garettsoN

dibs on the first smd chevy silverado box

About 1300 Watts, with 2 Amplifers. I already have an Optima, Im going to look into the Big 3....does this noticeably help?

No I haven't done the big three..how do I do that? I think its 110? Its a 2001 Chevy Silverado

Here's my problem. With 1000W amp and 2 12s, I get voltage drop pretty bad at idle. I'm chillin at like 12V when im slammin stopped. When I get past about 1200 RPMs its fine, well kind of. I still notice the lights dimming but the gauge doesnt drop so low. My question is...Is this bad? I mean bad for like the accessories, fuel pump, window motors, etc. I don't really mind the lights dimming cause my HIDs dont dim like standard halogens would...if it is, what size alternator should I get? I don't have enough room to add any extra batterys.

Well what did he end up doing?

I am getting a Sears "credit" card, basically it's a credit card with half the interest that goes along with a standard credit card. I figure I can buy something I've always wanted...like a big TV or a nice computer at Sears, put it on the card and pay it off in full, it builds the same credit a regular credit card does. but that way and your not paying out the ass on interest.

after last night...and using my stereo it's almost like my amp/subs start working after my truck has been on for 5-10mins... if i shut my truck off go do something and then get back in they dont work, then all of the sudden they decide to start working like when im just driving down a street. still going to reground my amp today though...

i know the ground is on the back seat bolt right now lol, but my old amp worked fine with it.. ill check it out though.

i live in socal man, i think thats kinda far for you? haha

yeah i know, the protection light isnt on. i dont understand it...just on my way back from the store my stereo was working flawlessly.... get back in it to get food and it sounds like one sub is missing...then it starts hitting idk man. Ive spent almost all day trying to fix the thing.

???

What makes me think the amps faulty is my subs make a popping noise...like clipping but not clippping because it does it when the volume is all the way down and no song playing either....does that sound like an amp issue?

my led is red, but yeah it stays on the entire time. and no my amp never got hot, the amp and subs pounded the first day i had them i mean i my subs were slappin and the amp barely got warm.

i have a pioneer avh-p4100 deck monster rca cables and im running stinger 4 gauge power wire. rca connections are all good, the amp stays on the entire...well atleast the kicker LED, the protect light never turns on either. im stumped...

I was running my old amp Kenwood kac 7202 with the subs and they worked just fine before i got the new amp. i bought the amp from hifisoundconnection.com any ideas?

a couple days ago i replaced my old amp with a kicker zx1000 with 4 gauge p/w powering 2 12" kicker cvrs wired in 2ohm parallel today and last night they've been acting up alot...they cut in and out on songs, sometimes don't work at all and sometimes work just fine, the subs "pop" on low/no volume only sometimes to. and idk how to troubleshoot this anymore than i already have. i've checked ground, fuses, voltage levels, etc. all grounds are good, all fuses are good, voltage reads 14.3 at the amp....i cant figure this damn thing out. i bought a factory refurbished amp....could it be the amp is just faulty?

just recently upgraded from my old 10" infinity referance 1052s to some 12" kicker cvr's, i only have 230 watts going to them right now, all i can say is god damn!!! for anyone on the edge about getting either 10s or 12s, hands down 12s over 10s not only are the subs are so much louder than before, but they pick up even more bass, stuff i wouldn't hear on the same songs with my 10s i have the kicker zx1000.1 on order right now, so when it gets here im gonna wire the subs down to 2 ohms and its about to get even louder will keep posted how long should i "break in" my subs before cranking them?

Got them pegged out. Could it be the motor?

Finnaly after lubing the shit out of my windows on my 01 Silverado it all works...well kinda. Windows go up and down with the "One-touch" thing no problem when truck is running, but once the truck is off and I Lock my doors...and my windows roll up. The Driver window rolls up but the passenger window gets stuck. Seems like its a battery issue? Once the alts charge the battery it works fine...I dont know if I need to rework the wires or just get a new battery? The one in my truck is a standerd car battery, No optima or anything. Anyone have this problem before? And the "vent" feature on seems to be backwards and vents rolling the windows up, instead of down. Thats prolly just a wire backwards though.

excuse us Mr. forum police

Had mine since June 5th when it came out...phone still works great. I've droped it a couple times gettin outta my truck...still works fine minus some scratches.

I have the IVA D106 by alpine and this deck is fantastic. Not one problem with it, fast, easy to use, can add on just about anything you want to this deck....Navi, Satilite, HD Radio...IMPRINT....and it comes with a free remote and ipod/video cable so using the deck closed is a breeze if you use playlist's. I don't know of any big name brand decks that have what you wanted above but Alpine comes pretty close to it.

Only deck I know of is the SD-906 by Valor Wouldn't recommend it though. No name brand and its really cheap You kinda want a lot for a single din deck and no external brain....

Bump

Was looking at these two: Clarion VZ-409 Pioneer AVH-P4900