kirill007
-
Posts
3169 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by kirill007
-
-
100% coverage is necessary for it to be effecitive, it's a noise barrier. You can use high strength velcro to hang it inside your door or behind the panel.
-
real sound deadener like second skin isnt made to add mass but it still does.
That is a side effect, not the goal of a deadener.
If you want to know how to soundproof a car, this is the best site (at the moment): http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/content/welcome-sound-deadener-showdown
-
1
-
-
I know you said it was the toll tag and stuff but thing to remember that saved me a lot of money and time if you do anymore installs in the future.
Sound deadner = add mass
closed cell foam = quells rattles
20%-50% coverage of deadner should do you, I would use more like 20-30% depending on location like inner door skin, cover it in closed cell foam to cut down the rattles.
NO, that is not what a Sound deadener is supposed to do, it's supposed to provide some structural strength to the panel and absorb vibrations instead of lowering the resonant frequency.
-
Not to be a dick but if you have never been able to look on a board and see something blown or burnt then you obviously haven't worked on many things.The last time I saw a chip or component that was blown and knew it by eye-sight was... Never..
I'm kinda leaning that way already. Was just trying to avoid paying out the ass for shipping. Been wanting to run all RF amps, I guess it's time to save up...Just send it to db-r, then sell it. I had one repaired multiple times for the same parts failing over and over.
Might be a reason they aren't produced any more.
Not to be a dick, but in most cases you can't see if anything is wrong with it.
Just because sometimes you can see it, doesn't mean that a lot of other things aren't dead because there is no visible damage.
-
For the people that find the thread tl;dr.
Amp doesn't work properly, sundown quickly send him a new amp and it had a bent tab.(probably because of shipping)
-
Kirill what are you talking about ? Better performance with less speakers I have 8 sa 12s in a wall and I'm setting the gain on an saz3000
I'm talking about the mids and highs.
-
Did anyone completely skip over the fact, that he said he tuned his amps with a EQ preset on his HU? Unhook the speakers from the HU now, they will do nothing to make your ride sound better or louder, only hinder it. When you set your amp, set it with your knob all the way up, seeing as you said it's a level adjustment, not bass boost. And when you set everything, all your EQ's and filters must be at their lowest points or completely turned off.
There are so many things wrong, it's not that hard to miss a thing.
And you forgot to tell him to NEVER boost any frequencies; only cut. (so only -x, not +x.)
After I reset everything without the line driver and with the knob adjusted, I didn't play full tilt but half volume I could tell that actually turning it down turned it down adm turning it up turned it up since I set it with the knob in the middle, so hopefully that fixed my problem I didnt WANa smoke any subs and the dd1 is handy once you figure out how to properly set everything to use it, thanks everyone
You are doing it wrong again, set the gain with the knob at maximum.
You can set it like you just did, that's what I prefer, but that means you have to know how much your equipment can handle because if you turn it up above the middle it can still start clipping and send too much power to the subwoofers.
Regarding the speakers, if you want any help with it, just start a new thread(with pictures) because this one isn't clear.
If you don't want to have better performance with less speakers and less money, you just don't start a thread and hopefully people won't comment on it anymore.
-
Hu powered speakers and 8 12's walled? Now I've seen it all.
Yes, you usually set it with the remote all the way up unless it's a bass boost.
And lose the line driver, offcourse your gain will be at max if your amp can only handle 6V instead of the maximum 8 a line driver can provide at maximum volume.
Line drivers are useless in 99% of the installs that use them, only use for them is if you split a lot of RCA's, to like 8 or more amps and you start out with a 1V signal or lower, other then that it's pointless.
If it removed engine noise for you that's very lucky for you because they always add noise to the signal, just find the origin of the noise and lose the line driver.
-
-
someone said problems with my mid speakers..trust me those rcf speakers are extremely loud. car audio speaker wouldnt sound as loud
in my country we use alot of pro audio for our mids such as rcf.. bnc.. bemya.. faital pro..etc because we can play music extremely loud anywhere
Separate boxes arent good, put them in a shared airspace box with enough port area, which is more then 30sq inches per subwoofer.
The mids are useless for midbass unless you have them in a ported enclosure in your doors.
Because the midrange is so overpowering youll need a lot of midbass to balance it out, which isn't possible without porting the pro audio speakers. They are designed to work in ported enclosures.
You havent specified any equipment you have and didnt list your goals, nor posted pictures of what you have. It's harding understanding what you need.
You have the speakers mounted outside the car? Does that mean you want the same with the bass? So loud outside the vehicle, it's not for your own incar sound experience?
Also answering questions that have been asked will help you out too.
-
Get a proper box
I had no problems getting the pair of my buddies old SA-12s doing being rather loud from the trunk of my Cadillac in a 4th order bandpass ported thru the rear deck.
Of course I was raping them with a Sundown SAZ-4500.....
But they get loud regardless if you know what your doing with them.
Stock alt, 2 batteries voltage drop to only 12.2ish at idle with a 5,000 watt amp.. and doing it with CCA wire!
.youtube.
Offcourse you have so little voltage drop, if you actually look at how much power the amp will actually make after taking the impedance curve (+ 50% duty cycle on music) into consideration and the amount of resistance the CCA wire gives you. Without measuring you don't know how much current the amp is using.
