siucsaluki11

Thanks for the info but what exactly do you mean peaky??? and most of my friends do listen to a lot of rap and hip hop. I know what you mean about the enclosure too. Here where I live, kicker L7's are cream of the crop ( if you don't have them you're not cool ) and Ive heard some in pre fab boxes that sound real crappy and Ive also heard some in properly designed boxes that make them sound pretty damn loud and get low as hell. I like the subs but for like 350 a piece for 15's ( local shop price ) I could get a FI BL or a nice sundown or something. where do you live, OK? I was in stillwater, OK for a year and a half at OK state for school, Kicker had a plant right across the lake from the disc golf course.

IF the SHTF I'm getting a Kel-tech PLR-22, my buddy got one, such a badass little .22, thing looks beastly...hes got a sling and red dot on it, says its real accurate up to 100 yards.... If the SHTF, I'm buying a 9mm glock, full size (i got big hands, full frame guns just fit better in my hands, I'm fucking 6'6, so yeah, big ass hands...) never heard of a glock getting fucked, and 9mm ammo is everywhere. Ill also buy a that PLR-22 like my buddy has (and get a drum mag for it iirc they are available), 22s are cheap as fuck, very plentiful, and if you just need to get one shot in the head, doesn't matter if its a .22 or a .50 does it? And AFAIK kel-tec makes reliable firearms, same guy who designed the tec-9

trust me, i want the 357 cuz its uncommon, that is one of the reasons, same reason i want a 10mm even though i have a .40 already. The cop i talked to was had been on the service for 30 years, he had carried .45s, 9mms, .40s and now the .357 He likes that best cuz it has the ammo capacity and a bit more stopping power (he claims). If were talking zombie guns, 9mm all day, fuck, id even go to a .22, that shit is everywhere, just need to hit them in the head right? I got a lil 22 SW target pistol also.... hopefully my grandfather lives for a while, but when he goes, i want one of his 2 .44s

i didn't even notice he's from my shitty state, lol. Obama is fucking us hard. Ive heard good things about the .357auto...i was debating between that, a 9mm and a .40, from what i got from every cop I've talked to, they like the .357

personally, thats why i prefer shotguns, no, not practical for carrying in a daily scenario, but if the SHTF, ill carry my Browning Gold 12ga or my 870 all day long (gold would be preferred, less recoil, but requires more cleaning, so maybe my benelli semi). I shoot sporting clays, and hunt pheasant and dove, I'm good with a shotgun, decent with a rifle, OK with a handgun, but if i were to carry one of those, id definitely take some courses first....as far as shotguns though, I've made my way up to A class for NSCA

my box weighs enough (over 120lbs) but it slides from side to side still....which is annoying me....once i get me that fucking X or Zcon 15...mmmm....man i need school to end so i can make money.

they are fastened, just don't really trust them. The frame that holds the back seat is a beast though, all tube steel and held in place by 4 decent sized bolts (the setback itself i mean)... I may look into making a false floor around the box to screw the l brackets too.....i don't have the heigh to give up 3/4 of an inch back there. I know they bit the sheet metal, i just don't know how much i trust them, which is why they are about every 4 inches across the back of my box....

bullshit it doesn't move, try slamming on your breaks on the highway and see if it doesn't move...friction is not enough, especially if you get into an accident, figure a sheet of MDF at 75lbs, thats a box right there, add in a pair of decent 12s, 20lbs each, thats now a 115lb weight waiting to be thrown when your car goes from moving to stopped in a fraction of a second.

IF its for the range, full size block .45, but .45s are expensive now....my buddy had one, till some bs and the 5-0 confiscated it, even though he legally had it in his apartment....(this was in oklahoma).... Personally, if i ever get a concealed gun, I'm getting a G32C, i have a SW .40 currently, not a bad gun.

So what do you guys do to keep your box from sliding around in the trunk? Personally, I've got mine held in place by L brackets on every side of it screwed into the body, but some of them are starting to loose their bite i think, i get some side to side movement, but none front to back. I don't wanna screw into my gas tank or anything, and I'm wanting to build a new box and some amp racks...so yeah, what do you guys do to keep your boxes in place?

i was talking power wise. My blazer was at 141-142@37Hz, haven't been able to get my lancer NEAR that....and since I'm in school all the damn time, don't have the time to make the money needed to get it up there. Really wanting to try around with a few things, but not sure how they will turn out.

then id say your pretty well set for now....im doing the big 3 in a few weeks, then starting to save for a 15 i can run at one ohm, since I'm running my 2 12s at a 2 ohm final load at the amp currently, may work on designing some amp racks if i can find time over the weekends...sucks having all my free time being on the weekends, just glad its looking like it may start cooling off.

no guarantee a new box will do shit either. Chances are doubling the power from 750 to well over that to each of his 9512s will have a drastic effect. Doubling cone area on the same power is the same as doubling power on the same cone area....in theory....whos to say his electrical isn't stout as it is?

theory says if you double the power you'll double the output, so in theory you'll see a 3dB increase....but like i said, thats theory, there are way too many variables to take into account to say. ch0sen, you obviously don't know about DD, they will laugh at that amount of power....

nice truck man!

thats about all I've found as well, it seems like its a guess and check kinda thing....

birch ply, not MDF....thats what i thought it was....MDF is fiberboard, which is different from plywood, which basic ply is SHIT compared to good birch plywood.

go to any retailer and you can get them cheaper.. i got a hc2000 for 200 and some hc2400 for 250 the oreiley ones are deka batteries so they should be goos and are agm for 159 well shit, i may be looking into them. and no, the shops around here charge out the ass, i live in the upperclass suburbs of chicago...theres a lot of money here, i used to work for a few different shops, and yeah, they charge out the ass....

How does one determine how big to make the sealed area and how large and where to tune the ported area? Are you guys running formulas, guessing blindly, or are you using software? I have BBP6 and winISD on my other laptop, but its slow, so i usually just stick to my mac.

as said before, MOAR PORT, what kinda wood did you use?

any input on orientation, placement of drivers in sub(s) back port to side, or subs and port back, how far/close to the port should the sub be.... I don't have money for new subs at the moment, but I'm contemplating building them a new box. Either dual chamber, like in the 2nd post, or subs back port to side again, like I've been running for years, which i know gets loud and sounds good, also gives me the most volume and lowest tuning with most port area.....

you don't want lead acid batteries, you want AGM, go with xs power, or kinetic, I got my HC1400 for 220 shipped new from sonic.

also 3.4 net 33-34Hz port is 15.5x3.25 and 3.3 net @35Hz, port is 15.5x3.5 My current box is subs and port back, similar the 2nd design posted in OP, but with a pair of 12s.

Working on a few designs, for the trunk of a 2010 Lancer, base model, seats don't fold..... Looking at maybe a single 15" Xcon All enclosures are tuned around 33Hz and about 3.5 cubes just the floor plan of the box, if i go that route, where should i position the sub, closer or father away from the port opening? or or i made sure that the sub isn't lined up with the port for the last one, i can move it over father if need be, but yeah, i know it looks close, but its not lined up with it

37w x 15h x 22 1/4d. 2.5" wide for each sub the a 5" main port ahh, you got 7 more inches you can run wide than i do. I can get more volume leaving my box subs back port to wheel well, but i was experimenting with other designs, and trying to decide if any are worth building, and was trying to figure out how you got that much space with that design.