Neo_frog

Hmm...this is some good info. I've never actually tested the alt output, but I have the same alts as the Hoopty and that's how I'm comparing my situation. And the voltage drops slowly while playing at full tilt. Revving doesn't help much either. I can easily pull off a 15 second burp (which would be my RMS) but music only plays with no gain on the amps. I drop from 13.4 @ idle to 12.5 before I turn it down. It's very loud, but not full potential... I might just consider a more efficient amp... Any recommendations?

That's what I hear.. it's kinda sad. What other amps have that technology? Anything in the 4000W range?

At full tilt each one pulls 400A. But does that regulated voltage significantly drop the current?

I have an Iraggi 300A alternator and 4 Kinetik HC2400s in my car. My 2 MCD4KW amps still cause a voltage drop until its unsafe to play... (I kill it at 12.5V but it gets there quick) I have two questions... Why is it that my 300A alt cannot handle 8000W when the Hoopty has 2 300A alts and it plays 30,000W with no problem??? What am I doing wrong? Would the MLA module really reduce current that much?

These are not in chronological order!!! But should give you a good idea... 1.Wire from + on battery to the amp + <-(power wire, usually red, orange, blue, white, etc...) -Requires fuse block about 6" after battery + -Run wire from BAT + to fuse block, leave fuse OUT, then from fuse block out -Run through firewall -Find a hole from under hood to inside car. (Works easily with two ppl and flash light for starters) -Run under carpet -May require to pull up kick panels on one side to pull carpet back. -Do one piece at a time...take your time. PLAN YOUR ROUTE -Run through to trunk -May require extra work depending on the car... 2. Figure out setup in trunk to determine wire lengths and placement. -Do a "dummy hookup" to ensure proper fit and lengths 3. Wire from - on amp screwed to car's chassis <-(ground wire, usually brown or black or custom color for install) -Screw wire with a ring terminal into a strong metal part of the car's trunk, or use an existing bolt 4.Remote (usually blue) wire from HU to amp REM <-(turns amp on with car, the small terminal by + and -) -Locate the remote wire on the head unit harness (should be labeled with newer models) -Splice one end of remote into that by cutting stripping and connecting (w/ tape or solder) -Run through dash (straight down is usually easiest) and under carpet with power if possible (Not necessary though) 5. RCAs from HU pre-outs to rear -Find the SW (or Rear channel) pre outs on head unit and plug in RCAs -Run under carpet away from power wire if possible. Once you get there, the guys will help you with the sub wiring. That's the basic amp install. I hope I didn't forget anything!

Let's hear some more ideas!

How would I tune a 4th order? I don't know anything about them other than how to build one.

When I said new design, I meant MY new design. I'm pretty sure anything I come up with has been thought of already. And I didn't even come up with this myself!

You know...I really considered this one and I have a sketch of it. But from all the research I do on bandpass boxes, it seems from what ppl say the results are not what I'm looking for. =/ Maybe a future build? I have a van too and I'm thinking about working on that again next summer. I don't have any vehicles that take more than two alts... XP

Yeah I think with any 20+ sub design I do I'll have some cancelation. That's why I'm asking for advice. But the thing is, yeah I can do two 18s on a wall with a huge port to be loud, but it seems everybody does that. I'm trying to be a bit different. Although when SMD subs come out, I'm going to submit to two of those on a wall...I just can't help it. haha

It may look odd, but I've strapped the box number for number and I have clearance for everything as shown and I got it to 26.17 cu.ft. by subtracting the pyramid displacement from the total box volume. More than enough for these subs!

Fixed the mess up! My bad guys!

Welcome to SMD! I share your passion for knowledge in this field and let me tell you...these guys know their stuff! I'm always amazed at the knowledge and craftsmanship of the members here and I learn something new every day. Just ask us anything and we can help.

I'm at work so I can't post pics, but I can't stand waiting! I have new designs that I think I'm gonna do. I have 8000W and I want it to be as loud as possible. Here's the link to my latest design: http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?...albumId=2408450 Thanks to uhoh_45 for the initial design of that box.. But tell me... Will this megaphone design be good? Or should I do something else? EDIT: Feel free to name subs, quantities, and enclosure if you don't like this one. Anything that will take 8000

Basically they mean instead of running just one wire from battery to back, they run MULTIPLE. Once you get to high power applications, it's a neccessity to have tons of 1/0 wire or bigger.

Heh, it is true though. I'm a Marine and most of my guys go for the fat ones! But this??? This is ridiculous! Probably b/c he's Army ROTC!

Ok Ok! I'm done wiping the tears from my face now. Holy shit....

I have the 2400s and my buddy has 3100s. IMO they're almost identical in performance. But every car is different and I could be totally wrong. But I've never actually benched them or know anybody who did.

So essentially its a bunch of subs firing into a sealed box, but the chamber with the motors is open to the front of the car... I don't know...it seems like I would need a lot of space to accomplish that.

I'm not sure how those are designed...and I'm not sure about the "order". Maybe a little description? I'm at work so pics are behind firewall.

I'm debating on getting rid of the 32 10s in the tunnel and going with a new design and subs other than Memphis. No, there's nothing wrong with my build, I'm just doing build after build to find the best results and learn to be an elite installer. I have a long way to go, but I'm getting there. I have 8000W RMS @ 1-ohm potential on two amps. Are there any sub setups you guys would like to see? What kind of subs? Remember it's a PT Cruiser so 8 18s just will not fit. Shoot me some ideas so I can start another fun build! This helps me learn more and more and they get better and better as I go. Thanks gents.

Upload your pictures to Photobucket and use the code to post to a forum.

I had four of these in my last setup, and I have two in my current one. Just a note on them, they perform extremely well and have a very sick amount of output, but they are power hogs. Look into getting another alternator (dual) for 16V applications and a bunch of 16V batteries. If that's not possible, just get huge batteries and externally regulate your alternator with an MLA module. They will run on 12V, but not to their potential.

Notice, he said that reading was before he got the new boxes and two more subs. He was hitting that with just two.

I get a strange feeling that number was completely arbitrary. If you were hitting 155+ with two subs on 1000W, you: 1. Would know you were a ground pounder 2. Been to many many more shows 3. Had engineers design your box 4. The meter was bought on eBay. I second the BS.