As you probably already know, he can't have a frequency bandwidth starting at 35Hz reaching all the way up to 100-120Hz(just guessing haven't modeled those drivers yet ) and be loud at the same time without a lot of power behind them.
The OP should make ported enclosures for those PA woofers, that'll get him where he wants to be.
-
ok guys got 2 12" sundown sa12 and honestly very dissapointed
had it on a orion 1200D and honestly my 2 12" t3 audio t600 subs played alot louder
im not a big big fan of lows however looking for a sub that would excel from 35hz + playing note in the 40hz extremely well
so hence i want to able to get lows however i want it to be loudd
my mids is not car audio mids. i use pro audio mids consisting of 2 10" RCF midbass with 2 1" compression drivers which are in external boxes to play outside the car
so what is the best sub sundown have to offer me that would be able to play high notes very well and yet i can get lows ?
There's your problem.
-
1
-
-
Seems like the disadvantages easily win over the advantages.
Care to elaborate?
Certainly.
Advantage number 1 : You gain 132W (which is almost 3.5%)
A increase of 3.5 percent, which means it will be only 0.1 dB louder which more then obviously is unhearable or even unnoticeable.
Those are the only advantages.(except maybe looks)
Disadvantage number 1: You have to pay 25 dollar extra for the single reducer (plus shipping maybe?) or 30 dollar for the double 1/0 input where you see the 3.5 percent increase, so it would almost be stupid to buy the 0 guage to 0 guage adapter.
Disadvantage 2: You get a extra link in the chain of wiring that could fail.
Disadvantage 3: The amplifier becomes longer so you need more space.
Disadvantage 4:Positive and negative are not shielded off, so if you drop a screw or anything else that is conductive on it you will see spark and overheating of the object which can turn into a fire or atleast damage the interior of the car.
Now im going to list things I dislike: You need to pay extra for the reducer and then buy extra wire just to make a little tiny bit more power.
Why would I need to shove more wire in a amplifier even though the amp doesn't have dual or triple inputs for the positive and negative, i'm pretty sure the engingeers designed it so it only needs 1 set of terminals (if that isn't correct then the amp isn't engineered correctly and I certainly won't support that company)
Why would there be a increase in power if you add something to the chain of wiring eventhough the amount of wire stays the same(seems more like a test error to me, because the wire attaches exactly in the same way to the amp as it does to the reducers).
There can be some spelling/grammar mistakes as i'm typing this on my cellphone.
-
1
-
-
Seems like the disadvantages easily win over the advantages.
-
1.5ft3 net per sub with 15in2 of port per ft3 should do nicely. Tuning will be up to you, 32-35hz is a good range to be in.
Just put that in winisd and get port velocity of 74ft/s at 30 hz. As long as the vents are 45'd and a radius on the port exit. port noise should not be a problem correct?
Shouldn't be a problem at all.
-
I have to ask why is mmats so talked about all of the sudden? I havent seen anything that makes me go wow
Probably for the same reason anyone would choose skar, 0.5ohm, bandpass enclosures and so on...
-
People not understanding physics, thinking their equipment will defy the laws of physics.
-
1
-
-
Interesting tip, I though I was the only one doing that. (Although I have 3 creases per sheet)
It's easier to fold it on the side of a table or workbench.
At around 6.37 you apply the overkill to the roof, you forgot to tell people to also put some adhesive on the deadener first.
-
Cause of the power that you are wanting to run. the stock lvl4 is a 1400rms woofer you are waning to ad XL parts so that would bump up the rms on that woofer. The stock lvl 3 is a 900rms and a 1800 peak which falls right into the power that you are wanting to use.
Why would he not go with a lvl4 instead of lvl 3?
I would say with the the 4 if you can afford it.
-
what does the bump do to help?? This is interestingThis isn't really sound deadening doors as more of a howto apply CLD.
I happy you show people they still have to clean the doors before applying anything even if it's the best product out there.
Using CLD around the speaker openings isn't ideal, a closed cell foam would work a lot better.(or butyl rope)
Another Pro tip: if you want to use the CLD to help with flexing you have to make a small bump in the middle along the whole piece. (or more bumps)
Like this: ____-^-____
I like to do 1 of these bumps per 2-3 inches.
It reinforces the sound deaddener, just like a T-beam is stronger then a regular flat piece of metal.
-
This isn't really sound deadening doors as more of a howto apply CLD.
I happy you show people they still have to clean the doors before applying anything even if it's the best product out there.
Using CLD around the speaker openings isn't ideal, a closed cell foam would work a lot better.(or butyl rope)
Another Pro tip: if you want to use the CLD to help with flexing you have to make a small bump in the middle along the whole piece. (or more bumps)
Like this: ____-^-____
I like to do 1 of these bumps per 2-3 inches.
-
I hope people watch these video's, eventhough it's basic knowledge if you have ever studied anything related to electricity. (there are just too many people who don't understand the basics)
Good job Tony, you would be a good professor.
-
Can anyone explain why my answers keep getting deleted? ( this is already the third post.)
-
I see the cold/ hot terminology used often, but am still not sure what it means. Can anyone elaborate on this?
If the alternator get's hot, the voltage/amperage drops.
-
1
-
.gif){kind=small}
500amps at Idle, 900 amps peak power!!!!!
in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
Posted
Finally an alternator that can power my headunit properly.