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fox_racin4

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Everything posted by fox_racin4

  1. How much are the subs moving when they make the noise? I know the SA8s are pretty tough They do t bottom out either the tripple joint hits the motor befor the coil hits the back plate
  2. port noise...somehow ports 5 1/2" round and i get port noise with a single 12 ahahah theres also a 3/8" hole on side that needs to get sealed up this is just something i threw togeather in 5 min for some beat
  3. dailyed it like that for about 2 weeks... still works gets hot quick if playing full tilt sounds decent box has port noise tho
  4. pfttt lol wont be wiring to .4 dont wanna blow anything up.. allthough i have a few things in the works atm..
  5. StreetB guys... Crazyy what they can do on limited power Id say im pretty experianced, just neve had an amp that could "handle" that low of a load
  6. i know they will handle .7 no problem even on music but i can wire to 1.3 or .4 strapped dont plan to play music threw it just a quick burp or 2
  7. has any one burped their saz4500s strapped at .4? only for a burp, not music slowly rolling into it i know its very low just want to try and see what kind of number i can get but.. dont want to blow anything!
  8. Update! 200f of 1/0 welding wire will be getting put in this weekedn and i had some issues with the old wire After i get it all wired up i plan on a few more batts then a tad more power!
  9. If your numbers are correct, now do the math for price. lol is the hugly added cost for the 0/1 beneficial to gain a whole 25 sq mm?? ummm NOPE! However, depending on the brand 0/1 wire the poster would be using would make a huge difference since some brand wires like stinger tsunami has less wire/more casing compared to something like Knukonceptz fleks, Kicker hyperflex, RF wiring, or XS Power wiring (which are considered over sized 0/1, but still sell for the same price per foot retail) and see if the extra few hundred for 10 runs of tinned ofc 0/1 is worth it VS a 3/0 welding cable that is pure ofc copper with no tinning. Unless you have 1500 amps( five 300amp alternators, assuming you use 5 runs for positive and 5 runs for negative) worth of alternators under your hood. 10 runs of 0/1 wire is not practical when you will never be able to use the wire anywhere near its full potential amperage load, while spending more money for more wire, and having to run all the extra wire.. So again assuming 10 runs of 0/1 are being used as 5 runs of positive, and 5 runs of negative equaling 10 total runs (at least Id hope that is the way he is thinking, otherwise making it even more wasteful to not upgrade the grounding). 5 runs of 0/1 wire is capable of 300 amps of current (maybe a bit more depending on brand wire). 5 X 300 = 1500 + amps of current on the high side and again, the other 5 runs being used for negative. 3 runs of 3/0 wire is capable of well over 500 amps (closer to 600 amps of current), but we will lose the low side being 500amps per run of 3/0 just to give the 5 runs of 0/1 a fighting chance.. 3 X 500 = 1500+ amps of current on the extremely underrated side, 1800+ amps of current on the high side. Also the cost of the wire will most likely be a lot cheaper because it is not branded car audio wire and have a huge inflation price due to the brand name. It will be quicker to install due to having less runs, and less of a inconvenience trying to find room for 10 full runs (if it its ran underneath). As I said way above, the brand of the 0/1 wire your thinking about plays a huge role. EDIT: Now if you are driving a Honda CRX and its a burp only car for Street A or B, then your best off getting as many equal length runs of wire as possible since your are limited to 1 800 cubic inch battery underneath the hood, and the car must not be running when you are competing in the lanes. but otherwise I dont see the benefits of 10 runs at all, unless your giving the wire for free. From what i got out of that...lol 10 1/0 runs should be more then enough for 900a of alt power? Lol I bought 200f of 1/0 welding cavle got it for $2.10 a foot.. Pretty good deal pure copper
  10. It is all ran on pass side into the bed, just running new wire now so tryin to figure out which is best
  11. Everything is in the bed Right at the front, then from batts to the amps
  12. 6 runs of 3/0 vs 10 runs of 1/0 Which is better? Power is 2 saz4500s 900a of alt and 5+ batts Daily system as well needing to buy wire and not sure which way to go
  13. its decafs version of bassballin which is slowed somewhere in the lowwww 30s
  14. to me this means its wired in parallel which will make it 1 ohm.... probly have a broken tinsel somewhere
  15. maybe its set in the ohm area and you cant see it..... if it was in the AC voltage it probly would read 0
  16. best score to date is a 153.5 sealed on the dash 44hz and a 155.5 "outlaw" forget what hz still lots to do.. i want to lengthen port and pull out my port plugs then add more power..
  17. Didnt you make a topic asking why your sub made some funny noises while it was playing
  18. Have you not had problems with that sub for a while? A bent former like you said ^^^ will cause a noise like you were having before
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