Rebel4055

Funny thing is is that I had my DMM with me... Just forgot about it till I walked into the door. So just answer me this. This is wired correctly for this amp?

If anyone could throw me some info about "bridging" I would love that.

It sounds fine actually.... Trying not to sound stupid but I'm confused about bridging it. Or is it already?? I'm fucking lost with this shit. I love mono lol.

Yes I'm piss poor at paint lmao. The lay out of this isn't very good. The negative and postive on the terminal cups are linked.

Yeah hold up.

I'm lost too. I don't understand how they have them wired... The voice coils are wired positive to positive and negative to negative. Then this random wire outside of the box goes from the positive to the negative on each sub. Didn't get a change to take pictures. Needed to get the job done. They are dual 4 ohm. Now I didn't wire it like this just to clear it up. I just left it alone. I'm just trying to see why they got it like they do. You gotta bridge this amp. I don't know how to bridge but it seems like it isn't bridge the way its setup.

Hooked up a buddys amp and sub combo he got from a friend. It is a older Kicker 850.2 and 2 kicker CVRs. Anyways they have the subs wired positive to positive and negative to negative on the subs. On the outside they got a wire from positive to negative and then one positive from the sub to the amp positive. And the negative on the outside to negative on the amp. I don't know if this is correct or not. Don't know anything about bridging amps. I just hooked them back up the way they were. Is this the correct format for them?

You don't need to solder anything. Get some speaker wire and shred the casing off. Rap the bare wire around the outside of the decks RCAs. Then find a near by screw on the deck and attach it there.

Sounds more like a RCA issue where you have to ground the rcas to the deck. Used to do that with my kenwood. When I switched tracks it would thump.

I bought this. Used every bit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Ga-GAUGE-ROLL-50-BRAND-NEW-PREMIUM-SPEAKER-WIRE-/370391508682?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563d0de6ca

That method doesn't work half the time.

You still need to learn how to gain your amp. The gain is not a volume knob.

I meant the ground location. And the volt meter on the dash is not accurate. A aftermarket voltmeter to the rear battery would be ideal.

DId you sand the paint away from it?

So you upgraded in power and are wondering why your stuff shuts off? Lol. Take a picture of the ground location you choose and how did you gain the amp? By ear? Max? Guessing?

No wonder you have issues. You got the gain maxed out. The gain is not a volume knob. What are your head unit settings? You need to properly set the gains with a scope or DD-1.

So you have the gains maxed out? ???

Some headunits don't have a LPF so it can only work with some HU.

Well before you go and start throwing money at stuff. You need to learn what not to do. Bass boost should almost never be used unless you got a scope or dd-1. The gain is not a volume knob. You don't keep turning it and the louder it gets. I doubt your type rs will last that much longer with the gains that high.

Don't get upset. You clearly asked if you use the negative or positive terminal of the battery for the power. Did not say anything about shopping for terminals.

Yeah it's held on with clips. Checked ondemand.

Looks like .5

Why don't you try the amp in a different setting before shipping it off. Get a DMM and check for voltage. Take a jumper wire from the remote to the positive of the amp. And see if it turns on.

It will be fine.