fli_noize

Ok that was the plan, we have more than enough wire. So done like that I could ground the front battery to the frame and hook up the alternator straight to the front battery and then wire the battery bank in parallel with the front battery. Or would it be better to have a separate run of 0 gauge power from the alternator for the front battery and the battery bank?

We are about to start wiring up my friend's 1990 Chevy Caprice. We have a Mechman 250 amp alternator a D2700 and 2 D3100 that are going to be running 2 hifonics Brutus 2600's 2 hifonics 1000.2 2 Channels and a 400 watt rms 4 channel for the tweeters. My question is what's the best way to wire all of the batteries together with the alternator? We plan on having the 2700 under the hood and the 2 3100's in the back. So in terms of runs of power and ground what should we be doing? We have a ground in the front of the car bolted through the frame from our previous build, as well as a ground bolted to the frame in the rear. Thanks in advance.

Lamborghini, Audi and Bentley are made by VW

I need to know the size of the box that Fi ships its 15" Q subwoofer in so I can calculate shipping costs. Basically I had a subwoofer shipped to the US because I was there for a couple of weeks, there was a hold up and it didn't get there before I came back home. So now it's sitting there at my cousin's house and I need to calculate shipping but need the dimensions of the box it ships in. Thanks in advance

Nice clean and simple "looking" build. Everything looks smooth and in perfect place.

$250 Shipped for the pair?

x2 once you get used to the Mac, you will never want a PC again. And as someone else on here stated you can run a program called parallels and simultaneously run windows and your OSX and even drag and drop files between them. I want to know about this touch screen interface you are going to use, I've been eying the mac mini for my ride since we got the new ones in our store to put in my ride because I love my macbook pro

Does your SS have the Onstar Button and a Bose stereo? The SS probably has all the options. You probably will need to get a radio replacement module to keep certain things in your car operating. A lot of the stuff is computer controlled, like the accessory output that turns your radio on and off. Go into Best Buy, or any reputable stereo shop and ask for a radio replacement module and tell them what car it's for. Or you could google it and order one off the internet.

I would definitely use the kicker. Better built product and you already have it, why not use it.. The more reserve power the better, that amp wont even get warm or break half a sweat running that setup.

I would definitely use the kicker. Better built product and you already have it, why not use it.. The more reserve power the better, that amp wont even get warm or break half a sweat running that setup.

Thank you.

nobody has any info on this topic? I did a bit more research and I believe the first wire in the harness which is the 12volt should be hooked up directly to the battery it's charging (XS Power D3100) and I was wondering if I could jump the second wire in the harness to the second wire on the stock alternator which is the ignition? And do I HAVE to hook up a light, resistor or volt meter to the 3rd wire? Or do I only need the power and ignition?

I wired up a system in my boy's 1990 Chevy Caprice last night. We are running a separate Mechman 250 amp alternator to a XS Power D3100 which is powering everything for the audio. My issue is when I piggy back the power and ignition leads from the stock alternator, over to the secondary alternator, the alternator puts out 17+ volts at idle, even 18. That's too much for the battery and the amps and I can't figure out what its doing that. To humor myself i completely disconnected the wires from the second alt and with the car on it read like 14.6 or so volts at idle which seems normal. So my question is, is nothing supposed to be hooked up to the secondary alternator in a set up like this to make it charge or anything?

I like where your going with this. Nice little touch mounting the subwoofer trim rings on the back side of the subs to frame the magnets..I like the little stuff..I'll be tuned in, I love the trunk builds..hopefully soon I'll get mad enough to tear mine apart and do it the way I want to.

Yah it is going to be hooked up to a 1000/1

Interesting..then i guess i could do one big port firing towards the back..i have some serious math to do to properly calculate this port. Thanks

That's what I was thinking because that seemed tiny to me for a vented enclosure, but I know JL likes to do their own weird shit all the time like 3 ohm voice coils..lol

I'm going to build a box for a single JL Audio 12W7 in my friends Chrysler 300. When I went on the JL Audio website the box dimensions are so small. 1.75 cubes with a 1.75 wide port? Has anybody had any bad experiences with building the box a bit bigger?

I'm going to be starting a build shortly for my boys 1990 Chevy box Caprice. We are going to be using 4 Kicker CVX 12's. I'm trying to decide if i want to build the box with the subs facing up and one huge port firing against the trunk wall. Or have the woofers facing the trunk wall and i guess porting it up. I'm just trying to figure out how I want to configure it. I want opinions on what everyone feels will be louder. The dimensions I'm working with are 55" across, 20" Deep and 16" height.

Glad to have helped get this one solved. I was beginning to take it personal. LoL

Off topic but I just saw your signature, is there a build log for your ride? I'm seriously thinking of doing one of those ported through the armrest boxes in my ride and wonder how it sounds or what things you have to consider

Any other help you need beyond that, let me know. I'm a certified installer with access to the DEI database (they make viper along with a million other brands) and access to wiring diagrams etc for pretty much any vehicle and I've installed a lot of them.