lanman31337

I do, waiting for imageshack to cooperate...

Yes sir I do. That was all pre-wet sanding, and one post. That was with the cell phone, but you can totally see it crystal clear, and of course the flops.

Doing it myself. It's going to be cheaper that way, and of course, DIY FUCK YEAH!. I have to replace the bumper and do some repairs on the 1/4 panel.

You could run a maxx-link to match gains.

Someone side swiped my car Sunday night, called insurance and an adjuster will be out tomorrow. I have HOK Kameleon red/blue on the car. Has anyone successfully blended it it and made it look good? Big overlap? Intercoat mixed with it? If you haven't had luck, let me know.

See now you're talking my language. If the inputs and outputs are identical, same fets, maybe one uses thin windings and another uses thicker windings, maybe different amounts and voltage/values of caps, they're still the same amp.

I'm glad you chimed in, and no, I'm not being sarcastic at all. I'll start with the regulation. Again, this is from what I've been told, but the Opti maxes out at mid 15 volts, where as the XXX has no problems with it. The opti would have to be 1 1/2 times the size it is now (it's actually in a smaller case than the xxx) to be able to have voltage regulating circuitry for high amperage. As for tests, I would like to see some real tests. For both systems.

That's the spirit!!!

Well, for starters, did you know Audiobahn has an Opti 4000d / xxx6500d clone? Same board, same goodies. Second, the Audiopipe amp in question does put out some good power, and very reasonably priced. They are both made overseas btw, the Lanzar and the AP.

I was a little skeptical getting the new opti 4 channel, and it's done me real well. I couldn't be happier with it. One pro would be space - the Opti will use up less space, and one less wire run than the AP amps.

Opti 6000d is the same as the soundstream xxx10000, but with a regulated power supply. The Soundstream will do more power than the opti at higher voltages.

There's a guy running one on FloridaSPL, at 15.6 volts it's pushing 6800 watt rms, and TheDukey42 on ROE tested one.

Since my subs are dual 2's, I can run them parallel/series for a final resistance of 2 ohms for a pair, x 2 pairs. Or I can run them each parallel at 1 ohms resistance, one sub per "channel" you could say for the audiopipes. The Opti6000d, even though it's no longer the Zed build that I grew up with and loved, still puts out more than rated power.

I need help choosing amp(s). The Opti will run me around a grand, the Audiopipes around 700ish. Opti has been proven, and the Audiopipes come pretty damn close to rated.

Looks like a multi-channeled line driver.

I shaved my handles and lock on my sunfire. I used Fusor to hold the filler plates onto the area where the lock and handle were. Well, it's been holding now for 3+ years, no signs of cracking.

You're running 500 watts rms now. Big 3 will do you wonders. Even without an extra battery, you'll be good with the big 3.

If you notice most entry cables for houses are aluminum. If you go with the equivalent aluminum, you must increase the size (diameter) of the wire than you would for copper. The reason aluminum is used is because it's more cost-efficient to run the aluminum.

If you're going to run a big system and plan on spending money on amps and speakers, your're going to also need to plan money to have ample electrical for everything.

That single bazooka tube i showed you will be small enough to hide places, give him tons of trunk room, and give it a little bit of extra bass. Plus it's 130 shipped to his door.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=21270 They're great for a little bottom end most definitely.

You just got Booned!

If it does have the vent, it's to help cool the coils.

Try taking it to the ground spot on the negative amp terminal, see what that does.