JZeFF

I have two 1500d's.. i have been under the impression since the day i bought them that they were the V2's, not the V1's. They do have internal fusing like the v1's, but they also have SAZ1500d painted on 2 corners like the v2. The v1 only had SAZ1500d painted on one corner from what i have found. Which amps do i have? lol

If you look at his newer videos he added another two 12" subs... The are each in separate enclosures, basically all screwed together... At least he built all the boxes... (Or so he says) He deff has a grasp on what hes doing, he just comes across as a Jock

This guy does a good job at sounding like he knows what hes talking about, lol. And the completely random "i just got an email from EXO, but..." haha...

well i have been told otherwize like i said, they are .5 ohm stable. im going to wire the sub to .5 ohms. well i have been told otherwize like i said, they are .5 ohm stable. im going to wire the sub to .5 ohms. Listen to who you want, I am telling you that the amp is NOT .5 ohm stable and running it at .5 ohm will VOID your warranty. If you have to ask the question, then I highly recommend that you DO NOT do it. If you doubt what I am saying, I am a DC Rep and know these products very well. I have the experience and knowledge to do what you are wanting to do, but that does not mean that I can recommend that anyone else do the same. When I wire my amps lower than recommended, I am doing so at my own risk. You would have to be pretty dumb to not believe an actual DC sales rep... actually, just wire it to .5ohms... the 2k would make a pretty coffee table.

i just want to throw this out there... Running amps down to 1ohm is a fairly "new" thing to do... It generates a crazy amount of heat and demands way more from your electrical as apposed to running at say, 4 ohms... Running at .5ohms is something that has become more acceptable by the newcomers because they see other (more experienced) people doing it. What most of the new guys dont realize is that running at .5ohms requires a crazy amount of amperage, and generates a crazy amount of heat. About 2 years ago .5ohms was acceptable only for spl burps... now people think its normal to run that low.. The people who run multiple large amps at low ohm loads have more than 2 alts, and anywhere from 8-20 large batteries... Running two 3000w amps at half an ohm each off stock electrical is a TERRIBLE idea.... Your voltage drop has to be crazy, and i guarantee you your system/car is drawing waaaay more amps than your alternator is producing. Wire your ohm load up until you get batteries and an alt... and if your not going to do that, turn your gains down... like waaaaay down. Im running two saz1500's with a stock 140amp alt, and two xs power 2700's.. and i still get voltage drop... I cant immagine running twice the power with stock electrical.. I know you said its like a sport to you, but if your not more careful it will turn into a VERY expensive and frustrating sport. Not having the electrical to back up your amps WILL kill your amps, and you dont want that to happen.

How would you accomplish that if the sealed portion is on the opposite side of his port? Well open up the box, i mean if he ever planed to swap subs or the sub he has blew then he would have to open up the box some how by the looks of it... he did not ever plan on opening the box up... lol Its seamless.

nice man, but i would REALLY suggest not pounding in your driveway.... easiest way to get your stuff stolen.

Alot of people here seem to be putting you down.. I appreciate what your trying to say, but i think we would all be a little more convinced if you showed us some specs. Actual dimensions, pictures, numbers, type of vehicle etc. Give everyone some more information and they will probably (hopefully) have a more serious conversation with you! obviously working with a car as apposed to home theater is much different, very restricted. In the end, having an egg/triangle shaped box probably has its advantages... but you cant fit two 15's in an egg shaped box in a car, and for most people, quantity is all thats going to matter. Look up thorshammer, i think you would appreciate what he has been able to do out of a trunk. however, alot of what he does comes down to an enclosure well suited for his car, and high amounts of power

just dont go out in a lighting storm and you're fine! And if you end up making a 0awg necklace like suggested, avoid any rain... lol

why? haha its not hard to make the changes, but if im better off keeping it the other way i will. i just want to know your logic behind it

You really think the KNU rca's would be considered cheap? they seem like good quality, just a little tight. I am always pretty careful, thats why i was surprised. I will have to do that, they always seemed tight but i never thought it would be an issue.

Cutting it down to 9 width gives me 4.81 ft^2 as apposed to 4.70 ft^2 Also cuts the tuning down to 34.57 from 36.67 Think its worth losing port area to gain 1/10th of a foot and lowering the tuning?

Yaah, i will probably end up needing to do this. Thankfully i dont plan on selling the amp anytime soon, so putting it back in when i pull the rca should be no big deal. I honestly might ditch the Knu RCA's though... Can you recommend a decent brand to replace them with?

okayyy.. so i think this is going to end up being what i do. seriously, lol.

The thing I see tablets being good for is when educational publishers start selling full digital copies.

This!, i will try this, thanks! How can i get the female p[art to stay in the amp once i get it out?

okay, good to know. I wasnt trying to bash, just trying to fix it, haha. So, how can i fix it?

if you can think of some way to get the tuning lower and stil be within acceptable ranges i would love you, haha. Its being powered by two sundown 1500's strapped. So about 3k, but i have always taken it easy on it, not trying to destroy the sub. External port can be anywhere from 8=14

This gives the best idea of what im doing... the port NEEDS to shoot out of the box at the point that it does so that it lines up with the rear deck. You can see from the circle on the 2 baffles where the sub will be going. The 2 rectangles in the baffles is just because the port is external. is there any MAJOR problems with this design? obviously i would like to get the sub further away from the port opening, but its just not going to happen. i end up with 96"^2 port area, 21"^2 port area per foot. And a tuning of 38 hz.

edit, wrong thread.. my bad

im assuming having a tuning of like 38hz isnt going to kill my low end too bad? I tend to listen to rap, but honestly, i have never been a fan of the super low notes (like waddle by gorilla zoe, etc)

Thanks bud, that's exactly the kind of answer i was looking for. Just wanted to make sure i was on the right track before i start building the port.

How did you fix it?

I was removing my RCA cables from my DC 175.4. When i went to plug them back in i noticed one of the female metal part from the amp was stuck inside of the male part of the rca cable... I was able to just push it back into the amp when i found out how it lined up, but im nervous about trying to pull that metal piece out... Its stuck in there pretty good and last thing i want is to bend it. These are the RCA cables i have: pretty normal i would think http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KARSS4.6M If i manage to get the metal part out, how can i get it to stay where it belongs, on the amplifier?

the only reason i need a larger port is because of my car, its hard to explain... I actually may have solved my own problem though: Here is the screen shot Ther depth and width are so odd because i already built the bottom and sides of the box and it came out 1/8th of an inch bigger than it was supposed to, haha.