up for sale is 2 AQ HDC3 18's dual 1.... 9/10 cosmetic because of greenish tint of surround. no scuffs not even a year old. bought in may 2011 copper coils i believe.. whatever comes standard (i wasnt original owner) coils still read 1 ohm. 255 shipped each obo 500 for pair shipped.
  4. figured this was a good old vid that i found in my youtube that kinda got lost in time not sure i ever posted a build log of it. didnt take to many pics
  5. to get the appropriate length... if the length of the port doesnt exceed the depth of the box, then it doesnt have to bend, but make sure its the same width off the back wall as the width of the port itself
  6. now you can do your carpet. leave some extra carpet around the outer edges as well and when you test fit trim off what you need. you can sometimes use this carpet to hold it in with the weatherstrip instead of the fleece. but make sure your glue is strong enough to hold. all said and done should look like this
  7. once you have it in the weatherstripping you need to staple it to the wooden shape you cut for the trim panel. this process may take awhile to get it perfect with not stretch marks. once it is stapled in that area then do you amp trim ring. the very bottom of the truck had a rocker panel that was split and would look alright if i held the fleece down this way its also important to tape off the weather strip to prvent resin from gettin gon it lay on your resin. this takes alot of resin. its very important that you soak it very well EVERYWHERE. you have to get resin as close to the weatherstrip as possible.... after you do this, add fiberglass matt. you want this tub to be sturdy and not crack or bend. NOTE: after it dries leave it in the truck for a few days... this is to ensure that it does not shrink or sag.. i have had this happen before and it ruins your whole project. once it is dried take it out and knock down all rough edges and do your body work liek your normally would on fiberglass. make sure to install it back in the truck every now and them to ensure it fits and hasnt sagged. one thing that you must do so that it will fit is cut off the fleece but leave about an inch of un soaked fleece so that the weatherstrip will hold it in. keep doing test fits while doignthis. you want the weatherstrip to hold it, but you dont want your fleece coming out the other side or else you will have leaks. this is a test fit of the other side after some work was done. you can see the extra fleece
  8. Ok i have been wanting to post this for awhile but havent had time. had alot of questions about this truck and "how the hell did you do that" from alot of locals and what nnot. most with any experience have a general idea of how its done but dont know every step. i will show you... this technique could also be used in trunks as well or even on you b pillars Materials/tools: 1 gal fiberglass resin 24oz fiberglass matt (or chopper gun but this is before i had one) chip brushes body filler of your choice (i prefer rage gold for ease of sanding) painters tape paper (to mask areas off) fleece (i would use something relativley thin) staple gun drill sander die grinder sand paper ok here we go.... this is the area where amps will go that we will be trimming off. start by taping everything off where the fiberglass wil be near. remember resin will drain downward so its very imporant you put plenty of tape and paper on the floor and on the interior panels the fleece will be held under taping off the metal edge where the weatherstrip is is not important as the figerglass should not reach that far. now make the shape where the amp will go. you want to hold it up where it needs to sit to clear the amp. i used 1.125" mdf scraps and screwed them together in a way that it can be removed from inside the ring. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT... unless you never wanna take the tub out. next you wanna take a template of the outer edge of your trim panel around your wall. i would suggest making it 1/8-3/16 smaller so that when carpet/fleece there it will not be bigger than the acual panel. once you have that, tranfer it to wood. this piece will then be screwed to the trim panel FROM THE OUTSIDE. now if you dont want to screw thru your panel, this will be very difficult. i have tried double stick tape and it usually comes off when the fleece is stretched. once everything is taped off and you feel comfortable that your not gonna ruin your carpet, take fleece and lay it on the area USING THE WEATHER STRIPPING TO HOLD IT UP. this step is the trickiest part. may need 2 ppl to do it. it has to be straight and even for it to work right. also make sure that the weatherstip is on tight. i sometimes use duct tape to hold it onto the vehicle while im stretching
  9. very doubtful. meca state finals is in mattoon on sunday. the guys with us that run meca will be there. i think me and rob are prolly done for the season as he has blown ass woofers and i have no woofers lol
  10. you know thats wierd, it just says posted image just for that picture on my computer, i knew i put it on here hmmm
  11. alright its wall build month at my house. finished the honda up last week and hes waiting on his woofers, so heres the next build... Ford F350 with camper shell 2 RE SX 18's 2 US amps MD1D amps US amps MD 42 4 channel Duralast batteries (dont hate) 6th order bandpass thru the back window. and a bottle of everclear to aid in the late night builds lol might get fancy on the window start with a clean garage gettin steve the tint man to take the window out im working right now so pics will come as i get more don e
  12. this is the first wall i have built inside a car, so the top kinda worried me not being screwed into wood... so on top of the 1/8" steel angle and PL Premium advanced i layer the top with 6 pieces for added stiffnes with the scraps i had left over... they go almsot to the back more bracing.. again never built one in a car so i had to make it sturdy regardless of the small amount of power... i also will only beable to single later the baffle... which isnt a problem considering 4 screws from each woofer will be in a brace... woofers will come later
  13. well i have to put the yukon aside for a bit and get some work done for a team mate... woofers will be 4 IA lethal injection 15's amp is a db a7 2000.1 for now box is 15 cubes after displacement tuned at 35. 9 ply birch. this is what he had before now... (and dont get excited thinking your gonna see a bunch of fancy shit on this one cuz this is just a basic wall .. just need to get him louder! haha since hes the only one on the team thats not in the 50's spent an hour scraping off the old tint new tint....its called Rustoleum Premium Enamel haha
  14. We dont have the woofers for this build yet, but we decided to get the build outta the way. i will also be making a tutorial on how to do the fiberglass tubs..
  15. cvx's like bigber boxes if you can. 3.5 would be nice minimum. 4ft3 each at 33 would be best. if not they will work very will in around 2.5 sealed. i have done several sealed boxes with l7's (same thing except square) and they are amazing sealed

  16. i have 2 woofers that i had bought from Brian Owens off of CA.com that wer crossfire motors with a fi basket & BTL softparts. i had an issue with one of them before and emailed FI and got a fast reply and they fixed it and got it back to me within a week. well i have since torn the spiders on these woofers and contacted to get them reconed several months ago but got no reply. i just let it go and they have been sitting for awhile. well i sold 2 of the motors and ordered BTL recones to do it myself as i have done for other production BTL's before. well im not sure if i ordered the kits for the wrong series of BTL's or what but i did one and messed it up somehow the coils are off and i just gave up before i wasted anymore money on the other one. i sent an email into FI about a week ago and still have got no reply from both email adresses i sent to about sending them in. can anyone on here help me ? it would be greatly appriciated. picture of the woofers.
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