fox_racin4

Update! 200f of 1/0 welding wire will be getting put in this weekedn and i had some issues with the old wire After i get it all wired up i plan on a few more batts then a tad more power!

If your numbers are correct, now do the math for price. lol is the hugly added cost for the 0/1 beneficial to gain a whole 25 sq mm?? ummm NOPE! However, depending on the brand 0/1 wire the poster would be using would make a huge difference since some brand wires like stinger tsunami has less wire/more casing compared to something like Knukonceptz fleks, Kicker hyperflex, RF wiring, or XS Power wiring (which are considered over sized 0/1, but still sell for the same price per foot retail) and see if the extra few hundred for 10 runs of tinned ofc 0/1 is worth it VS a 3/0 welding cable that is pure ofc copper with no tinning. Unless you have 1500 amps( five 300amp alternators, assuming you use 5 runs for positive and 5 runs for negative) worth of alternators under your hood. 10 runs of 0/1 wire is not practical when you will never be able to use the wire anywhere near its full potential amperage load, while spending more money for more wire, and having to run all the extra wire.. So again assuming 10 runs of 0/1 are being used as 5 runs of positive, and 5 runs of negative equaling 10 total runs (at least Id hope that is the way he is thinking, otherwise making it even more wasteful to not upgrade the grounding). 5 runs of 0/1 wire is capable of 300 amps of current (maybe a bit more depending on brand wire). 5 X 300 = 1500 + amps of current on the high side and again, the other 5 runs being used for negative. 3 runs of 3/0 wire is capable of well over 500 amps (closer to 600 amps of current), but we will lose the low side being 500amps per run of 3/0 just to give the 5 runs of 0/1 a fighting chance.. 3 X 500 = 1500+ amps of current on the extremely underrated side, 1800+ amps of current on the high side. Also the cost of the wire will most likely be a lot cheaper because it is not branded car audio wire and have a huge inflation price due to the brand name. It will be quicker to install due to having less runs, and less of a inconvenience trying to find room for 10 full runs (if it its ran underneath). As I said way above, the brand of the 0/1 wire your thinking about plays a huge role. EDIT: Now if you are driving a Honda CRX and its a burp only car for Street A or B, then your best off getting as many equal length runs of wire as possible since your are limited to 1 800 cubic inch battery underneath the hood, and the car must not be running when you are competing in the lanes. but otherwise I dont see the benefits of 10 runs at all, unless your giving the wire for free. From what i got out of that...lol 10 1/0 runs should be more then enough for 900a of alt power? Lol I bought 200f of 1/0 welding cavle got it for $2.10 a foot.. Pretty good deal pure copper

It is all ran on pass side into the bed, just running new wire now so tryin to figure out which is best

Everything is in the bed Right at the front, then from batts to the amps

Will be OFC probly welding cable

6 runs of 3/0 vs 10 runs of 1/0 Which is better? Power is 2 saz4500s 900a of alt and 5+ batts Daily system as well needing to buy wire and not sure which way to go

its decafs version of bassballin which is slowed somewhere in the lowwww 30s

to me this means its wired in parallel which will make it 1 ohm.... probly have a broken tinsel somewhere

maybe its set in the ohm area and you cant see it..... if it was in the AC voltage it probly would read 0

best score to date is a 153.5 sealed on the dash 44hz and a 155.5 "outlaw" forget what hz still lots to do.. i want to lengthen port and pull out my port plugs then add more power..

this isnt enough anymore.. its a pretty bad addiction lol

I started with 6... Now i have 12 lol

No love!?!

beat me to it... lol

Didnt you make a topic asking why your sub made some funny noises while it was playing

Have you not had problems with that sub for a while? A bent former like you said ^^^ will cause a noise like you were having before

Soo how are you wiring 2 amps..

With your electrical i would run one amp.. I ran an aq3500.1 With 425a alt and 3g31 batts an i had a decent amount of drop.. Mid 13s But was wired at .5

Id get a second alt and another battery or 2 Wht amp is it? Can never have to much electrical..

that was my first big set up in my first car ( got the car for 250$ put maybe 100 max into it to get it to be safetied and on the road! ) i started with just 2 10" type rs on 3k then 4 10" type rs on 3k then the 4 dc lv3 10s on 3k then 6k never meterd it but it was retarded and that was back when i was first getting into the audio scean, if only i knew what i know now back then!!!!

lil something for inspiration 1994 cab 4 10" level 3s with level 4 coils and extra spider on 1500rms daily was loud and got stupid low!

I assume you have a pioneer HU I have a pioneer as well an it doesnt distort till you have everything cranked ( bass bass boost and loud)

Wired wrong Ive done it myself. Ran all coils septatly to outside of the box and i messed one up and had te same issue your having. Unhook subs from the amp, seperate each coil ( no coils conected) then "pop" test each coil individually ( make sure you conect pos to pos neg to neg on your "lugs" so you can make sure none are labaled wring) If its all wired corectly when you pop test them the sub should go out I hope that makes sence When i Pop test my subs i just use a 12v battery and quickly touch the leads to battery

Audiopipe 3k Saz2500 Aq2200

Righttttttt...