regizzle

OH HAIIIIIIIIIIII. Car: 1996 Chevy tahoe Equipment: Alternator: Mechman 250 amp alt (14.2v Setpoint) Optima Red Top 2x Optima yellow tops (yet to buy) Speakers: 1 18" DC Audio Level 4 2x T3 Audio t6c 6.5"s Massive Audio CT1 Tweeters Wiring: KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable 2 Channel 1/2M Twisted Pair RCA Cable KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable 2 Channel 6M Twisted Pair RCA Cable KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable 4 Channel 6M Twisted Pair RCA Cable KnuKonceptz KCAKable 1/0 red and black KnuKonceptz Karma SS 16 Gauge Speaker Wire - 100 Feet Streetwires Ultra Flow 8 Gauge (for subwoofer) JL audio 4 gauge (for high and mid amps i had laying around) Amplifiers: Autotek MM2000.1D (old school version) Concept-50.4 (have two but second has rca's Stuck in slots..) Radio and Eq: Pioneer Deh-350 Candence CEQ-773 Box Material: 2x MDF 4'x8' Plys. Lots of screws 4x 1"x48" dowel rods. TAPE. 4x steel bolts + washers + nuts 2x 6" Precision Ports Box specs: 6cu tuned to 35hz. Lots and lots of pictures to come along with exact specs for my box for those who have the same woofer or similar woofers with same displacement etc and want to recreate the box on their own terms. Box was made via my uncles CNC Machine and automated wood cutting machines for precision cuts. (considering doing work for anyone who is looking to have wood cut and assembled for a box. intricate cuts are possible.) more to come

Put that shit on your roof bro. It'll be so chill.

bant Trololol

ttt

ttt

Well if singer falls through, ill hold out for a dc power alt or mechman to come onto the market. ATM, the napa alt i bought with money from my moms to replace my modded piece of shit isnt doing so well lol. And i think my red top is about to go caput. Need to check the voltage its sitting at tho. pulled my door panel off yesterday and discovered my father had never changed the speakers.... Pretty much a broken sponge for a speaker that i've had this whole time... Anywho, i decided to leave the door panel off and as i was leaving to go out yesterday (on my birthday of all days) i saw my trucks lights on. Turns out the push in on the side of my dash to signify whether the lights should be on or off when the door was open or closed wasnt getting PUSHED IN. lol good 14 hours of cabin lights left my red top strugging to turn on the truck. decided not to go out but today i went to the grocery stroe and low and behold, i was sitting at round 12.6 volts at stop lights jumping up to 13.8~ when i would raise engine RPM. so im not sure if the battery just wasnt charging or whatever else had happened but i've had it on a 2amp trickle all day so hopefully that gets resolved. tonight. TL;DR = FML.

Just emailed him (cant call him lol) see what he can do for me tomorrow i hope.

Ive heard of singer alternators but actually forgot them when i was considering my options. gonna give em a call tomorrow.

tried, No1 has responded yet :| would really like to get my system going. and im only going to be running less than 2000-2500 rms (including the 4 chan amp) Currently Autotek mm2000.1d (2006) jensen 100.4 cuz i had it laying around lol.

Pretty balls :< waiting for someone to post up a dc power 270 for like.. 250-280 so i can snatch that shit real quick >_<

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK-PC-NEW-CHEVY-GMC-HIGH-OUTPUT-ALTERNATOR-200-AMP-/360325134537?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e50d38c9 Guy has a shitload of positive feedback. can i trust the numbers? Already been fucked out of an alternator prior Have a $150 dollar investment in my shed rotting away that if someone would like to take a look at and fix, that would be greatly appreciated Side note, bought a 220 amp kit from springhillautoelectric with a 46mm pully. shit put out nothing at idle or was broken when installed. all internal pieces switched minus rotor which is probably the problem?

i prefer direct fit to the cs130d pin.

I need a HO alt in the 180-270 amp range.

@raytard The 0 gauge is from knuconceptz. its a package for 60 of CAA i believe and the alternator is http://www.springhillautoelectric.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=71

I would love to spend the $$ but being the jobless college student that i am... its pretty fucking hard to come by money . (cant find a job in the area of computers to save my life)

i would buy an hifonics brz1700 but my alternator is a piece of shit. i would need $280 for a 220 amp alternator. $270 for the amp. $60 for the 0 gauge wiring kit. $20 For the big 3 Upgrade. I have $150 atm... + $100 next week... and another $300 at some other point in time once the mother fucker that owes me pays up. Not to mention i still need to build a new ported box so i would need MDF screws polyfill carpeting and glue...regardless, Still wont be enough to aquire all my needs. Why is it so hard to create a system you would be happy with =/

im poor as fuck sailor moon, what do you feel would be a reliable 0.5 amp... Cuz my audiobahn has been running .5 ohm for... about 4 months now, and it goes into protect after 2+ hours of HARD listening. but comes back on everyday after it cools down.

Fixed my post ray gave a clearer explanation you gave me the generic explanation that mind fucked me every time i was given it.

@raytard FUCK your right.... fuck my asshole and call me billy mays! DEAR WATSON. YOU JUST CLEARED MY BRAIN OF CONSTANT ANGER. you sir, are a god. Next thing to clarify The TXi1508 capable of running .5 ? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_26361_Hifonics+TXi+1508D+R-B.html?utm_source=dailydeal&utm_medium=sonic&utm_campaign=dailydeal

bump my rump

@raytard (silly name btw) i understand if i wired in parallel i will receive 0.5 ohm which is why i said seperately. Now as i was saying. The box i bought the subs in currently has them wired SEPARATE. AS if i had 2 12s each in its own box. Now for the amplifier, The amp is a monoblock but i have 2 leads coming out of it. By "LEADS" i mean 2 pairs of 14 gauge wire.

Yes, but as i said. I have 2 subs. If i wire them SEPERATE (thus will achieve 1 ohm) What are the negatives?

I've asked this question to myself 340302320 times. twice on the forums, and googled 300 times. Now. I have 2x L7 12s @ 2ohm. If i were to wire them each seperately(AS EVERY SITE SHOWS) i will recieve a 1 ohm load. What is the negatives of running a 2ohm sub at 1 ohm to a 1 ohm stable amplifier. Website one http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp?submitted=true&woofer_qty=1&woofer_imp=3# Website two http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=22#results now they will be in the same box but instead of both subs going out to one + and -. The mono block has 2 sets of + and - wires in the one channel available and spreads out from there. ALSO, http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_26361_Hifonics+TXi+1508D+R-B.html?utm_source=dailydeal&utm_medium=sonic&utm_campaign=dailydeal Any Negatives? Is this 1500rms Certified or should i expect 1200 or so at 1 ohm. Please clear my mind In addition, I have a 100amp Alternator. Pretty fucking weak when i turn the bass up as of right now and I'm pumping like 600RMS in total through a 4 gauge wire. As of now my current AMP isn't 1 ohm stable (Audiobahn 8000t) and puts out 400RMS at 2 ohm so i assume like 600 at 1 ohm though not stable (probably wrong). Could power be draining because it cannot harness the power correctly? Please respond with Productive answers so i can clear my mind of confusion ▲ ▲ ▲ Cheers

not long but deep.